Gary Lewis

Everything I've read says Ford went to coil springs on the 4wd heavier trucks in 2005. Which is why my SD springs have to be 2004 or earlier. But I'm happy with what I have, so there's no chance I'm going to consider changing to coils. The ride could be better, but what I have is so much better then the leaf-sprung TTB's that it isn't funny. Still, I would like them to be quieter, and I think the clamps will do that and still let the suspension work properly.

I would pull the glove box liner, which lets you see more of the mechanism, and watch it as you move the controls. See what isn't working. And read the section in the EVTM: Documentation/EVTM/AC-Heater. It explains what is supposed to happen in each position.

Ok, I spoke with Mike of Eaton Detroit Spring. I'm sure he's the same guy I spoke with years ago when I bought the spring liner that was initially for Dad's truck, but the leftovers of which are now on those SD springs on Big Blue. I explained what I have and the noises it makes, which Mike quickly understood, and he agreed that clamps would be the best way to quieten the springs. They have them in stock, so a pair of springs and rubber pads are on their way. But, when I asked about tack welding the arms of the clamps he said "Bad, bad, bad! Your splatter will get on the spring, causing a stress riser, and the springs will break at that point some time in the future. Bending the arms will be enough."

Yeah, I'd thought of that as well, but here's the closest illustration to a 5.0L EFI cooling system, and it doesn't show that stuff either. But, they do sorta show on the 460's illustration, although the base part number is just for a connection, not anything specific to EFI. In fact, 9C789 doesn't show in the 1980 - 89 Master Parts Catalog nor the 1986 Standard And Utility Parts Catalog. Assuming the 302 takes the same ones as the 460 I see three solutions: Drive w/o the heat, which may work fine as Ford dropped it in later years Find a hose fitting that will press into the throttle body at that point and replace the smushed one - assuming the smushed one will come out of the throttle body. Replace the throttle body with one that has the proper connections

Some of you are probably getting an Error 500 when you go to a thread. Looks like what I've posted below. This looks to be because someone broke something at Nabble and I'm working to get it resolved. Sorry!

Well, you are now on the map, whether you are there yet or not.

Do you know what code of springs you have? Must be heavier than mine. As for the noise, if yours aren't as far apart as mine you shouldn't have as much noise. I'm guessing mine have 3/8" of gap, and when you hit a bump and the spring travels that far and hits it is loud. While I realize it is a truck, if there is something simple that can be done to minimize the noise I want to do it.

You've been busy! I don't have any guidance about bending the frame back out. I had to bend Big Blue's back in and that was accomplished with a whole lot of effort using a comealong, ratchet straps, chain, levers, etc. But out is a different story.

Will/Mushrat - Glad you joined. (And finally posted. ) Let's get that pic easily seen. And, where's home? We have a map (Bullnose Forum/Member's Map in the menu) and could add you with a city/state or a zip.

Bill - Thanks. Axe - I think I know the part you are talking about with the little coolant hoses, but don't see it in the illustration. Am I missing it? Also, on the part that you broke, if it is the knock sensor it is surely this one: E3AZ 12A699-A Sensor assy, (engine spark knock intensity) and it will be marked #E3AF 12A699-AA. I say that because all of the '86 5.0L engines with a knock sensor appear to have used that one. But the trucks with a C6 don't appear to have one. Your truck has the AOD, which means the gear shift lever has a OD position?

Yes, that is looking good! And I agree, getting the engine in makes it look like there's real progress happening. Keep on truckin'!

Well, you know where he teaches, right? Anyway, you are making progress. Just keep ticking those things off the list.

I take it you didn't have your morning joe before you wrote that. That's a non-issue because the 4x2 trucks don't have blocks. If he takes the blocks out, it will just be like a 4x2 truck. The bump stop will hit the axle tube. Guilty as charged.

Jim - I've not made any molds so will take your word for packing rather than pouring. And I certainly agree with you that the clamps will be easier to try, and remove for that matter, and probably less expensive as well. So I think that is the best approach. And I'm pretty sure the clamps won't have any noticeable effect on the ride as I put the hose clamps on and could tell no difference in ride, but a huge reduction in noise. In fact, even with the hose clamps loosened after the GOAT there was no difference in ride and really little, if any, difference in noise. You just need enough restraint to keep the ends from clanging together. Shaun - That pic was taken with the truck on the lift, so full droop. But obviously the clamps were on there. Without the clamps it is easy to move the end of the spring while the truck is on the lift, and you can make it clang like a bell. Apparently my springs are "factory" springs 'cause my way of getting the old tip isolator out and a new one in was exactly like the instructions from TSB 99-16-3:

