Gary Lewis

That's a complex subject since you threw in the removal of EGR. That's because the distributor needs to be "curved" for either EGR or no EGR. The reason is that addition of an inert gas (exhaust) to the air/fuel mix slows the combustion of the mix. So the timing needs to be advanced significantly to accommodate that, and that is done in the distributor. But if you take the exhaust gas away the advanced timing will cause pinging if not detonation. So, if you are going to remove the EGR I'd suggest you get a distributor set up for that. And that's where the problems arise as you probably won't find a distributor advertised for that. And since the one you linked to doesn't say, and it isn't available anyway, I recommend you talk to Scotty at Parkland Performance. Tell him everything about your setup, inc what intake and carb you are going with, and he should be able to sell you a distributor that is curved for that application. (Scotty is a member on here but is rarely on. But you can tell him you were directed there from here.) As for the harness, that should work. But "Painless" is a bit of a misnomer as it won't be. We will need to help you through that as your existing harness has the oil pressure and water temp wiring in it, so you can't just unplug it and throw it away. The DS-II module should work fine. But there are "good" modules and "not so good" modules. The Motorcraft ones and some of the high-end ones, like NAPA Gold if I remember correctly, have a retard feature in them that helps in starting the engine. But cheaper ones don't. I can't tell about the one in the link, but it does have the blue grommet and that's a DS-II module. But I don't think you want to use that coil. It says it is for the MSD module, which probably means it is a high-current coil and that DS-II module isn't going to like it. You really don't want to run anything but a stock coil with a DS-II module or the module could fail.

I believe you have a "hybrid". I see a connection dangling on the carb that is probably for the feedback system, but I'll let others more familiar with those carbs confirm that. However the distributor is for sure from a DS-II system. So if, as I think, you have a feedback carb and a non-feedback ignition then the question becomes what to do. If you also have a computer then the computer isn't going to be happy 'cause it isn't controlling the ignition. But there's not much it can do about that save for changing the air/fuel ratio via the carb, and it has a very limited range in which it can do that. Maybe not even enough to cause problems. Given that I'd say you would be best to go with a non-feedback carb.

There are advantages and disadvantages to each of the many EFI solutions. But, from my understanding, only a factory system gives OBD-II. And I want my trucks to have that feature as I want my offspring to be able to have them maintained. (Not do it themselves, but have them maintained.) Yes, the various aftermarket systems have the ability to connect some kind of device to them and find out what the problem is, but those are proprietary systems and I want the kids to be able to take the truck anywhere to have it serviced. So I've chosen to go with EEC-V - especially since Dad's truck has an E4OD that requires some kind of controller, which the EEC-V has. But an aftermarket system would be easier to add on to an older vehicle if it didn't need the transmission controller. They come with a wiring harness, or harnii, and you put things in place and connect them up. Instead, I'm trying to figure out how to interface the new to the old. You could do it, but is that where you want to spend your time? But, I'll bet that you can also make the carb system on that 460 work. It is a simple carb with a DS-II ignition system. However, the fuel system can be a pain depending on whether it has a mechanical fuel pump, which a few had, or the electric pumps. Still, a TBI system, and especially one that controls the ignition, would be nice. Most of the advantages of port-injection EFI w/o the pain of individual injectors which require a special intake manifold, fuel rail, and wiring.

You are making good progress. And the adapter to your floor jack is a good idea. Good score at the salvage. Those EFI manifolds are said to flow a lot better. On the pics, the issue is that modern cameras embed an orientation code in the metadata of the picture and computers and mobile devices read that and orient the picture properly. This forum, and many other forums, doesn't read that code so doesn't re-orient the pic. So however you oriented the camera is how the picture displays. The way I fix that is to open the picture in some photo editing app and then save it. Sometimes the editing software doesn't rotate the image the way I want it and I have to rotate myself, but at least you can see it on the monitor and know which way up is. And that then works with the forum. At the same time I rotate the pic I downsize it to ~500kb. The max you can post on here is 1Mb, but there isn't any need for such a high res pic. So I shoot in whatever my camera shoots in natively and then downsize it and rotate it in one go.

