Gary Lewis

Good find, Jim. Although 7 of them seems an odd number to sell. Anyway, I was wondering what the torque spec is on them and found the following in the factory shop manual. But that doesn't list those bolts, unless I'm missing something. However, on line I'm finding that a 7/16-14 G5 would normally be torqued to 50 lb-ft, and a G8 to 70. So, are they torquing them past that?

Good point. Perhaps the timing was set up using a slipped balancer. And now it has slipped more? But that wouldn't explain why it ran well initially and has now deteriorated. I like the distributor gear theory.

If you are consistently losing ignition modules you may either have the wrong coil or a wiring problem.

I've not put a 2100 on a 300 six, so can't help with that. But see if this helps on the vacuum lines: Documentation/Underhood/Vacuum Systems.

Wow. That is amazing! That you can floor it and it takes that long to react. I don't think either fuel or spark would do that. The only thing that might is timing. And the fact that you can't find your timing marks seems to say that the timing chain has jumped. I would pull the passenger-side valve cover, find TDC on #1, and see if both valves are closed. I'm guessing that they won't be.

I don't know of anyone specializing in the C6, anywhere. I'm not saying there aren't any, but I just don't know of any. And most of the places that do significant transmission rebuilds usually have you remove and re-install the transmission. So I think you'll just have to find a local transmission shop and have them do all of the work for you.

Got the Flexzilla hose in and installed. It held fine and the compressor kicked off at 200 psi like it was supposed to. But I have a small leak that I need to sort out. It appears to be where the safety/popoff valve screws into the manifold. I may get to work on that tomorrow morning, but a friend is coming over so we can drill ninety six 5 3/4" long holes in 6" long 2x2's. (He's making menorahs for Bible camp.) Not sure quite when we will start, but I might get to work on it before he comes. Anyway, here's what it looks like now. Oh yes, the copper tubing is hot where it goes into the cooler. So hot you don't want to hold your hand on it. But at the exit of the cooler you can hold you hand on it easily.

Which manual transmission section are you trying to get to? I seem to be able to get to them, but maybe I'm not looking at the right one? I get there this way:

It should be wired like this, which shows the secondary connected to the high side of the primary.

I guess so. Don't remember what the spec's are. But you've been reading them, right?

Good luck, but a new coil can't be that expensive and would be one more thing that you are pretty sure isn't bad.

I should have said that I've seen several failed coils. But all of those had a failure in the primary, not the secondary. That's a new one for me.

Yipes! You apparently have a spark inside the coil from the secondary to ground, which should be the case. So part of your energy is being consumed in the coil itself and only some left over for the plugs.

Thanks, David. Just trying to make sure there are no problems with anything I do. Sure don't want to have any failures on our trips.

Thanks for finding that Gary. I guess I could use it to pack the bearings. Just more difficult to get out of the tube then a tub. Welcome. I didn't know for sure so thought I'd read up on it. Then I found the video and thought I should share it. But I agree with you on the wheel bearings. I have a bearing packer that uses a grease gun, but prefer to do it by hand from a tub of synthetic wheel bearing grease.

While waiting on the new Flexzilla hose to come in I received the new Four Seasons 74612 heater control valve from Amazon. This is the correct one as it is normally open and closes with vacuum. It took me maybe 30 minutes to install it as I already had a shut off valve there. But here 'tis with a view from the front. I used a 3/16" x 3 tee and 3/16" vacuum line. The factory fitting that normally goes on the recirculate vacuum motor goes onto the tee perfectly and the vacuum lines then run out to the recirc motor and the shut off valve. And here's a shot before I put the wiring back down in place, and then a shot with the wiring:

Ahh! My bad. So, what size is the bolt? Maybe I can find it via size instead of the number.

I'm confused? The snippet above says the bolt is 304743, but there is no mention of that bolt in the whole of the text side of the MPC. Instead, the snippet below of PL # 185 seems to say it is 355765, but it only takes 4 of them. Is that the right part? What is the size of the bolts in question?

Well, looks like we might need more info. This suggests that there was a change at serial # F10,001. Do we know which it is? It is "after", right? Because it is a bolt and washer.

Good question, Jim! But someone please remind me, exactly what axle is this? I ask because, as you can see from the application list, there are several different parts lists. As for "what's up", I don't know. Didn't think we had anything that needed to be on these trucks.

I think you may have either a DS-II module problem or a problem with the pickup in the coil. If you have a salvage around pick up a blue-grommet module, and preferably one from Motorcraft. Swap that in and see if it changes anything.

Yes, your reply is more accurate than mine. It is the permanent deformation that is the issue that makes TTY bolts useful only one time.

I wouldn't think that having 17 and 48 reversed would cause a problem as long as nothing is plugged into the STI. But if there is something plugged in then it might cause problems. I'd fix it were I you. And there is a table at the back of each section of the EVTM. Here's the one from the section that includes most of what we've been talking about:

TTY means torque to yield. In it you are torquing a bolt to a point where it stretches slightly, and then it should never be reused.

Sorry, I don't know anything about what springs to use. Hopefully someone else will reply.