Gary Lewis

Bill - I have the plug for the later speed control as part of the '96 harness, and have already confirmed it bolts into the same spot as the earlier one. But I hadn't thought about how to connect the old to the new, and the idea of using an extra old amplifier as a "mating piece" is interesting. The old speed control amplifier has power, the output of the horn pad switches, and the input from the VSS, as well as the outputs to the speed control actuator. So I can either use the edge of the PCB from a spare amplifier as a connector or hardwire into those circuits to extend them out to the new speed control - via that grommet in the firewall. (The input from the VSS is coming through the firewall somewhere so I could reroute it to the new speed control module if I wanted to make it cleaner.) Speaking of VSS, do you know if the output of the '86 VSS module is acceptable to the speed control awa the ECU? I don't plan to have a PSOM and was planning to run the output of that VSS directly into both modules. On the emergency cancel switch on the master cylinder, that's the guy that caused the fires, right? I'm not sure I need that. I'll have Brake On/Off (BOO) as well as the clutch switch. So, do I need the fire hazard? And you are right about the wiring - although Ford went way out of their way to hide the fact that it is the same. They rotated the schematic 180 and then flipped it as well. Man, until I could see them on one page I couldn't get my head around them. But, they are the same.

I understand your position on Accel. Let's hope they are better than last you tried them and that Scotty is right. I've looked at the chart but don't know enough to interpret it. Anything to point out? Heads - I hope to not have to do that again. Man, those 460 cast iron heads are HEAVY! On the pump wiring, I think I've already bypassed the resistance wire, but will make for sure. Thanks for the reminder. As for a table or something, I was thinking about something like that earlier. But after I was up and down like a yoyo getting tools today I came to the conclusion that I want to stand as erect as possible and lean over to reach things. That way if I have to get down to get something it'll be much easier. The item I ordered is the new one with a few significant changes. First, it has an I-style lower arm instead of two arms. The beauty of that is that it allows you to move sideways much farther as the I-arm doesn't hit the tires as quickly. And, the pad can be stood up in case you are standing on the ladder wanting to reach the top of the vehicle. Last, it has twice as many adjusting holes so you can dial in the height much closer. Hadn't thought about using a piece of bicycle inner tube, but that makes sense. But am thinking of filling it with The Right Stuff as it foams a bit before setting up. And yes, a connector. However, I need to figure out how many wires I'll have before deciding what one to use. Right now I'm counting 43, but I expect that to go up as I think about it. In fact, I know I need to extend the speed control wiring to go to the newer style unit with the integrated amplifier. So I would be surprised if it didn't come out close to 50. As for the throttle cable, yes I kept the one from Huck. But I don't think it is in very good shape so may buy a new one. And, as said previously, the cable on the speed control unit isn't good either so I'll be looking for a new one of those - assuming they can be replaced.

We will find a place to list the ones you like, so please keep track.

Gave up on the idea of kneeling on the radiator support and ordered the Traxion Topside Creeper NXT. Hopefully it'll be here soon.

Bill - I got your email about the MAF curves, and I'll check that awa the Erols link out in a bit. And yes, that's the screen and gasket. Cannot find it anywhere and since this one is useable now that I've gotten it cleaned up I'll do just that. As for what I did today, I got started disassembling what I previously put together. First, I created this "perch" with a piece of channel so I could have a place to support myself when getting to the back of the engine - and I'll have to do a lot of that. Then I pulled the sealing cups out of the injector ports. Used a sharp tool to punch a hole in the brass cups and then used a #10 sheetmetal screw with several washers on it to bring the cups out. It worked well after I found that combination. A #12 screw was too big and didn't want to start in the size of hole I could make. And one washer wasn't enough to pull the cups out w/o bending, so I wound up with three. Then I got to looking at the things back towards the firewall and realized how much more work there is to do there. First, in the pic below you can see the grommet where the ~50 wires going to the ECU are supposed to go. But, there's already several things there, inc the aftermarket oil pressure gauge's tube, the wire to the aftermarket coolant temp gauge, and the several wires going to the AFR meter. Obviously the grommet needs to be changed out, but I may be able to run those things along with the wires to the ECU through that grommet. But circled in the pic above is the oil pressure switch that controls the fuel pump relay. And as I told John, I had a Deja Vu moment. (That's a movie we saw again recently.) I realized we'd had this conversation before, and sure enough we did in this general area. So the pressure switch and most of that wiring comes out. As said in that post, here's the '96 wiring on the left and the '85 wiring on the right: And this shows what I plan to do, but w/o taking out the extraneous stuff: Last, this shows the resulting wiring with the extraneous stuff gone: Man, working on your knees on top of the radiator support is a huge pain! But I haven't figured out a better way to get in there.

