Gary Lewis

Well, John, having done as Jim suggested and looked the rear wheel wells over closely there's lots more top soil that needs to come out. So I need to get the truck back out in the driveway and have another go at it with the hose. Then, when that's done and dry I'll apply the black Fluid Film I ordered today. (Turned out that the can I had was almost empty.) Anyway, I'm going to wrap up this GOAT thread with one more discovery & pic and then go back to the Transformation thread. I looked the truck over closely today, and while I haven't finished checking all of the bolts for tightness, it looks like everything is still tight. However, I did find this. One of my wires wasn't properly secured and its convolute rubbed on the front driveshaft for a large part of the trip since I had the hubs locked in. But it didn't really harm the convolute, so I tied it up out of the way - securely this time.

Bob - Glad you got the tube out, but it is a bummer about the stent. Hopefully it won't be too much discomfort nor limit your actions very much. I'll keep praying that you get through this quickly.

Looks good, Rusty. But on the balancing, did you ask for that to be done? They can do that w/o fully assembling the engine. And I agree on the paint. I wouldn't chance it.

Ok. C160 is said to be brown and have 4 pins. You can see on that schematic that it will have the red wire for circuit 361 that takes power to the injectors. And it has both the tan/orange and tan/red wires that ground 1/2 of the injectors. So I think the 4th pin in it is unused. I would find that and disconnect one side from the other - very carefully so as not to break the connectors. Then I'd use the DVM in resistance mode to see if the tan/orange wire is grounded. In other words, put one lead of the DVM into the connector and touch the pin of the tan/orange wire, and put the other lead on a good ground - like the negative terminal of the battery. You should not see any resistance, but if you do you have to find out where it is coming from. Then I'd do the same on the other side of the connector, the side that goes to the EEC. But in this case you might see some very small resistance, depending on the scale you are on, as the EEC will show some. However, what I think you'll see is a very solid ground that will be down around 1 ohm or less. That means the wire is shorted to ground somewhere.

But it worked for you?

You are now on the map. The cylinders number 1 - 4 front/rear on the passenger's side and 5 - 8 front/rear on the driver's side. So the rear-most on the driver's side is #8 and the front-most on that side is #5. And the rear-most on the left hand/passenger's side would be #4. As previously said, one bank is 1, 4, 5, & 8. And you said that 4, 5, and 8 fire continuously. I'd bet that #1 does as well but you may not have noticed. So the issue has to do with the Tan/Orange wire that goes from all four of those injectors to the EEC. In the schematic below I've circled C160. If you can find it and disconnect it you can test to see where the ground is. Oh wait, do you have a digital volt meter?

Yeah, that happens. Our joining process is broken and we are trying to fix it. Anyway, welcome! Where is home? I ask because we have a map (Bullnose Forum/Member's Map in the menu) and we could add you if we had a zip or city/state. On the injectors, I've included the pertinent schematics from the 1986 Electrical & Vacuum Troubleshooting Manual (EVTM) below. But you can find it at Documenation/Electrical/EVTM's/1986 EVTM. On the 2nd page you can see that injectors 1, 4, 5, & 8 are tied together and 2, 3, 6, & 7 are tied together on their bottom sides, the side that goes to the EEC. Your system is called "bank fire" as four injectors go at the same time. So if you have injectors firing when the key is just turned on it is important to know which ones as it is likely you have all four in one bank firing. Another thing to note is that the EEC grounds the injectors to fire them. In other words, when you turn the key on all of the injectors are given power via the EEC power relay. So if there is a short to ground in the wire going to the EEC from the injectors the injectors will fire. So if you work out which injectors are firing then you know which wire to check - Tan/Orange or Tan/Red.

Welcome to the Bullnose Forum! You may have missed the email that you were sent asking you to go to the New Members Start Here folder, read the guidelines, and then start an introductory thread there. Many people miss that message, but the intent is to give you ample opportunity to read the guidelines. That's because we hold everyone to them. So, before we launch into problem solving can you assure me you read them?

Yeah, that might take a bit different gear.

Yes, thanks Dave.

Didn't someone put an F450 master on an F250 w/o changing the calipers or rear brakes?