Yep, I want a unicorn. In fact, I have a unicorn. How many trucks have what Big Blue has? And as far as I'm concerned that's not bad. As for "the dedicated engineers that planned these springs", I would have thought that reversing the springs would be an indication that I didn't want them to work exactly the way they were designed. Having said that, I'm trying to make it so they can work as they were designed w/o making noise. It looks to me like the "loose end", meaning the loop of the bottom spring around the eye of the top spring, was intended to allow the two springs to move fore/aft with respect to each other as the load changes. So it looks to me like there are two ways to allow the springs to work - quietly: Padding: Do something to fill the gap to ensure the springs cannot clang together. That would include pouring the gap full of something like the stuff from Smooth-on, but it would have to be the right density in order to allow the needed fore/aft movement w/o all of the up/down movement. Clamping: I don't want to clamp the two together in a way that they cannot slide, which is what the u-bolt style clamps would do. But I do want to keep the loose end from banging into the eye. So perhaps a padded clamp that will hold the two springs together closely enough that the ends can't hit while still allowing them to slide would work. I welcome your input on which way to go. Or if there's another approach that needs to be added to the list.

Excellent!!! You really solved a tough problem. Well done! On the sensor, there may be a number on it. Let me know what that is and I should be able to figure it out. Or give me the color of the wires if there is no number.

Don't you just love searching for things on the internet? For instance, searching for "padded leaf spring rebound clip" found this result: Find Deals on Leaf Spring Rebound Clip in Womens Shops on Amazon.

So far I've found 2" and 2 1/2", but I'm sure you are right about the 3" variety. And, you are right about the tightness. I don't want them so tight that they inhibit the sliding of the springs or that will stiffen the suspension. But tight enough to prevent vertical movement is what is needed. As for the rubber pads, I suspect that any rubber in there will keep them from rattling. But it'll wear out over time due to the movement of the springs. So I may need to replace them some day, but that won't be all that difficult.

I don't need to measure. Just need to think, and since I'm almost at the bottom of my 2nd cup of Joe that is starting to get easier.The spring liner was ordered for Dad's truck, which has 4wd and, therefore, 3" springs. Since the liner fit the SD springs perfectly they are 3" wide as well.So, gotta find padded 3" wide spring clamps...

How much do you want to lower it? You should have the riser blocks in there, like the ones shown below but probably 2" IIRC. I don't know if there are 1" blocks, but maybe? The only issue is that the blocks are also the bump stops.

I mean like these clamps below Gary, this is what our local spring shops sell:https://www.npdlink.com/product/clamp-leaf-spring/104805I just meant to weld them to themselves...once you bend a tab over, you could squeeze it in place with a C-clamp, and tack it in place. You'd squeeze the clamp in place anyway...and hammer the tabs over normally, but take the extra step to weld the tabs down. Yes! Those should work nicely! I've actually not seen those before. They fit the bill in many ways, including having the rubber pads and being very adjustable. The only issue is that those are for 2 1/2" springs and I think the SD springs are 3", but I'll confirm that this afternoon. (We are finishing the painting of the guest bath this afternoon, but I have to go to the shop to get the roller and pan, so can check then w/o getting caught. ) But I'm sure there are ones just like them for 3". Here's the pic to remind me of what I'm looking for. And with the spring liner where it is the clamps won't be able to go anywhere.

Cory - Thanks. The clamps were the next thing to think about. While the ones you listed would work, if tightened down they would prevent the springs from sliding with respect to each other, which I think is necessary as the load changes. And if they were left loose they'd rattle and might shift down the springs. The "spring shop rubber lined style" might be the ticket. But by "tack them in place" I assume you meant put a piece of bar across the tabs and tack that in place so they couldn't open up? I think the key is to provide enough restraint that the springs can't bang into each other but not so much that they cannot slide. And that takes just the right balance or the clamps themselves will rattle and move.

Dane - Jim is right, my complaint is the almost constant rattle that is created by the loop hitting the eye. Any little bump causes it, and washboard roads make it sound like the front end is going to fall off. But the hose clamps help a whole bunch because they limit the ability of the lower spring, which is otherwise not constrained at all, from hitting the eye. Jim - Interesting idea. Create a mold by positioning the springs, probably with a clamp around them to maximize the gap, put walls on the sides to prevent the stuff from running out, and pour the liquid in. The PMC Series looks like it would do it, and more specifically PMC 770, 780, or 790. However, I'll need to do some reading to figure out which one, and what "Shore Hardness" I need. And I'll bet the hanger would keep the cured rubber in the joint. I'm still struggling with how the "progressive" nature of the springs works. As the weight comes down on the spring does the gap at the very front get smaller? If so you wouldn't want to prevent that from happening. Thinking of another approach, what if I slid the spring liner around the curve so it took up some of the gap and then used a clamp? That way I wouldn't have the metal-to-metal clang but there would still be movement possible.

I hope the alligator clips are heavy duty!

That's a bummer! You got one cable freed up only to find the other one had been cut. To replace it you might get lucky and find one via the part number, shown below from our page at Documentation/HVAC. But more likely you'll have to go to a lawnmower shop and have them make you one. They might be able to use the old outer housing, or may just make a new one complete.