David - I'm not seeing any breakdown of the booster. It is just base part # 2005 and there don't seem to be any parts for it. But it is normal for the brakes to change as you start the truck. In fact, if I remember right one of the tests is to put your foot on the brake, hard, and then start the engine. The pedal should go farther down if the booster is working.

I got them! Thanks! I will see that they are put to good use.

Next layer of the onion - the MAF sensor's gasket. The one I have, shown below, is probably serviceable but I'd like to replace it. The ID# on it is F6TX-9E931-AA, but searching for that finds nothing. (You'll get hits if you don't force it to "verbatim", but when you do that you get nada.) I've asked Numberdummy to see if he can cross-ref it. But meanwhile I'm cleaning this one.

Bummer!

Yup, I need the tamper-proof Torx, so they'll be here tomorrow. And that will let me pull that sensor and at least clean the casting, which is pretty gross. Not sure if I want to order in a new sensor or not. And, you were right. The '95 was SD/BF. The wiring harnii & this MAF unit came from a CA salvage. Don't understand why there's so much corrosion on this casting, but I can clean it up a bit. Here are a couple of shots to show that:

I hadn't seen that choke from Mike's, but I really like it! REALLY! I think I'd quit messing with the hot air bit and install that choke. It says to install the sensor under "an existing engine bolt", but there are lots of those and they probably vary quite a bit as to how hot they get. I'd be inclined to call Mike's and ask where the best place to put it is.

I don't see a TFI module hanging off the dizzy and I see what I think is one of the DS-II connectors on the far right side of the pic, so I'm pretty sure you have the non-feedback carb. However, if you were to take a pic of a bit farther to the right I could confirm that the DS-II module is there. But let's see what others have to say.

Do you have the hot air tube connected from the exhaust to the carb? If you don't have electric assist the hot air coming off the exhaust is all that opens the choke up. And w/o that it'll never open up completely. With everything hooked up the choke itself will slowly come off as the engine warms up, but you are right that the fast idle won't change until you release the tension on it by giving the engine some throttle. And until the choke stands straight up you'll have some fast idle.

On the wideband, I'll probably weld a bung into the X-pipe and put the sensor there. I have the unit wired and mounted, so might as well use it. As for the MAF sensor, I didn't notice that it takes a tamper-proof Torx bit. I'll check to see what the screws on the one I have take, and that I have one of those bits. But yes, RA has several of the sensors themselves, as does Summit and Amazon. But the only "big" name I'm seeing is Cardone, and their 869524 is $75 from RA, and it is in the "daily driver" category. However, in the "economy" category is Cardone's 749524 for $63 after core. It is said to be "remanufactured" while the 869524 is "new". So, is the remanufactured one just cleaned up and using the original sensor and the new one is a completely new sensor? Both say they replace several part numbers, including F5OF-AA. Thoughts?

Nice truck. But what does having a salvage title do to it? What little I know says that insurance companies don't want to insure it at a very high value so you will have a hard time getting your money back if it is wrecked. Maybe that's why they suggest it would make a great off road vehicle? If that's the case it would seem the price is quite high.

I do think you have the non-feedback system as I don't see the wiring to the carb for the feedback module. But what I was really looking for was a pic of the distributor as it is easier to tell whether you have the TFI ignition system that goes with the feedback carb. However, even though there isn't much light on the dizzy it is in the top pic and it doesn't look to have the TFI module hanging off of it. As said, TFI and feedback carb go hand in hand. W/o TFI you should have a DS-II ignition module that looks something like this on the driver's fenderliner. If so, then you have the non-feedback carb, and the cheap Chinese carb might work well for you.

Welcome! Glad you joined. We were hoping for a bit more of an introduction of yourself and your truck. I take it from your "handle" that you are in Hawaii. Right? We have a map (Bullnose Forum/Member's Map in the menu) and we could add you with a city or zip. And how about some other info? And pictures? We are a community and like to get to know each other. As for your question, while we can try to answer it here, the best place for it is in the main section. That's because more people will see it there than here. But let's take a shot at it here. I am not familiar with the "pipe" you mentioned, but you should be able to install the engine coolant temp sensor anywhere that has a flow of coolant before the thermostat opens. So I do think you could install it in the intake manifold where the coolant passages are in the front or back.

