Gary Lewis

Congratulations!!!!!

Thanks. May install mine and see what it does - after the EFI. But will surely want to remove a link for off-roading.

Good thought, Matt. A huge leak, like the brake booster hose left off, might do that.

As you slowly release the pedal does it die instantly like it does in the video? If so I'd say that you either have an electrical problem where the ignition is shutting off, or the idle circuit is plugged in the carb. Is the engine warm when this happens? Maybe there's some issue with the choke being on too much or completely off? And have you tried opening up the idle mixture screw? Write down where it is before you change it, but I'd open it up a couple of turns to see if that makes a difference. Maybe it is way too lean?

Good endorsement of king pins, Bill. But did the sway bars change the ride any?

As you said, that's a very nice price even with the shipping. However, that's a mix of Light Duty & Medium Duty books. The Engine book says "Medium Duty" and those trucks had a very different set of engines than our Light Duty trucks did. What engines did they use? I don't know for sure as there may be an issue with Ford's naming conventions. I know our FSM's say "Light Duty", as does our Master Parts Catalog. But in the next notch up the MPC is called Heavy Duty and says it is for Truck Series 600/900. So is that the same trucks as the Medium Duty FSM covers? I think it is, but I'm not sure. If so, here are the engines that book covers:

Two things. First, on the Youtube there are two issues with the way you posted it. The first is that you got a link to it and not the embed code. You hit Share and then Embed and get that code. And, you then paste the code between the > and < of the code Nabble puts in when you click Embed. As for the stalling at idle, my first thought was that you still have too much fuel pressure. And while that is possible the way it dies in the video is immediate, as if you turned the key off. Not laboring, which is what I'd expect if the carb was flooding. How easily does it start after it dies at idle? Is there any chance the idle stop screw or idle solenoid was changed while the work was being done? Maybe you could turn the idle stop screw up a bit and see if it will run there?

LOL! Yes, I fully understand the need for a change of pace every once in a while. And a good day is when you've made progress w/o causing more problems. And you have a very good day.

That's not a bad price.

I like it! When can you drive it?

Thanks, Bill. That's what I was looking for. And I'm glad that was the answer as this one isn't adjustable. I think the next thing to install is the speed control unit. The cable isn't perfect but may be acceptable. And now that I know where the end is supposed to go... After that I think it is time to install the O2 sensors. And with that I think it'll be time to start into the wiring phase.

So, they just recently took it off so it is a "new takeoff"?

Interesting, Bill. I just ordered the XL3F-BA that shows to have the IAT sensor in it in the pics. For $18 it is worth it, both to find out and to have it on hand in case the one in the pics above doesn't work correctly. Oddly enough, this one says it is a "new takeoff". So, why would anyone take a new MAF off?

Ahhhh!!!!! That makes sense! Thanks, Bill. No comment about the adjustability of the TPS? It just bolts on?

Well, things are coming together. But I have some questions before I post the progress: First, I've read about adjusting the throttle position sensor (TPS) to 1.0 volts. But this Motorcraft TPS doesn't appear to be adjustable as the holes are the same size as the screws. And it is said to be the right unit. So were they not adjustable by '96? Second, how do I get the speed control cable through this bracket, which is the one that bolts on the side of the upper plenum? Somehow I appear to have gotten it off/out of the bracket but I can't figure out how to get it back on. And it goes in the squarish hole on the left. Ok, now for the progress. Here's a shot of the upper plenum with the right side bored out to the scribe mark. Turned out that the holes were not round, by any means. They are now as both sides have been bored out to the scribe marks and clear the throttle body nicely. And then I added the vacuum fittings, vacuum plugs, throttle body, IAC, TPS, etc and even put the throttle cable on. Here's a top side view, and it is starting to look like a complete engine. And here are side shots:

Well, the X3LF-BA MAF sensor from the Jag came in today. Here's a closeup for posterity. As it turns out there are apparently different X3LF-BA's as the one David found two days ago is on the left, below, and the one from the Jag as well as my F5OF are on the right. The one on the left has the inlet air temp sensor and mine doesn't. And, as you can see, that later style is way too big to fit in one of the earlier housings. So, at this point I don't know what I'm going to do. I might try the X3LF that I have and just use the IAT sensor in the air box. Or I might order in the X3LF w/an IAT sensor and the connector to make it work. Still thinking on this, but welcome your thoughts.

This should speed things up dramatically!

I'm in the middle of something at the moment, but you could take a look at Documentation/Interchange/Starter Interchange. Compare the ones for the cars you were asking about with those for the truck.

You wire it the factory way. Here's a page from the '86 EVTM (Documentation/Electrical/EVTM's/1986 EVTM in the menu) that shows how it is to be wired:

That LG/R wire is the key-on power to the alternator. It bootstraps the alternator in. (There's the difference in a 1-wire and a normal alternator.) Note that it says "Continued on Page 16". Here's Page 16: (NB: This is from the 1986 EVTM as it is showing the 2G firestarter alternator, and the '86 trucks were the only Bullnose trucks afflicted with them. And, btw, you are one of the few on here that understands "NB". )

Yes, get it fixed!

More specifically, from whence did they come? My nephew will not install a part that was supplied by Rock Auto as he's had many of them fail. Maybe they were returns? Maybe they were manufacturing rejects? I don't know, but he will NOT install a part from RA.

I differ from Dane - I have a line on the "catch can" and I expect my coolant level to be there when the engine is cold. Otherwise I have a leak somewhere. I don't worry about how much is in the radiator - although it is always about 1" down. But the catch can provides a good way to monitor the coolant level at a glance.