Gary Lewis

Well, I can't say that I enjoy the challenge, but I sure believe I'll enjoy the EFI so that makes the challenge worth it. And, I've also saved all the harnii, so I have a number of options when wiring. And I try to be careful to put the same colors back. But I didn't last round and caused myself some confusion today. I replaced the resistance wire w/a R/Y. Should have pulled some PK/BK to replace the resistance wire with, but then I'd not remember that it isn't resistance wire.

I think the 33 gallon tank makes sense. And the access to the FDM does as well. It is a PAIN to get to the top of the rear tank.

Well said, David! Here 'tis installed: And here's the new task - surgery on the harnii. I have the patients on the operating table.

So, what's the plan with the bed? Dual tanks? And why the hole in the floor?

Our son and family live in Palm Beach Gardens and we've driven down I75 through your area a few times. Glad you found a laid back feeling 'cause PBG sure doesn't have it. Here in Okiehoma we have a few Bulls running around, and even a few Dents and Bumps. But they do get noticed. People I talk to say "I've seen that truck around."

It is easy enough to try. Fill it up, slide under and pull the wire off the mid-ship tank as it is easy to get to, put the resistor in the line, and turn the key on. You can put several resistors in parallel to get the resistance you want, and to raise the wattage rating.

Yes, I think that screen is to turn the flow laminar. I'm sure glad I have it. Boy, it would be wonderful if you could do the testing. I've been trying to figure out how I could do it. I have the 600 CFM dust collector I use to pull powder out of the booth when I'm PC'ing. I'm sure it doesn't flow exactly 600 CFM, but if I had a reference I could put several MAF sensors in series. That should let me compare the several units I have, but it wouldn't let me easily vary the CFM - unless I bleed some off. But it would be fiddly and I don't really want to do it as I'd rather get this EFI system going.

Have done some reading in my new book entitled Engine Management Advanced Tuning. And I found this discussion: Looks to me like he's describing that screen in our EEC-V systems, the one that looks like this:

Yes, that's a big difference on the manifolds. Good idea to port it.

I like the idea of learning on your truck when you don't care if you make a minor mistake. Good approach for learning. And replacing the shocks is always a good idea. But dropping a tank with that much liquid in it is not fun. That slosh makes it very difficult. But creating sparks around it sounds like an even worse idea! Good luck!

LOL! RTV on the outside to stop an exhaust leak? Anyway, you are making progress. Not sure the port matching will make much difference as those engines are lethargic, but it won't hurt either.

I don't think that's quite the introduction I had hoped for when I sent you the email just now that said "So please click this link to be taken to a page in the New Members Start Here folder where you can introduce yourself and your truck." Nor was it, as requested, in the New Members Start Here folder. We don't require that people go through the introduction process, but the fact that you apparently didn't read the email makes me fear that you didn't read the guidelines either, and we do require that people adhere to them. So if you haven't, please read the guidelines. You can find them in the New Members Start Here folder. And while you are there please introduce yourself.

That makes sense, Bill. Hadn't thought that bringing the trailer brakes on with the controller wouldn't turn the brake lights on. Wonder why the EVTM doesn't show it coming back in on the LG wire? As for what I did today, I finished insulating the air box. Didn't get it installed, and I still have to cut out a spot for the IAT sensor, but here 'tis:

Bill - Two things. First, on the '96 wiring I think I see what you are saying. The trailer stop light circuits come off the multi-function switch and then go through fuses 6 & 7 and then to the trailer. So If I want I could intercept the '85 LG/O and O/LB wires near the firewall and connect them to the same color wires going to the PDB and then run the output back to the trailer connector. No need for more relays. Second, on the 1985 wiring there seems to me to be a mistake in the EVTM. Or at least something very confusing to me. The diagram above clearly says "To Trailer Brake Lamps" for the R/LG H wire. There is no reference to another page in the EVTM, so it isn't going to another circuit. But clearly that wire cannot power both brake lights and still have turn signals. Obviously those lights are driven by the LG/O and O/LB, as shown below. So, what is that R/LG wire going to?

Welcome, David and Daniel.

If you loosen those nuts you might want to re-adjust the position of the switch, We have the factory shop manual directions on the Ignition Switch tab on the page at Documentation/Electrical/Ignition.

I hang out on that "other site" in the older truck area at times (like to see what others are doing) so that is how I knew of it. That name is "Express Bed" Dave ---- Interesting. With that info I Googled it and found that Numberdummy said "F350 9' Express bed used 1953/72. There was also a 9' Express Styleside bed used on 1957/66 F350's." I hadn't heard of an "express bed". Thanks.

I don't think I've ever seen one. But then I've not been looking for one 'cause I didn't know they existed.

Bill - Thanks for the response. I had a really fancy reply almost ready to go and somehow closed the tab. So let me reply more simply: a) I don't have clearance lights so don't need that b) I have the backup light relay and could easily tie the trailer backup lights to it c) I have the Trailer Option, as shown below, which says that my trailer brake lights are protected separately from the truck's brake lights. But that makes no sense as then they wouldn't flash as turn signals. What am I missing? d) Trailer power is supplied by Fuse Link B, but I could consider replacing the fuse link with a fuse in the PDB. But, it is working now, so...

Good plan, Stan. I wasn't aware ours was closing until it was gone.

Good catch, I missed that. And I agree, #49 seems to fit best.

The 460 fuel systems are complex. I think I'd replace the in-tank pump rather than modifying the system. On the idle, it sounds like you are flooding, or at least getting really rich at idle. How long has it been since the carb was rebuilt. If either the power valve or accelerator pump is leaking you'll have way too much gas at idle. And the exhaust will stink.

I had my son pop it after I lubed it, and I used a screwdriver to simulate the hood closing. Repeated several times and added a bit more lube (ok, type F transmission fluid since it was handy, 😆 ). Gave it a try for real a time or two afterwards and it seems pretty smooth now. Lubed the hood hinges for good measure. Now that I got a good look at the belts and hoses I know what I need to buy. Either this top rad hose dates to 1986, or it was serviced with genuine parts... The hose looks old, so I think I'd replace it.

I think you meant E0TE—ATA. And that carb was used in only two parts lists: #2: M/T-exc. Calif. but doesn't say 2 or 4wd #49: As discussed. So I think you parts list is #49.