My rule is that if you cannot drive it to ascertain what is wrong then you should pay salvage prices. In this case maybe $750. Not $2,700.

Greg - That is quite the story! Wow! First, you are now on the map. And if you look you'll see you are close to Scott/kramttocs in Bolivar. You two need to meet. Second, I hope you can come to the truck show and get together here in Skiatook. The GTG will be Friday night Sept 2nd, and the show will be Saturday the 3rd. As for Tim, my 400 pulled 400 HP and 500 lb-ft on his dyno a few years ago. And I consider him a friend, and he came to the show several years ago. So if I can help with your issues please let me know. He's a member on here and I can tag him so he'll get an email to come to this thread if you'd like.

Should I add the HD truck part info to that webpage?

I couldn't have said it better myself. Minor progress this weekend. I replaced my right front shock and spring. It took longer than I expected but mostly because I had Dad's helper. My youngest daughter is the only child out of 5 even remotely interested in going out in the snow to "help" Dad work on the truck, but she makes up for it by being intensely interested. I have no doubt she'll do a project like this herself one day. Everything takes longer when you have to explain every little thing you're doing, but I wouldn't change it for the world. I had a couple minor mishaps. I got thrown for a loop by the labeling on the shock. It comes out fairly clearly in the photo, but in my hands it clearly looked like it said "Do Not Install This End Down" the only way "down" could be! I also lost the top nut for the right front shock and had to borrow the one from the left, because apparently this Rancho shock has a different thread than the old stock shock used and I didn't have a matching nut on hand. And finally I discovered that my lower shock mount bracket holes are slightly elongated. I went ahead and reassembled it as is because LMC is apparently back-ordered for this part and the ones on ebay are super expensive, like $65 apiece. It's only about 1/16" out of round - enough to care about but maybe not enough to throw out the part. It's tempting to have somebody weld it. It's even more tempting to use this as an excuse to get a welder again. I'm no master, but I can do some basic work and this is so close I could probably fill it just with 1-2 tacks... What to do... I also got the radiator reinstalled. Sort of. I got that Champion the rest of you recommended and it's a real piece of work. With the cost of aluminum these days it's amazing how cheap it was. But it doesn't seem to sit quite right. I replaced the lower isolators since mine were shot, so I don't think it's that, and I'm pretty sure I reinstalled the top brackets properly. But it tilts toward the engine - there's about a 1/4" gap between the top of the radiator and the front rail of the engine compartment. Is this slight tilt just something normal that I didn't notice when I removed the old one? Or did I screw something up? I'm so glad your daughter is helping! That is wonderful! (I'm hoping one of my grandkids will want to help some day.) On the welder, I don't know how I'd do w/o one. Honestly, I think you will need it as you go forward with the project. As for the radiator, mine tilts back a bit. I think they all do.

Yes, I'm finding used F5OF's, but I have one of those. So I'm not ready to buy one of them as I want new. But some are selling the sensor itself that you mount on your housing. Have you heard anything about them? As for the wideband, how badly do I need that? I have one, but its sensor is in the RH/#11 position, and I don't have a bung in the crossover so will have to put one there if I'm going to continue to use the wideband. Did you use yours in the setup of the EFI?

Bill - I should have said that I'm not planning on having a downstream sensor. It is turned off in the ECU. And yes, I had gone back to the previous discussions of where #11 is vs #21. But thanks for confirming that. Also, thanks for the locations of C1025 & C1028. I'll try to put mine in rough the same locations. Plus, the pictures help a bunch. Given that, I ordered the 24" extensions as I'm pretty sure they'll work. So now I think that all I'm missing is the MAF sensor. And I cannot find the Motorcraft unit I'm looking for, which is the F5OF unit that would be stock. Here are the #'s you provided, as well as their CFM rating at 5.00 volts. So I'm looking for one of these in a Motorcraft brand. Anyone finds one please let me know. F8LF-12B579-AA: 598 CFM XL3F-12B579-BA: 582 CFM F50F-12B579-AA: 541 CFM

Not a bad price, but I think your local hardware store has them as well - in the bathroom section.

And, toward that end, what about this pair of 24" O2 Oxygen Sensor 4 Wire Extension Wire Harnesses from Amazon for $25? On the left are the connectors for those extensions. On the right is a pic of one of the O2 sensors that I got in today. Note that it doesn't have any tabs or fins sticking out. I just confirmed that the sensor will plug into a connector that has provisions for tabs/fins. So I'm thinking that a pair of these would probably be exactly what I need. Thoughts? Better ideas?