Gary Lewis

That is the connector to the trailer electric brake controller.

Wow! I wouldn't have thought that would have so many relays. I'm actually not adding any relays this round. I'm just cleaning things up for the most part. There is a new one - the PCM power. The fuel pump relay is moving into the PDB from the fender. And the fog and backup lights relays are also coming into the PDB from hanging on the air box bracket. The offset to the PCM relay is that the two horn relays, the factory one and the Bosch one I added with the security system, get consolidated into one in the PDB. As part of my documentation I'm going to come up with a high-level view of what I've done. Here's a back-of-the-envelope stab at it, but this was done on Paint and what I'll do for real will be in CAD. And, this one is no where near done as it doesn't have a number of things, like a distributor or ignition module - and probably several other things. But the actual one will have all of the connectors shown so people can get a high-level view of the system. And then there will be documentation for the items w/in the system. Speaking of the ignition module, where does it mount?

I like it! Almost enough relays. What's it out of? An old computer?

Yes, nice score! You got lucky.

Congrat's! But, did it work?

With the DS-II ignition and the carb circuit removed there's nothing under the hood supplied by the R/LG wire. And, as shown below, it is only those circuits that run through the resistor. The other circuits tap off before the resistor so aren't impacted. So I'm confident that the R/LG wire will work.

Yes, the resistance is there. But all that circuit is doing is pulling in the PCM relay, and that relay will pull about 250ma. So the voltage drop will be ~.3v. And since those relays pull in at about 6 volts the relay won't know the difference between 14.4 volts and 14.1 volts. The power to pins 30 and then 87 of the relay comes via the always-on power, and that comes via the #2 wire coming from the PDB on the other side of the engine compartment. So there's no shortage of power to the relay. All the R/LG wire is doing is pulling the relay in. So, why do I need other wiring? I'm not trying to be difficult, I'm just trying to understand.

Are those the sides for the console? They look great, but I'm not sure what I'm looking at since they are quite the same shape as your CAD work. (Cardboard Added Design)

Yep, Cory, that is the one. And the seller is right, it is 1980/82 only: 80/82 F100/350.U150 E0TZ 16A236-A

Forgot to look for that connector, Bill. But will do, hopefully tomorrow. However, I've come up with another question - where did you get your switched power for the red/light green switched-power wire that pulls in the PCM relay? See below for my thinking. That came up because I drew up the PDB today. Haven't as yet taken it apart and pulled the extraneous stuff out, but will start on that tomorrow. However, it came out pretty nicely, with no real surprises. And now to my question. In the schematic below you can see that C325 carries the R/LG wire which has battery voltage in Start and battery voltage minus the drop across a 1.1 ohm resistor in Run. However it is only going to pull in the relay, so we are talking about a really small voltage drop. But the beauty of this is that C325 also has the oil pressure and coolant temp circuits back to the gauges. So that one connector handles three circuits. Anyway, do you see anything wrong with that plan? Now I'm looking into getting a kit of connectors to use for the other ties between the '85 and the '96 systems...

Thanks, Bill!

Yes, that's interesting. But basically it is fighting a losing battle. It corroded out once and it'll do it again. That's why I like the electric choke cap.

Fits 1980 through at least 89, which is as far as my catalog goes.

Well, comparing your pic to the one of that starter from the DB site it looks like you are wired correctly. The terminal at about 7:00 is the pull-in for the solenoid. The one at 12:00 is the input to the solenoid, and the one at 6:00 is the output to the starter. So I'm bumfuzzled. I'm going to tag Bill to see if he has any suggestions. Bill - When this starter is wired the normal PMGR way, as soon as power is applied the fuel pump comes on. Pull the blue fuse link from the I terminal and it stops. Put the large starter wire on the output of the starter relay, along with the trigger wire, and it works correctly - save for the run-on of the starter after releasing the key, which is caused by the starter working as a generator. And, when he tests with the DVM he finds no connection between the hot terminal and the pull-in terminal on the starter. I'm lost.

They are BIG!

Dad loaned me his '72 Mustang when our Citation was in the shop for one of its many recalls. I pulled into the driveway as the needle touched E. The next morning it would not start. He said "Sorry, I forgot to tell you that." With the MeterMatch you fill it to the point you want it to show Full and hit the button to calibrate for Full. Drive it to where you want it to read in the middle of the scale, say 2/3's, and hit that button. Then maybe 1/3 and hit that button. And finally where you want it to be for Empty and calibrate there. But, you only have one "map" and both tanks read off that. Unless you buy two MeterMatches and wire them in ahead of the switch instead of after.

Update: I bought from Technoversions, and I believe they designed it. And it is $75 inc shipping. Plus there's a good writeup on how it works.

The thread Bricknose Sender to Bullnose Gauge Interface has an overall diagram awa an outline of the sketch. What hasn't been included in the sketch is reading the output of the tank selector switch and then choosing which of two different curves to use. And, speaking of the curve, it appears to use a straight line, but we need to allow an exponential curve. So the equation needs to be a bit more complex. But that's not difficult. HOWEVER, I'm running a MeterMatch. For $84 it does a pretty decent job of interfacing a Bricknose sender to Big Blue's Bullnose gauge. And while it doesn't truly allow for an exponential curve it does provide 4 points on the curve to calibrate it, so you'd have three straight lines that could approximate the curve.

Matt - It appears to be mechanically compatible as it starts the truck and apparently doesn't grind. Chris - Let's go back to the picture. Why are there three connections? And are you using the right two? I ask because I'm not familiar with starters with three connections. And this one does have a jumper, but it is wrapped back on itself - under a terminal that isn't being used. What is that terminal for? I'm guessing that you have one terminal that is ahead of the starters solenoid, one that is after the starter's solenoid, and one that triggers the starter's solenoid. If that is the case then you are probably wired correctly as if you put power to the one after the solenoid the starter would run. But maybe you can see markings?

Love it!

I'm at a loss. The findings are very confusing. If there's no feedback from the starter it suggests the starter relay is bad. But it doesn't really act that way since everything worked before you replaced the starter. So maybe replacing the relay will help?

I don't know if I kept that when I rewired. I'll look tomorrow. But it looks like the yellow wires go through the firewall and then back, with one leg going across the firewall to the relay and the other to the fuse link. I can bring both legs back across the firewall. Just one more thing to do.

Wow! That's sensitive!

Acme products are ready. RR will know soon. Was just reviewing the plan, below, and realized that I have a bit of wiring to do. The inertia switch is powered by a fuse in the PDB on the passenger's fender. So I need to run a wire across the firewall to the switch. And, before you say something, the resistance wire is already gone.

Yes, that's what happens with both connected to the same terminal as the back emf holds the starter in. How bad is it? I'm surprised that you got a click. Guess there isn't a solid connection, but something causes the pump to come in.