Yes, there are differences at the caliper, but I assumed BillyRay is going to keep the existing calipers and just add boost. However, if he is wanting to change them then that's a whole different kettle of fish.

Good to know.

Ok, try the "Comparative" calculator now. Somehow the ability to type in the cells had been turned off.

No, I didn't weld it. But I did use the orange Loctite. On the arches, when I am sure they are dry I'll hit them with some oil. Maybe Fluidfilm?

On my tailgate there are Phillips headed screws that go into studs on the trim panel. You'll find the screws on the front of the tailgate. On the speedo, I got a lot of the bouncing out of mine by lubing the cable with synthetic wheel bearing grease. I had used Teflon and graphite spray lube initially on the new cable, but the speedo had a lot of bounce to it. However, the grease did help. As for the calculator, I don't know why you can't change the tire size like you should be able to do. But I'm working on it. And you are right, larger tires require a smaller driven gear.

Dane - Yes, the panels are expensive, so I'm bummed that I messed this one up. But I hope my body/paint guy can smooth it out some. He's told me before that he is pretty going doing that, so I'll check with him at some point. And yes, uneventful trips are the goal. Ours was pretty much that way, with a few small exceptions. Jim - Let's put it this way, those bolts won't come loose again. And I did spend a lot of time flushing the wheel arches. Both with the high pressure at the car wash and then with the hose at home. And I put the hose in ahead of the liners several times, so I hope I got it out. But I already have rust there and it is coming through the body putty someone put there. So when I get it on the lift, maybe tomorrow, I'm going to take the liners loose and see what's behind them. And I might put some holes in them to make it easier to clean them next time.

I don't think we have anything about converting to power brakes. The vast majority of the trucks came with power brakes, so it is rare anyone needs to convert. But according to our page on brakes (Documentation/Driveline/Brakes) it looks like your master cylinder is probably E0TZ 2140-C and you need to go to D7TZ 2140-C. And the booster will be E0TZ 2005-A. As for the lines, I don't know. But I'd bet that you won't have to change them. Surely the fitting sizes are the same and there's usually plenty of extra line in the coil so you can move the master cylinder forward.

Eddie looks really good! Glad he's running so well.

To wrap this up, I filled the truck up and washed it today. The fill up took 23.2 gallons and we'd gone 236.2 miles for an average of 10.2 MPG. Of the 236 miles, 111 were on the highway doing from 55 to 65, so only 125 were on the trail. So assuming we got 11.5 MPG on the highway then we got 9.2 MPG on the trail portion of Tuesday. As for the wash jobs, plural, I spent quite a bit of money at the local car wash, mostly hitting it with hot water & soap at high pressure. Mud oozed from every pore. From behind all of the trim. From the wheel wells. From the bumper - especially the front but even from behind the rubber trim strip on the back. EVERYWHERE! Once I thought I was done there I brought it home and spent a couple of hours going over it in the driveway. And still got a ton of mud out. But, finally it came fairly clean. Here's sort of a before and after: However, I did find one ding we didn't have when we started. We backed into something that hit the trim panel on the tailgate. Oh well, that's why you don't "restore" a truck before taking it offroading. Then, when I thought I was all done, I tried to close the hood and it wouldn't stay latched. As it turns out, the two bolts holding the hood latch on were both loose and the latch had slid down way out of adjustment. So there are the first two of what will probably be many loose bolts I'll find as I check the truck out.

It is also longer and could not get them to I stall. I don't remember just why now but I could not use them. I also have pictures of the differences on my web site. Dave. ---- Maybe we need to document this, once and for all. Dave, can you get me the pics and point me to the measurements?

I don't think you are doing anything wrong If the tabs are in place wouldn't the pan force the gasket to conform to the engine?

There's truth to that. But I don't know what damage I'd do to the truck if I was driving when the snake came out of hiding.

Got these responses from Rock Auto on 6/7 and 6/9 respectively: For events we provide magnets and fliers to be used in goody bags or handed out to attendees. We will also include one gift certificate for a door or raffle prize. We will send you a package of goodies about a month before your show.