Gary Lewis

Thanks, I will try moving it around some more. I picked up some more grease today. According to this, that grease should be good for both wheel bearings and chassis lubrication:

Doesn't really matter in 1980, they were all choked out. But the ad says V8, and being an F350, I'm thinking 335 series. Yes, it should be a 335. Might be a 351M though as I think the 400 was an option.

I had a brand new DS-II module go bad when I fired Big Blue's engine up for the first time last year. Got it to run for the needed 20+ minutes to break in the cam, but it wouldn't rev past a certain RPM so I just babied it. It ran, but horribly, so once it was broken in I swapped out the box and the engine ran fine.

I think you have a ground on the Tan/Light Green wire. In the Page 60, below, you can see that power goes to the fuel pump relay via the Red wire at ZZ. Then on Page 103 it comes into the fuel pump relay and then goes out on the Tan/Light Green wire via YY. And on Page 62 it comes in to the computer, the ECA, on the T/LG wire. The ECA is supposed to ground the T/LG wire when you turn the key on, and I think it is supposed to take the ground away after a few seconds unless the engine starts. But if you have a ground on that wire the relay will stay engaged and the pump will continue to run. I would pull the relay to see that it does stop at that point. If so I'd find the ground, which may be in the self-test connector or its wiring.

Obviously you have a problem with 3 and 7. BUT, that doesn't explain the way it is running. I've seen engines with far lower compression run nicely at idle and rev in neutral like there was nothing wrong. And if the fuel filter is full and you have the same symptoms with two different carbs then it probably isn't the carb. But it could be bad gas. Do you have a way to run it off new gas in a gas can? Or it could be ignition, or the lack thereof. Have you checked for a strong blue or white spark? And did you ever figure out what the timing is doing? Last, once you figure out why it won't run at the moment, you might want to do a leak-down test to figure out what is wrong with 3 & 7. However, given how much the compression came up with oil I suspect that you'll find the rings are leaking into the sump.

If the ignition module is failing it can do weird things. Sometimes they just turn off. Others won't rev above a certain RPM. Just wonky. So if it is different with one module than the other it is surely the module. How are you going to use the heat sink? You have a DS-II module, right?

Yeah, it sounds like you are way short of fuel. But that doesn't explain the lack of vacuum showing. However, you obviously have some vacuum or it wouldn't run at all, so maybe the vacuum line didn't get connected after the carb swap? Or got knocked off?

Nice truck, but w/o A/C it 4wd it wouldn't be what I'm looking for. (Wait! I'm NOT looking!) Wonder what engine it has?

I think with this last truck you've taken the "road less taken" if not "the road not taken". So while I like Jim's approach of seeing what offers you get, I guess my thinking is that the last truck you have more sweat equity. Or am I just not remembering the journey for the other truck? But I know what you mean about not wanting to just polish one. So I fully understand the itch to get another project, which usually means selling an existing one. And if it is six of one and half a dozen of another to you, but one brings more money for the next project, go for it.

You are right, those hoses aren't going to be torn loose without a major catastrophe. So I'm not worried about that. More from the possibility of a leak. I want to try the EFI clamps that I have before changing. But if it takes the other style clamp then I'll do it.

Good job! Slowly finishing the thing up, right?

Good catch on the brakes and the bearing. Fix it all when you are in there. And I'm with Jim, I don't think the bolts need to be replaced. But where did you read that?

Congrat's!!! Glad it made the trip, and that's decent MPG. In my experience there are always little things to sort out after a lot of work, so I'm not surprised that you have some minor issues. Maybe the idle speed is too low, causing it to try to die at each stop?

You are now on the map.

I'll wait for Part 2 and see how to put them together. Thanks!

Yes, that was once a nice truck, although I don't care for taxi cab yellow. Shame it is in that condition. But there might be some good parts, although $700 is a lot to pay for them. I'd have thought more like $400.

That cleaned up nicely. And I agree, lube the king pins and see how they are. But you might try lubing them with the support for the truck in a couple of different positions. You want to make sure you get all of the water out, and the pressure on the king pin from the weight of the truck or just the suspension on it will cause it to be hard against the knuckle in some positions. So change the support and grease it again to make sure all of the water gets pushed out with the grease.

