Gary Lewis

Yippee!

Ok, folks. Nabble thinks they've fixed it and I can now post from my iPhone X. Please check it out and see that you can reply and start new threads w/o getting an Error 500. You don't have to post the new thread, just play like it and see if you get an error.

The sister of the original owner (her brother) said that he was single all his life and lived with his mother. His mother bought him the truck brand new. I asked her what he used the truck for and she said he would take scrap to the yard and go buy cigarettes. When I bought it, he was no longer able to drive and the truck was parked a couple of years ago. I asked why all of the white paint and she said she didn't know. He is probably 60 years old right now by my estimation, I was not able to meet him. But she did say that he was "disabled". I've been rubbing the white paint off (painfully) and it is mint, original paint underneath. My father suffered from dementia or somesuch, and did bizarre things. So I could see someone painting with white paint thinking he was doing something special.

You'se guys are hilarious! I see that you can post, but what device did you use to post? That's the key.

Bill - I think the email through the system works, but you can no longer post by email.

Not bad, but might be a bit expensive at $4200.

Well, that guy must be smoking something 'cause if it isn't working you can't post.

Thanks for letting me know, Dane. Everyone, please let me know what isn't working.

Well, I just THOUGHT it was fixed. Turns out I wasn't seeing the problem 'cause I'm using a Windows machine, but if I try my iPhone X the problem rears its ugly head. I've reported it. Sorry folks!

Well, that's a bummer! I can't post from my iPhone X, but can from Windows.

Testing, testing, testing...

I'm a fan of the darker blue. But either way it'll look good.

I'm just checking to see if I can create a new topic since Jonathan reported he can't.

Jonathan - I can see that it would be easy for mud and other debris to build up behind flares, which is why I asked the question. I already have rust going on in/under the body putty that is in there, so sure don't want to exacerbate that situation. As for looks, I'm torn. I think these would look good, but don't know:

Looks good! Well done! So now you have one key that fits the doors, ignition, and spare tire lock? Not bad at all for $50. And good job on straightening that bolt. But I'm surprised that the acetone didn't eat right through that plastic bin.

They had a car show in Tulsa yesterday and on the news they said the turnout was the best they've ever seen. As you said, people have had plenty of time to work on them so they are getting them out to drive - and show. And you are right, trucks don't seem to be plentiful at the shows. The show last weekend 10 miles away was called Hogs & Hot Rods. Yesterday's show was Heros & Hot Rods. Doesn't seem like they want a truck. But, in September we'll have nothing but trucks to make up for it!

Well, the cooler came in today. Boy, is it cute! But man, making the connections 'tween the components gets complex and 'spensive! Here's where I am: Compressor to Cooler, which is 3/8" copper compression to 6AN, but with a 90 degree at the cooler: Ebay has a X183 3/8" Tube To Female -6 AN 90° Adapter w/ Brass Ferrule Black Compression which I think is exactly what I need. However, the advert says "tubing" and I don't know if that is plastic or copper or??? So I sent the seller an email. But I think for $12.44 it is it. EDIT: He replied "It will work for either", so I ordered it. Estimated delivery by the 28th. Cooler to Tank, which is 6AN to 3/8" hose barb and then 3/8" hose barb to 1/2" NPT with a 90: Amazon has a nice 6AN to 3/8" hose barb, oddly enough from Derale the manufacturer of the cooler, and that is due in by the 30th. And they have a 3/8" Barb to 1/2" NPT Male with a 90, which is due in on the 21st. Tank To Manifold, which is 1/4" NPT to 3/8" hose barb with a 90, and then 3/8" hose barb to an as yet unknown NPT on the manifold. Amazon has a 3/8" Hose to 1/4" Male NPT that is to be here on the 29th, and I plan to figure out tomorrow what the NPT size is on the manifold. Edit: It takes another 1/4" NPT to 3/8" hose barb with a 90 to go into the manifold, so I ordered another of them and it'll be in on the 29th with the first one. Manifold to Switch, which is unknown at this point. Again, I hope to figure this out tomorrow. Edit: The hose barbs are 1/4" so I ordered a Heavy- Duty Rubber Air Whip Hose Swivel & Rotate Ball Fitting 1/4" and it is to be in on the 24th. Hose: I discovered that I have ~50' of 3/8" air hose with a 600 psi rating spare, so will use it to make the connections from the cooler to the tank and from the tank to the manifold as well as to make up the hose to go in the truck. Hose Clamps: I'm going with EFI clamps and since the 3/8" hose I have measures .63"/16mm OD I ordered this set of Glarks 50Pcs 7-18mm Stainless Steel Mini Fuel Injection Hose Clamps. So tomorrow, after church and a Father's Day lunch, I plan to check out what size the unknown fittings are. And I'll start working on how to mount the cooler so that it gets as much of the air coming out of the compressor as is possible.

I don't think it was here. I just searched the forum for "fuel" and "Belden" and the only hit was this thread. Sorry.

Cool! I'm hearing that car shows are getting far more participants than they ever have in the past. But I'll bet you win a few categories.

That's great news! Yes, a vacuum leak could cause all sorts of problems. One way to find vacuum leaks is with the "smoke test" or, as David phrased it, Vacuum leak detection - effective and inexpensive.

Happy to help. Good luck!

Thanks, Dane. That was the intent 'cause these springs can put up a really serious rattle going down the road, so others may want to know how to silence them. But, I don't know for sure that I've been successful as I've not driven it. Hopefully I can soon and let y'all know.

The AOD is apparently an ok transmission if is everything is "right". But if anything is "wrong" then you have problems. Hopefully your new tranny will fix the problems. As for the A/C system, a lot of people have had fits finding exactly the right hoses, so having them made is a reasonable approach. Anyway, it sounds like you are making progress. Please keep us updated.

I saw the post looking for a fuel rail. I don't have one, but hope you can find one. As for the head gasket, if you find that you have a blown one then I would do a leak-down test before pulling the heads. A leak-down test can determine if you have bad valves, and if you do you'll want to have them fixed while the heads are off. A leak-down test will also tell you how bad the rings are, which helps you understand how much money you want to sink into the engine. In other words, if you have several bad valves and the rings are leaking profusely they do you really want to just put a new head gasket on it?

Your signature helps me help you, bunches. Thanks. And for pics, there's some info in Bullnose Forum/Forum FAQ's about that. If you look at the snippet below of Ford's Master Parts Catalog from our page on Brakes you can see that there are two F250's. One is what I call the F250 LD since the other is what Ford called the F250 HD. The LD didn't have a full floating rear axle and was more like a 5/8 than a 3/4 ton truck. But yours has to be the HD version because they didn't put either the 460 or the diesel in the LD. So I've highlighted that you have 12 x 3" brakes.