Gary Lewis

If we had a casting # I might be able to tell.

I don't see a connection, but there must be one or it wouldn't act that way. Put it back on but w/o the trigger wire and I'll bet it still works.

I think you are right, Cory. I was sure there wasn't any EFI, but couldn't find anything on the thermactor. But your pic is spot-on.

I have the original inertia switch on the firewall/floor near the passenger's left foot. Ok, I have a plan - a cunning one no less.

I would have recommended going back at 0 degrees. However this from Summit says advancing 4 degrees brings in torque 200 RPM sooner.

Sounds like a wild engine. As for what I got done today, not a lot. But I did get most of the extraneous stuff pared away from the harness I need to work on. (And, I pared a bit too far in a case or two, but nothing that solder and heat shrink can't cure.) The firewall connector is now gone, as are C103 and C106. The pic below shows what's left, which looks like a huge rat's nest. But it is a much smaller rat's nest than I had. We are almost down to manageable. What I need to do now is to develop some schematics of what goes where. For instance, I need a schematic for the PDB so I can wire it and remove the extraneous wires. Then I need to sort through the wires going to the ECU and pare them down to only the ones I'll be using. And then I can lay things out "geographically", meaning where they are meant to go and start grouping things together. Which brings me to an observation and, therefore, a question: And, as reported elsewhere, the $18 XL3F MAF sensor came in today, so now I have two of those. And it seems like that would be a good way to go since I have a spare and they appear to be plentiful. But, they fit the plastic housing, not the aluminum one that I powder coated, so I decided I needed to insulate that housing to keep up the theme. Here 'tis:

There you go. Line up two, or even three, of them and test away.

I think you could run two sensors in series. It might slow the flow down a bit, but it would still be the same through both of them. Do you have some of the hose you used for your first inlet system left over?

I can do w/o the integral IAT. I have the new IAT sensor awa an old one, so should be set. Use another known MAF as the reference?

Looking good! Glad you like that little crimper. Seems to work well for me. But if you are grounding to the fender, make sure the fender itself is well grounded. Many/most aren't. I added grounds like this one to ensure mine are. And I grounded the cab to the engine as well. (And plenty of other grounds.)

Got my 2nd XL3F MAF sensor in today. Boy is it clean. But, unlike the picture, it doesn't have the temp sensor in it. Yes, I could send it back but I'm going to keep it as it looks new. I think I'll use it in the plastic housing as that will give me a backup in case there's a problem with this one. Here are a couple of pics of it vs the $14 Jag takeoff, which is the dirty one. Note that parallax error is why the right one looks bigger. They are the same size.

There's something on that starter that is feeding power from the large wire into the trigger wire. So with the large wire on the always-hot terminal you then have power at all times on the large starter terminal. And since that terminal is tied to the I terminal, the pump comes on. If you need I can draw that up. To prove it, take the trigger wire off the big terminal, making sure to insulate it, and the truck should still start and run. There's a jumper somewhere between the power and trigger wire on the starter.

I think Bill is right, the green one is probably for the AIR (air injection/reaction) thermactor system to inject air into the exhaust. If so, and if it is threaded, you can plug it with a set screw, although I'd use anti-seize on the threads to seal them. But check to see where that hole goes.

Tom - If I understand which holes you mean I don't think that the threaded holes, circled in red, are for injectors. I don't know what they are for, but I suspect they are blind, meaning that they go nowhere. But you can check that out by turning the head up and filling those holes with brake cleaner or somesuch. However, the hole circled in green might be for an injector. As far as I know, gasoline injectors are not screwed in but go into a recess, like the one in green, using o-rings to seal them. But you can check that to see if that hole goes into an intake passage, and if there are 5 more of them just like that one into intake passages. If they are for injectors you can seal them with brass cups. I don't know the size, but I ran Big Blue's engine for over a year with those holes plugged with brass cups. So I'm sure we can find out what size they are. I put them in with a smear of non-hardening sealer and it worked fine.

No noise. Yesterday, the original check valve was removed and compared to the replacement provided by Gary. When blowing into the replacement valve's smaller port [engine side], the check valve prevented flow. The original one had no resistance to the same blowing. As of last night, the rapid pulsating has not happened since the replacement of the check valve. Time will tell, but I am optimistic that the problem has been solved. Glad to see that, David.

Nice truck, but $28.5K is a bunch!

No "told ya so" from me. I'm just glad you are getting it dialed in. And, I'm happy to know that there is a full-electric cap that works on these carbs. GM ran full-electric caps for years on their cars and they worked fine. Maybe not quite as well as some other approaches, but they worked. So that cap can help a lot of people who have rusted-out hot air tubing.

I'll bet you continue the process of painting as you get better at it.

Man, I really should have built the Arduino for that! I have the sketch (program) already written and tested. IIRC, it allows you to tailor the curve the whole way. Raise or lower either the Empty or Full reading. And it takes its input from the tank switch so it can tailor the curve for each tank separately. Haven't looked at it in a couple of years, but if someone wanted to pick up the cudgel and make it happen I'd happily pass on what I have.

taskswap - I agree completely. And I'm enough of an electrical engineer to fully understand what you are saying. (You can search Big Blue's thread for a discussion of ground loops, and while it isn't very detailed I certainly understand the issue - especially that of adding shielding to an input and then grounding that shielding on both ends.) However, in my case I'm trying to set up Big Blue so he can be maintained easily by my kids, and they don't understand grounds, much less loops thereof. Nor capacitors. So the ignition capacitor/condenser I'm installing will be as close to "factory" as is possible. It mounts on the coil, as shown below, but sometime along the way Ford changed from a 2-pin terminal, which was never needed as it only had 1 pin, to a 1-pin terminal. And, they changed from the round can to the slab style. So I'm changing out the connector so that style can be used on into the future - in case it is needed. IOW, I'm trying to futureproof the truck. But I'm not trying to solve any noise problems as I've not had any.

Looks like things are scattered, but here are some links: Fender and Engine Grounds Aux Battery to Frame Ground RH Fender to Cab Ground Engine to Firewall Ground But I didn't find pictures of the radiator support/fender, the aux battery/driver's fender, nor the driver's fender/cab grounds. I can take pics later today if you'd like.

Yes, some place in Big Blue’s Transformation. I’ll look them up in the morn.

I love overkill! And you have it, in spades. Here's how I did my grounds.

My air valve was still there, but it would open immediately if the secondaries opened. So you had to feather the throttle. Interesting! I did Google the MEL and found lots, inc this snipped: Interesting to see that the MEL used the FE valve arrangement while the W-blocks used the porcupine arrangement that was made famous by the 396. My 348 didn't have as much torque as that 430, but it did have a lot. I could lay the center carrier bearing on the driveshaft over at any time with a full-throttle run. And taking off from idle required no gas whatsoever - ease the clutch out in first, shift to second, and you'd idle down the street at 17 MPH. And with the 3.08 gears it cruised at 100 easily. Now, if I can just get this EFI system going properly I suspect Big Blue's 460 will become my new favorite engine. In carb'd form it ran well, but seeing what was happening to the AFR I know there was a lot of performance and efficiency (note that I didn't use the word "economy") left on the table. So I'm really looking forward to seeing the EEC-V computer doing its thing. Remind me, please, how to do data logging with Binary Editor. Or, does it not do it?

That's awful! I've got to check the ones on BB.