Gary Lewis

I like it. I think you'll like it when you get to drive it. Let's put it here so it is easier for people:

Rusty - Those systems sound nice, but expensive. I think I'm going to be happy with my EEC-V system, but I have a lot to learn. For instance, guys, the above talks about MAP. But I don't see anything related to MAP in the inputs to the ECU. Am I missing something? How does the ECU know the atmospheric pressure? Or manifold pressure? Or does it need to? Bill - On the connector, if the MAF sensor coming in this week has the IAT sensor built in then I'll buy the less expensive connector and do as you suggested - wire the air box-mounted IAT sensor's plug in parallel. That way I can run any of the MAF sensors. And I'll probably do that anyway as I think about it as it would give more flexibility.

Well, at least you got them working, albeit slowly. One small step for mankind.

I've had the book on the left for some time, but was just re-reading it in light of the work I'm doing on Big Blue. In it I found a recommendation to get the book on the right if you have a MAF system, so I just ordered it. One of the reviews says the book is "Ford-centric". Another says "This is only really helpful for late 90s- early 20s engines." Sounds like my kind of book.

What about driving it, changing the oil, driving it, changing the oil, etc? That might get the engine cleaned up enough you could then take it in.

Glad you got your truck running well. But one of the failure modes of an EGR valve is to stick open. So pulling the vacuum line leaves it leaking - all the time, not just when vacuum is applied. So the truck gets exhaust gas when it isn't supposed to, and runs poorly. I don't know that your problem was due to that, but it is possible.

I like that, but it is kind of pricey. I've used this flush kit for that in the past: https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-Help-47018-Hose-Flush/dp/B000COCTR6

Here it is... https://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/A-familiar-blue-bullnose-tp108533.html Well done, Cory. I was searching for "Ray" and "bought", but now I see that he said "purchased". No wonder I didn't find it.

Not the only person, as I've done it. But, your title is a bit misleading as you didn't get it full. Over time you'll find you have to keep adding coolant. (As will I 'cause I didn't get as much back in as I drained out. ) It is really hard to get these systems full. Bill's trick is to pull a heater hose off at the heater core as it is the high spot in the system.

Bill - That's excellent info. Thanks. But, doing a bit of research I found this: Motorcraft @ Amazon for $38 Michigan Motorsports @ Amazon for $13. And here are pics from those adverts. Note that the Motorcraft has 4 stars and the Motorsports has 4 1/2 stars. You see any reason not to go with the Motorsports?

I don't remember, Cory. Sorry.

Personally, 4wd F250's are a poor choice. I have one, but have modified it - a bit - to get a better ride. In fact, all but the '86 F350's 4wd trucks are in the same boat.

I'm not sure I understand the question. Do you mean front or rear suspension parts? If front, the answer is no. F250's are an odd breed. The 2wd ones have coil springs up front but the 4wd F250's use leaf springs, and save for the TTB's there's nothing that is similar to the 4wd F150's.

Yes, David, I was laying down on the job. And I did so again today. Man, I'm using the goodie out of that creeper. But I don't know how I'd do this w/o it. Today I finished up the fuel system by getting the fuel rails bolted down to the lower plenum. And I added the standoffs on top to which the wiring attaches. Then I tackled the cooling system changes that were needed. To do that I drained quite a bit of the coolant out, using a hose on that fancy petcock that Scott found. Boy, do I like that! Then I pulled the thermostat housing and thermostat off and installed the new 180F 'stat and new housing. And I moved the temp senders around so the engine coolant temp (ECT) unit is where it is supposed to be to match the wiring, the temp gauge sender is in the other hole in the lower plenum, and the aftermarket sender is now in the thermostat housing. Here's what all of that looks like now: But, it wasn't nearly as easy to do as to type. That's 'cause the aftermarket oil pressure and temp gauge tubes, the AFR meter's wiring, and the vacuum hose to the gauge were using the hole in the firewall that the ~50 wires to the ECU are going to use - the oval one in the pic below. So I had to pry that grommet out and gently fish all of that stuff back into the cab. Then I removed the grommet that the speed control hose and harness had been using from the hose and harness, and fed the afore mentioned stuff through it. And again, that wasn't nearly as easy to do as to type. But, I got it done and then fed the stuff back through the hole in the firewall where the speed control stuff had been - the one above the oval hole. And now the oil pressure gauge and coolant temp gauges are hooked up. And the vacuum line to the gauge is connected to that tee and the open hose will go to the back of the upper plenum when it is installed. And the wiring laying on the cowl is to the AFR gauge's O2 sensor, so I'll have to figure out where to install that and run the wiring to it. And, when all of the wiring that is going through the firewall is in place I'll fill the grommets with black The Right Stuff to seal them up.