Jim - You are probably right, the copper tubing and the fitting in the compressor are likely 10mm. But I think the 3/8" ferrule is going to hold in the 10mm fitting. It looked to be a good fit when I checked it and tightened up nicely. So I want to give it a chance, meaning I need to get the hose fittings to hold so I can see if I have any other leaks. Which leads me to the hose. For whatever reason this old HF hose was a good fit on the hose barbs at one spot in its run, but where I cut into it for the connections to the tank it was way too large. Almost like it was 3/8" hose on 1/4" fittings, but not quite that bad. I'm guessing that is because it has been used and abused a bunch, and probably has been driven over several times. So I ordered a Flexzilla Pro Air Hose, 3/8 in. x 50 ft. It has the field-repairable ends you guys recommended previously, so I'll use a section of it to replace the old HF hose and put that end back on. Should be a good hose to have in the truck given the light weight and ability to coil nicely. Which leads me to the clamps. I sure hope the EFI clamps will do the trick. I have 6 barbed connections, one on each end of the runs from: cooler to tank; tank to manifold; manifold to high pressure switch. I have new stainless EFI clamps for each of those connections. But are these the kind of clamps you were talking about: Oetiker Zinc-Plated Steel Hose Clamp, Double Ear. (That's not the size, but I'm just trying to make sure I know what you are talking about.) That's actually the type of clamp that HF had on the manifold to high pressure switch hose, so apparently will hold at that pressure. It would be a shame to have to go to that 'cause they aren't "field repairable". But are they better for high pressure?

Two steps forward and one back is still progress, right? The short story is that the old hose that I used is larger in the middle than 3/8" and blew off the fitting on the test run. So I have to buy new hose and replace the old stuff. The long story begins with the re-bending of the copper tubing. I reused the tubing that came with the compressor and got it shaped pretty much how I wanted it, but then discovered that the new fitting wouldn't fit. Nor would other 3/8" compression fittings. Turns out that the old tubing measures .395" OD instead of .375". And that's just enough so it won't go into the 3/8" fitting nor will a 3/8" ferrule fit over it. After calling around I found some new copper tubing and bought 2' of it as well as a new 3/8" NPT/90/3/8" compression fitting. When I got the old compression fitting out of the head of the compressor I discovered that it has metric threads on it. So I reused it and hope that the .020" difference won't cause problems with the copper tubing and new ferrule. Here's a shot of the new copper tubing in place: Then I plumbed everything else up, put the covers on the compressor (not easily done), and took a pic: Next I pulled the tank and put the new fittings in it, put it back under the truck, and connected up the hoses. That's when I discovered that the hoses are somehow larger than 3/8" in the middle where I cut them from, and are a very loose fit on the barbs. Anyway, here's the pic: But I tightened the FI hose clamps down tightly, turned the inverter on, and then the compressor on. I kind of expected something to blow and sure enough, when we hit 150 psi the input hose to the tank blew off the tank. So it is time for new hose. I'm hoping I can use a connector between the old and new hose and use the old hose to pull the new hose into place.

Thanks, I will do some test fitting after I get the new bearing and file very carefully. I really can't see how it sits now because the inner bearing is on the inside of the old rotor. I will consider replacing that pump. For now I will try to keep the cap off when I am moving it around parked. I don't know that you should remove the cap. You may have an even bigger mess. I haven't tried it, but I fear it'll push out even more fluid, and w/o the cap it can do that quickly.

Okay, I will file it down. So that sharp lip you have heard about before? It is normal? I have the jack stand right behind the steering knuckle on the suspension arm. But there is no direct pressure on the steering part. Is that good enough or do I need to move the jack stand to the frame behind the wheel. If you look though the pictures above you may be able to see where it is resting better. Does the power steering only normally puke when the engine is off? Will the cap pop off when I am going down the road? Or does does the level rise because it is not running? It isn't unusual to have that lip. So take it off, but don't file the shoulder that the bearing sits on. And make sure the bearing goes on snugly. All the weight should be off the suspension to get the best flow of grease on the kink pins, so I'd move the jack stand to the frame - either now or later. And the C-II pumps do that if you turn the wheels side/side with the engine off. The cap won't come off while driving.

I used what was in my gun. It was green. I think it came with it so it is probably Multi-Purpose SD Polyurea Grease from John Deere. Some water came out when I did it and I just kept pumping to flush everything out. I forgot the sharp lip. You can dress it down with a small file so it won't cut the seal as it goes on. Glad you got the water out, but you do have all of the weight off of the suspension, right? That's what I remember of supposedly the best way to get the grease all of the way around the king pin. As for the power steering system puking, welcome to the world of Ford's C-II pump. All of the C-II's do that. Another reason for a Saginaw.

I think you are peeling several layers of an onion, but that piece of plastic looks like a problem.

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