Gary Lewis

I would pull the throttle cable off and see if that makes a difference. And maybe lube things with a graphite or Teflon spray. As for the hazards, there is supposed to be a second flasher on the front side of the fuse block. That's the hazards flasher, and if it isn't there you won't have hazards. On the rear lights, that sounds like a ground problem. All of the rear lights on an '86 ground via a wire that comes into the cab and goes under a screw on the firewall ahead of the radio. Check that ground. And/or provide a ground to the tail light setup temporarily to see if that fixes it.

My son is a lawyer and not a gear head. My daughter is a to-be nurse and - not a gear head. Neither will be able to fix anything, but they'll be able to take it somewhere to be fixed. And around here we have general mechanics who have scan tools, things that say the O2 sensor is weak or the engine coolant temp sensor has failed. Those are the kinds of failures I'm expecting the OBD-II port to tell the mechanic about.

Been there, done that, smelled like a camp fire! Was taking my wife for a ride in my "new" 82 a few years ago. Nice sunny day with temps in the 30's, but we needed a bit of heat. Smelled someone burning leaves and then we realized there wasn't anyone w/in miles of us. So yes, welcome to the club. Pull the resistor pack as there are obviously leaves around, if not in, it. And pull the kick panels 'cause there will be debris in there that traps moisture and rusts things out.

Wow! You've done a lot of peeling, but have plenty more to do. However, I think you misunderstand the certification label. There are two different places on the certification label that indicate colors. The first, shown below as "Exterior Paint Colors 2K" is for the exterior colors only. So yours shows 2K and 2L, which is Candy Apple Red and Maroon, in that order. Both are exterior colors. But I'll bet it was 2L and 2K, in that order, as the first one is the primary and the second the accent. So the base color would be Maroon and then the top of the cab would have been Candy Apple Red. But interior colors are designated by "Body", and in the example that is AB4. Go to Documentation/Specifications/Body Codes to decipher that.

Probably the most expensive too. To quote Bill, Bob Allen Ford = "HIGH BUCK".

The SEM color codes are here: Documentation/Specifications/Interior Paint. But as you'll see, no one carries the correct colors. The paint has to be mixed. I don't know if your company does that, but if not I recommend Vinyl Pro, and the link to their site is on that page.

The EGR is the issue. But you say it isn't connected? By that I assume you mean there's no vacuum to it? If that is the case it can still be leaking exhaust gas into the intake. EGR valves are known to stick and leak. So to take it out completely you have to fashion a block off plate. And I think that is the Echlin DS-II module that is known to work, but I'll let others who would know better speak to that.

This is what your firewall looks like if you remove the big black heater/AC box.(Credit NC Dave for the pic!) The tall vertical rectangular opening that is farthest to the left is how the leaves, dirt, debris get inside. The dirt travels along the cowl trough in front of the windshield, then falls down the passenger side and gets sucked into the hole, which by the way is right in front of your blower fan. That cavity is deeper than the hole in the firewall, so there's a lot of room in there for dirt to collect and build up. As Gary mentioned above, if you pull the passenger side interior kick panel you can get in there with a shop vac and clean it out. You might have to stir up the Potpurri of leaves with a screwdriver to get everything loosened up. At the bottom of that cavity is a rubber "duck bill" drain for the water (rain). Good idea to make sure it's clear and free as well...you should be able to pour water in there and it will run out from behind the fender. They do get plugged up after 40 years;). Here's the location of the "duck bill": Well done, Cory!

Floors and console? Looking good!

Assuming the problem is with the EFI, which is all a scanner plugged into the OBD-II port would tell you about, then it won't be custom. It'll be a 1996 CA-spec 460, and the codes will be stock Ford ones, so that will tell the tech what the problem is.

Yes, it is odd to think a "cheap Chinese" carb can solve a problem. But it really can as several others have had success with them. However, if you have the right one...

Looking good, Matt!

https://www.rearcounter.com/E3TZ-9N176-B-parts90614.html Yep, that's one of them. Thanks, David.

I think that's a big help, Cory.

Well, for much of today this was my position. And w/o that Topside Creeper it would have been a HUGE pain. Literally. And that led to what you see below. However, lest you miss a few points, let me 'splain what the picture represents. First, the rubber fuel lines that connected the Nylon lines to the regulators are gone and the factory pigtails that connect the fuel rails to the Nylon fuel lines are in place. However, that in and of itself was a bit of a battle as the rubber hoses were held to the back of the engine via a plate I'd made that was secured by the upper left transmission bolt. But the way the hoses ran down the back of the transmission made it really difficult to get to that bolt from below, even with the lift, so I took it out from above. And then I installed the pigtails from above, and they are also held by that same bolt. And under the truck I then connected the pigtails to the Nylon lines. And the injectors are in. But in order to ensure they'd seal well I spent a looooong time with Q-Tips and lacquer thinner cleaning the bungs in the lower plenum. I'd put the brass plugs in with PTFE so it wouldn't set up hard, but even then there was a lot of cleanup. I probably used two dozen Q-Tips, and again it would not have been easy, and maybe not possible, w/o the creeper as that puts your face right down at the level of the bungs so you can see into them. But I'm not quite done. The rear hold-down stud isn't in as it doesn't quite line up. I think the supply pigtail is pushing the fuel rail left in the picture, so I have a bit of "alignment" to do tomorrow. But the other three studs are in and snug, so we just need a bit of "persuasion" as my father would have said.

Amen! If not anti-sieze, some kind of sealer. I use PTFE.

You are doing a wonderful thing! That story REALLY speaks to me. I'm 74 so can appreciate your father's love of his truck. And, you are now on the map.

I don't doubt it at all. I've seen you solve mysteries quickly. Like when Eli said he couldn't hook up the vacuum advance or the engine would die. You said "The insulation is falling off the pickup in the distributor." Sure enough, it was and it shorted out when the vacuum moved it.

Do you work in Bristow now?

Wow! Where'd you move to?

Glad you are back - hopefully to stay. Was just thinking recently of the day you met me down there in Chieftan country to pick up the ZF5 and t-case. Seems a long time ago.

Also pull the resistor pack that's there beside the blower motor. You can get more yuk out that way. And, pull the kick panels. That gives access to an area where a lot of the yuk has gone. If you have the vents in the kick panels then pulling the vents gives access. If you don't have the vents then there are blocking plates behind the kick panels and if you pull them you'll have access.

Welcome, Dave! Glad you joined. Where in North Carolina? I ask because we have a map (Bullnose Forum/Member's Map in the menu) and can add you with a city or zip. Sounds like you have a lot of peeling to do. (I liken these trucks to onions. You peel and cry, peel and cry, but pretty soon you have enough to have a Bloomin' Onion. )

Paul!!!!!!!!!!! Welcome back, Kotter! Glad to see you on. Been a long time. Hope all is well with you. And, glad you got that oil burner started. Probably will start easily for the next several days. But that was quite a feat to get it lit off when it was that cold.

Is that a used item, Bill? And 90mm? My XL3F-BA Jaguar unit is to be in tomorrow. It'll be interesting to see what it says. And, btw, the Cardone unit does not say where it was made. Neither the sensor nor the casting.