Welcome! Glad you joined. Nice looking truck! Hope you'll start a thread about it in the main section so we can follow what you do with and to it. Where's home? I ask because we have a map (Bullnose Forum/Member's Map in the menu) and we can add you with a city/state or zip.

I'll see what the MAF sensor says tomorrow. Probably China. On the dizzy, I like the fact that the new Cardone unit has essentially no side play as I don't know how tight of a fit is has in the block.

Cory - I agree. Placing a TPS on a carb is crazy. Go EFI. Bill - I don't need to control an E4OD - YET. But I have an E4OD bolted up behind the 400 in Dad's truck. And I own a TFI Cleveland intake with the injector bungs cast in, and with the M-Block to Cleveland adapters I plan to have a full MAF/SEFI 400. So Big Blue is the pilot program and Dad's truck will follow. Both will have OBD-II ports so my offspring can have them maintained. And to speak to some of what Bill said, the EEC-V system can have the rear O2 sensor turned off, which I've done in my ECU. And it can have the crank sensor, EGR, AIR solenoids, and other things like that turned off, which I've done. So on Big Blue I'll be running a very plain vanilla EFI system with two O2 sensors, engine coolant temp, inlet air temp, and mass air flow inputs. And once I get that figured out I'll create another ECU with similar parameters but turn on the E4OD controls for Dad's truck.

Back in the early 70's I attended a set of classes hosted by Digital Equipment Corp (DEC) and I remember quite well their projection for the size and power of computers. It wouldn't be long before we could have computers in cars! And then I thought about how a computer could control the engine, and got excited. Given that, I've been interested in EFI for a long time. So I wanted to start this thread about the various EFI systems out there, what they can do, how they work, etc. (Note: This is not a debate about whether EFI is better than a carb, or vice versa.) And I invite any of you to explain what you know about EFI systems, ask questions, etc. I'll start. As many of you know, I'm following in Bill/85lebaront2's footsteps and installing a Ford EEC-V system in Big Blue. Yes, Ford did make an EEC-V system for the 460, but they only sold it in California and only in 1996 and '97. So our systems are essentially "bolt in", although the wiring part of that is somewhat complex as you have to interface the EFI wiring with the Bullnose wiring. But this thread is about the EFI systems themselves so we will stay away from that issue. But, you might ask what the differences are between EEC-IV and EEC-V systems for the 460. (Note that I specified "for the 460" as there are a lot of differences in other vehicles and with other engines.) Basically the IV systems are speed density, and that means the computer says "Since I know everything about the engine and its intake and exhaust systems, if I know the RPM then I know the amount of air that it is ingesting." However, if anything is changed then the computer doesn't know the amount of air. But on the V systems there's a mass air flow (MAF) sensor that tells the computer how much air is coming in, so within reason you can make changes. And that's one of the reasons I'm going that way since the cam isn't stock and I'm running headers. Speaking of MAF sensors, there are sensors and then there are sensors. Bill has been working on a spreadsheet of several of them, which is shown below. It shows the voltage output vs the air flow, which is important as an EEC-V ECU needs to know what the curve of the MAF sensor is. But this brings up a question of mine: Most of these MAF sensors go to maximum output of 5.00 volts at ~600 CFM. So what happens when the voltage no longer increases but the RPM, and therefore the air flow, continues to go up? Does the computer continue to adjust the AFR based on the O2 results?

Ok, thanks Gary. I was curious if they just used wider top plates for both the 2.5" and 3" leaf springs, or if they had different sized plates. I guess that answers that. I thought about it after I asked the question though, and I assume the diffs were all the same, so the spring perches must have always been 3" wide? Actually, I can't prove what top plates, 5798, came with 2wd or 4wd. The info below is literally all I find in the MPC for it.

Yes. The 2wd trucks had 2 1/2" wide springs and the 4wd trucks had 3" wide springs.

Yes, I see. Either I got lucky and my new distributor's casting measurements are correct, or it is correct to the adapter and cap that came with it. I guess we will see when I try to put a new cap on. Speaking of that, I wasn't aware that the cap for an EFI engine is different than for a carb'd engine. But the cap off the old DS-II distributor won't fit on the EFI distributor with the rotor in place. The rotor seems too high and won't let the cap sit down. But the cap fits fine w/o the rotor.

