Gary Lewis

You are motivating! And it is a small world. Meeting the previous owner is cool and may pay dividends when you need to know what was done.

Wow! 250 amps! That's quite some punch. Must have a serious transformer in it. Well done, Bill!

Yippee!!! That is great progress! I'll bet the thing will run once you get the o-ring replaced. If so, you have one layer peeled.

Bob - You are making great progress. That brass bushing should work fine for quite a while. But when you need to replace it you might want to get some Oilite bushings. The sintered bronze holds lubricant in the pores so lasts longer than brass itself. As for the choke, your copper tubing should last a long time and make a huge difference on the chole.

Man, that thing is really looking sharp!

How he can check for a short is to unplug the harness completely for that circuit then check the circuit to ground and then check the circuit to positive with it completely disconnected and isolated it should show up NA or OL. If there is any reading then it is confirmed shorted to either ground or voltage. Its a fairly basic test us technicans do at work to isolate circuits and verify a short to ground or power. Lets say the wire is from connector 1 to connector 3. You unplug connector 1 and unplug connector 3. You then probe the wire at connector one and at connector three check resistance. Then remove one of the probes and touch it to chassis ground or negative battery cable (battery should be disconnected for any resistance tests) if you get a reading with the wire isolated it is shorted to ground. Do the same thing to the positive cable, if any reading then its shorted to power. Once you confirm this you can unwrap that leg of wire and find the short. It is quite possible the reading he is getting is "normal" in a sense and may not be an actual short. Its also quite possible the short isnt in the wire itself but is in the ECM itself internally which you wouldnt know unless you unplug the circuit to isolate it from everything else. Axe - Rusty is right, your readings look normal, but you really aren't testing correctly. Try the way he suggested - test to ground, which seems to be the problem you were having. Having said that, I don't think your problem is in that harness. I think it is in the one going to the computer. And you don't want to be testing with the computer plugged into the harness. So I suggest you unplug the computer and then test the wire that is supposed to go to pin 58. You should see nothing when testing to ground or to power. I think you may find that it shows low resistance to ground. Rusty - I think he's already tested with another computer and gotten the same results, so it must not be the computer.

I need some help, folks. My 2004 or newer SuperDuty springs, installed rear-end forward with a reverse shackle kit, clang on bumps if not "restrained", and I'd like a good and permanent solution - which is where you come in 'cause I haven't found one. In the pic below, which is the current situation, you can see four things: Gap: The red arrow points to a gap between the springs because the lower spring wraps loosely around the upper spring such that the gap continues up on top between the two springs. And w/o some restraint the lower spring is free to slap into the upper spring at its eye, making a whole bunch of noise on bumps. Nylon Pad: The green arrow points out the nylon pads that came from the factory to allow the springs to move with respect to each other w/o making noise. Those pads were worn to nothing when I got the springs, but even replacing them did little to nothing to reduce the noise. Spring Liner: The yellow arrow points to some spring liner material that I had left over from Dad's truck. I put it in with an industrial spray adhesive, but even it doesn't quieten the noise as the noise appears to come from the ends of the springs banging together. Restraints: The blue arrow points to homemade restraints, aka hose clamps, that made a big difference in the noise. However, 268 miles of corrugated gravel road loosened them up enough that some of the noise came back. I probably got more than a full turn on the screws on all four of the clamps (2/side) after the trip, so . So I'm looking for a better approach. I've done a lot of reading and I've found TSB 99-16-3, but that only applies to 1999 & 2000 SuperDuty trucks, and even then it addresses a squeak and not a clang. The fix specified in the TSB is to install kit #1C3Z-5B302-AA, and all of this as well as pics of the kit are discussed here: Squeak Squeaking Front Leaf Springs 1999 2000 Kit Insulator Repair Kit TSB 99-16-3. But I don't think that is going to solve my problem and am looking for suggestions. Stronger clamps/restraints might work, but in reality the springs are supposed to be able to move independently so that's not the best approach. A rubber isolator just the right shape that would fill the gap? Was there something there from the factory on the SuperDuty trucks? Or, maybe with that to the rear there's always pressure to keep things from clanging? http://www.garysgaragemahal.com/uploads/6/5/8/7/65879365/thinking-26_orig.jpg Help! http://www.garysgaragemahal.com/uploads/6/5/8/7/65879365/waving_orig.gif