David - Thank you. It is slowly coming together. More later. Bill - Thanks. I'm leaning to using the XL3F sensor that's coming in some time this week. But I don't think that sensor will fit the cast housing, so my work there might be for naught. We shall see. And if it has the IAT sensor in it I might look for the right connector and use it instead of the other one. But that's more work, so we'll see what happens. Anyway, if you find a source for the connector please let me know. Last, we'll have to have a conversation about loading MAF tables a bit farther down the road.

Bill, and others, I'd like to pick your brains on MAF sensors and get some thoughts on the best approach for me. Let me set the stage: I have a used Motorcraft F5OF sensor and aluminum housing, which are the correct ones for a '96 F250 with EEC-V. I have no idea if the sensor works, but I've blasted and PC'd the casting to better than new. I have a new Cardone 86-9524 sensor & housing that are said to be replacements for the F5OF. The sensor will fit on the Motorcraft housing that I've PC'd but the old sensor won't fit on the new housing. I have a used XL3F-12B579-BA sensor and plastic housing on the way from ebay for $14. This was used on a Jaguar but is surely a Motorcraft since Ford owned Jag. David found a "new takeoff" XL3F-12B579-BA sensor only for $18. Oddly enough, the pic below shows a profile of that sensor and the inlet air temp (IAT) sensor is clearly visible. Now, to my questions. The F5OF is rated to 541 CFM and the XL3F is rated at 582 CFM. It seems reasonable to me that I should go with the XL3F. Right? (In that case I'll return the $85 Cardone unit.) But, are all XL3F's the same? Will the IAT sensor be on the one I have coming in? If so is there an advantage to using that one - it looks like it will be more in the air stream than the one in the side of the air box. Speaking of the one I ordered, it is due to arrive between now and Friday so I'll be able to answer that question firsthand then. But I wanted to get a discussion going.

Here's a shot of the rear of an '82 fuse box on the left and of the side on the right:

Nice truck, but that's a LOT of money!

I'll take a picture in a bit of the back side of a fuse panel to show you what I'm talking about. But you do have the pull the screw(s) to get to it. As for the ground, you should be able to see it w/o pulling the radio. But you can test by pulling one of the tail light assemblies out and grounding a bulb to see if that works.

So, it was Candy Apple Red first, with a Maroon accent. Interesting. Hadn't seen it done that way 'round. And the CD4 decodes to red cloth and vinyl and a regular cab w/styleside pickup box.

Sorry, must not have copied the permalink. Try this: https://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/Big-Blue-s-Transformation-tp28014p87745.html

You have been busy. And the truck has been useful.

I installed a 3000 watt inverter in Big Blue and ran #2 wire from the aux battery to it. That size was predicated on the length of the run and the fact that the inverter can actually pull 6000 watts when starting a load. You can read about my installation here. But note that I connected to the aux battery. That way I won't strand myself in the middle of nowhere by pulling the starting battery down too far.

I'm glad you are "always around". But yes, the expertise of the group has really grown so I, too, learn by reading. So, now I understand the interest in the SROD tranny. Yes, an overdrive can definitely make a difference - both in MPG as well as a relaxed feel while on the highway. A flat on one of these trucks is no fun, especially if the spare is below the bed. But glad you had the right equipment. However, someone tried to rip the rear plate off? And didn't get the job done? Glad they didn't get it, but hope they didn't do much damage. As for the warmth, it has come back. At 6:00 AM it is 37F, which is much higher than the highs a few days ago when we weren't getting over 20F. But compared to last year we aren't doing too badly. I guess you've seen that I'm installing that EFI harness you got me a few years ago? I sure am thankful for it.

Mark! Old home week! First we have Paul/Rogue_Wulff chiming in, and now you.