E0TZ 9N176-B 80/on E-F350 — 8 cyl. 460-w/in tank electric fuel pump. Has .090 dia. return orifice-also used as a field fix for units experiencing hot fuel problems Marked #E37E 9N176-AB There were two others: E3TZ-A with a red dot and a .060" return orifice, and E3TZ-B with a blue dot and a .040" orifice.

I hope all fits.

Well, none of the pins on the later speed control that I have are connected to ground. None. I actually don't know that it is any good as it came from Huck. But I wouldn't think a ground would be blown. Anyway, I got the Cardone MAF sensor in today, and it came with a new MAF casting. Here are the two side by side, with my PC'd casting on the left. Subsequent to taking the picture above I put the Cardone sensor on the Motorcraft casting. It went on ok, but the second screw wasn't as easy to turn in as the first was. But when I tried to put the old Motorcraft sensor on the Cardone casting the 2nd screw wouldn't go. And a quick look determined why - the screw hole doesn't line up. Also, I'm quite confused as to why I got a casting along with the sensor. Here's Rock Auto's listing for MAF units for a '96 F350. Note that the Cardone 869524 is shown in the picture as just the sensor. And here's Amazon listing, which is where I ordered the item. All of the little pictures are of the sensor.

Can you post the dyno sheet? I'd like to see what it looks like. What CR are you running? What heads? Cam info? You can see most of that stuff here: Documentation/Picture Galleries/Dad's Truck/Engine.

That’s more slack than I’d would want to put back on. And when you are planning the installation don’t forget to coat the bolts to ensure you can get them out. It is as much where they contact the timing cover as the threads.

I'm going for more of a grunter than a screamer. I doubt I'll spin it past 5k, but the torque should slow earths rotation if I launch towards the east! Good point. With that stroke, which is longer than even the 400's, you won't want to wind it too high. But then you won't need to either. For reference, my 400 has a 4.030 bore & 4.00 stroke. And it makes lots of low-end torque. Or, it did on the dyno as I have yet to drive it.

I don't think you'll smell a small leak into the engine in the exhaust. Too many other gasses in there to detect that w/your nose. I'll bet it was hose clamps. As for the steering box, I'll bet that made a huge difference! I think RH or BT is the way to go. On the engine, that should be a screamer!

It can't hurt, John, and may help. But I'm anxious to see what you think as I've been thinking about one for BB.

Good catch, Shaun. And I think you are right, Cory.

That's nice! Too bad about the driver's side. Looks like the front fender and door were hit, but not the rear fender. Interesting color, and you are right about the interior. Even the dash pad is pretty good, although cracked on the passenger's side.

You don't have to get all of the rust off, but you sure want to get anything loose off. And, all of the dirt and grease. If I remember correctly they recommend Marine Clean to clean things up. Don't know what's in Marine Clean but it works pretty well. But I use O'Reilly's brake cleaner instead and it cleans anything. Doubt you have O'Reilly's in England, so don't know what to recommend if you don't have the Marine Clean. And then they recommend Metal Ready to treat the metal. It is a water-based, zinc phosphate metal etching and preparation solution. I think Ospho is also a phosphate but has additional chemicals in it since it can be used by itself where Metal Ready is a prep. Anyway, the phosphate etches the surface and provides both some rust proofing as well as "tooth" that enhances the adhesion of the paint. I've not sprayed POR15, but it doesn't take much of it to cover, so I'd give it a light coat and then come back w/a 2nd coat when that one is tacky. And then you can hit the 2nd coat with a top coat if you want - again while tacky.

Chass - You are on the map, and you aren't far from Dane/Grumpin. As for towing, you didn't say how big your boat is but 8 MPG may be optimistic. There are some people who get that running light. However, a properly running 460 should be able to get about that with a 20 - 25' boat at reasonable speeds. Dane - That's funny!

I'll check the speed control module tomorrow on the DG/O wire. But I'll bet just grounding that will work. Still have to work my way through the C305(A) bit, but I think I'm just about "there" on the speed control issue.

/\ /\ /\ What he said! You WILL wear it if you don't wear gloves. It takes 10 days to a fortnight to wear off.