Assuming you have gauges and not idiot lights then your truck should be wired for the tach.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/124560005933?fits=Year%3A1985%7CMake%3AFord&hash=item1d005adb2d:g:CZMAAOSwewJgHJSv https://www.ebay.com/itm/144003185787?hash=item2187423c7b:g:MwAAAOSwcUZf~IQ0 https://www.ebay.com/itm/402888105458?fits=Year%3A1985%7CMake%3AFord&hash=item5dce009df2:g:ntQAAOSwoUtgtRRw Thanks, David. You proved the point, they are expensive! And mine is in better shape than some of those.

Welcome, Jamie! Glad you joined. And thanks for those kind words. But it certainly isn't all me. As you said, we are a community, and that's what makes this place tick. Jim is right, we love projects and especially family projects. Hope you'll start a thread, or threads, on Harriett. And show us some pics! Would you like to be on our map, which is at Bullnose Forum/Member's Map in the menu? Just give us a city or zip and we'll add you.

Right. And even if the flex circuit is a different color you can swap some pins around in the connector on the truck and make it work. IIRC the difference is where the turn signals and bright headlight bulbs are. Over on FTE Paul/Rogue_Wulff explained how to do that and I can find the post if needed.

"To flesh this out..." Wouldn't that be "To de-flesh this..."? I mean, you are removing the truck's flesh. Anyway, good to know. My paint/body man did that on Dad's truck when he put the new bedsides on. He explained it to me at the time, but seeing the carnage now drives home how important that is.

Since I just had it Line-X’d I don’t want to be drilling on that part of the bed. But I am looking for ways to get the gunk out from below, inc drilling holes. At some point the wheel arches will have to be replaced. But not now. I want to use the truck, which inevitably means more scars.

Please let me know what the wire colors are. I'm curious what else is in that connector.

Thanks, Bill. The EVTM, which we got from some nice old guy, only specifies three wires in it but says it has four pins. If there is a fourth wire I'd be curious what it is - but I guess you no longer have the harness.

Wow! That is really looking good! And I like the name. Reminds me of your native country. And it is fitting as the truck is demonstrating the Pygmalion effect - you have high expectations and it is living up to them. (Did it drop it's h'atches?)

Yes, .6 ohm is almost a dead short. Zero ohms would be a dead short, but I'll bet if you touch the leads of your DVM together it only comes down to .2 or .1 ohms. In that case you are seeing the resistance of the leads - or a meter that hasn't been zeroed. Your truck may well be like many others - an onion you'll have to peel and cry, peel and cry. But eventually you'll have enough for a mess of onion rings! Seriously, you will need to sort out that wiring. It is ok for the wire to be the wrong color as long as it goes from the right place to the right place(s) and nowhere else. So get the injector wiring sorted and then, once the engine will run, work on the next layer of the onion.

I hope they have their own lubrication. But I'll give them some more at John's suggestion. By the way, I think I'm going to be installing a vacuum-operated heater shutoff valve teed into the Recirculate line. I've noticed that the A/C isn't getting all that cold now that I've opened up the manual shutoff valve I have installed - which I had to do 'cause the A/C was too cold. So as things heat up this summer I'll bet I'll need to install the valve and have really cold air on Max A/C. And, speaking of coolant, I had to add a bit to the recovery reservoir today after our trip. But I see signs of the reservoir having leaked as there are dried coolant marks all around it, so I'm guessing that the lid isn't sealed tightly on this one and the terribly rough roads had it splashing out. May have to replace that reservoir - assuming new ones are sealed. Or, can the lids be taken off and resealed? Also related to that reservoir, the washer part doesn't work. It did before I relocated it, so I need to check that out as we had opportunity to use it on the last trip. Teething problems!

Yes, it DOES look nice! Well done! Btw, Mecum is here in Tulsa this weekend. I'm not going.

The .6 is basically a dead short to ground. The 30 is probably the resistance of the coil in the injector. Well, looking at the EVTM there is a Dark Green/White wire on pin 30 of the EEC and it goes to a diode, as shown below in the lower left. That is called the Neutral Drive Switch. Does it look like someone has hacked your wiring and connected 30 to 58? If so, I would disconnect the hack and just have the wire from the injectors go to 58 and nowhere else.

Take it easy at the cabin and let her wait on you. As for driving the truck, Lesley sounds like Janey. She's never driven Blue, but grew up driving trucks so could. But would never drive anything bigger.

Thanks, I do hope it is just teething problems. But Pace Edwards has been great to work with. As for moving it back and forth to check the shimming, I've not tried that - yet. But once I get the end caps in I'll do a whole lot more checking. And, I'll lube it with the spray graphite that John recommended. On the wheel arches, I really thought I had them clean. But there are certain sight lines that reveal a whole lot of muck.

Yes, the wheel well design is horrible. I'm going to add some holes to be able to flush the dirt out, but you don't really have much room to drill w/o hitting the outer panel. As for the next project, that will be the air compressor and tank. As soon as I get the wheel wells cleaned and Filmed I'll start on that. The spare tire carrier is way off in the distance as EFI comes first. Overall I'm pleased with Big Blue. He ain't perfect, but he sure is stout. Next up, Ouray!

Ok guys, I guess I'll figure out what I ought to have for the jack to pick up the truck via a tire. Thanks. Now for a report on today's doings. First, the bed cover has been somewhat wonky, stopping at odd spots and making ugly noises. So today I did what the instructions said and pulled the cover on the canister that holds the rolled-up cover. Lo and behold there were bits of chewed up plastic in there. And on closer inspection they were from a destroyed end cap for the slats that make up the cover. The slats are aluminum extrusions that attach to each other to make the cover, and then there are end caps that fit into the slats that serve as the glides for going down the track and as gear teeth for the pinion in the canister to drive. But somehow one had obviously been destroyed. So I pulled the bed cover out of the tracks. WARNING! Do NOT do this! The cover is HEAVY and there are no hand holds. Man, that was a huge pain to get back in the track. But I did. However, I found two more damaged end caps. Given that I called Pace Edwards and talked to John, the tech. He said I probably have a dimension wrong on the rails and the cover got jammed and that let the pinion destroy the end cap. So he's sending me several end caps. That means the cover has to come back out of the tracks. But this time I'm going to make some kind of support for it to lay on at about the same height as the rail. Maybe a couple of 2 x 4's out the back of the truck will work. Also, I spent some time checking the truck over from the outing on the GOAT. Other than the hood latch bolts I've not found any other fasteners loose, although I do have more checking to do. However, I did find that my homemade rattle-stoppers had stretched or loosened due to all of the pounding, so I need to find the factory rubber isolators my nephew mentioned. Without something there to hold the springs together there's a tremendous clatter as you go down the road since the curved lower spring slams into the other spring on every bump. Anyone have an idea where to find them? Maybe Rock Auto? Also, I did check out the rear wheel wells, as Jim suggested. As you can see, below, the inner panel on the driver's side already is rusted away. The passenger's side isn't, but there's certainly rust showing at the lip. So I'll drill some holes on the passenger's side so the Fluid Film can get in there and do it up right. However, when you get at the right angle and look there is still a tremendous amount of dirt, gravel, and sand up in there. So the first thing to do is to spend more time with the hose. Then, when it dries out, I'll coat it with the black Fluid Film I ordered today 'cause the can I thought I'd use is empty.