Gary Lewis

Do you mean a return-style fuel pressure regulator, not a filter? If so, then I think I understand. But wouldn't that cause the system to eventually have a vacuum on it as the fuel is removed with the engine running? We have a thread about that called "Fuel tank rupture caused by negative pressure????" You might read that to see what you think.

I was a stage lighting tech in my youth. The Primary colors of light are Red - Green - Blue. (Same as a RGB on a computer monitor or TV set) So the filters when they were new reduced the light by 1/3rd removing the red light to get the Greenish/blue. The Incandescent bulbs are not a pure white light either, and couple the fact that the instrument cluster backing can discolor, and no longer reflect the light ... It's crazy how much loss of brightness there is. As for the ICVR, yes they are OLD! And archaic in design. So you should replace it with something much better, like this one from Dennis Carpenter. I believe the 1971 F-series and Econoline was the first clusters with a printed circuit, so it makes sense why Ford would still use it. The Guages didn't really change in function, just in visual design, until 1987. Yes, they reduced by 1/3 when they were new. They are far from new and while Bill & HIPO said you can polish them back to be as good as new I don't agree. In my experience they still are cloudy and will surely seriously reduce the light. But by using LEDs you bypass the need for the filters. Want blue, install blue LEDs.

Well done! That makes sense to me. Thanks!

Yep, this exact same OEM part is for sale on eBay. I found one at my local salvage yard (10$) on my lunch time. Good shape, need a little cleaning. Not from a Bullnose, was on a '91 Bricknose. But I am wondering about the application year. Was it the exact same part since 1980? The only Bullnose pictures I found on the web don't show it clearly, although it seems to took similar, but not identical: The one I bought (Bricknose) And Bullnose pictures: EDIT: Found better Bullnose picture on the web. The cover shape is different from the Bricknose one: First picture shows a Bricknose cover, the two other ones show a Bullnose: Since the Bricknose cowls fit maybe that piece will as well?

That's cool, but I would like to understand how you "used an oscilloscope to match the output of the stereo to the amp"? I'm not doubting it, just wanting to understand so I might be able to do it.

I've not done this, nor do I know anyone that has. But Bill/85lebaront2 put a 90's dash in his Bullnose, so I'll see what he has to say.

Yes, take the blue filters out. They are now more opaque than translucent and not only change the color of the light but also significantly reduce the amount of it. But if you like blue then you could go with the HIPO blue LEDs. As for the ICVR, yes they are OLD! And archaic in design. So you should replace it with something much better, like this one from Dennis Carpenter.

You are now on the map, Antoneo.

I've had to really crank down on some brake fittings to keep them from leaking. And you want to be using a flare wrench to do that. As for the part numbers, I think this is what you are looking for:

I'm with Bill - What you have is working, but if you want to change add the PVS.

Q1: Vacuum restrictor = VRest Q2: If the distributor is the original one, which means it was curved to work w/o an EGR valve, and if the engine is running well I'd leave well enough alone. But you could pull the EGR valve and put a block-off plate in there to ensure there isn't an exhaust leak. Q3: I don't see the stuff in your two circles save for the VRest. So I think all of that has been removed and all you have is the vacuum line from the carb, through the VRest, to the distributor. Am I missing something? I have to go now, but if you want to delve further there's a training manual here that might help: Documentation/Emissions/Understanding Emissions Controls.

The dual battery setup is indeed rare. I have one, but it is the only one I've ever seen. Works wonders for the winch and 3KW inverter. Feeding it with a 3G alternator.

Wow! You saved it! Yes, the cam timing can make a very big difference. Glad you did that.

Not sure to whom that question was addressed, but it sounds normal to me.

Interesting. I like the 400 - good torque if set up well. But if it was "factory authorized" it might have gotten the factory, retarded, timing set. A guy I know installed a straight-up set and a 4bbl and said it doubled the power.

You need Bill/85lebaront2 to help you. I'll tag him. But having run a carb/ignition shop for decades I'm sure he knows. Not sure about 500+ HP, but they were rated at 800 or 850 CFM. Should have a lot of flow, and Chrysler used them on the 440's.

Couple of years ago, a friend of mine gave me a hitch to install on Big Brother's front. Each time I need it, I grumble while remembering it is still on a shelve. Shame on me. Silly boy!

I have their Highliner in Big Blue. Well made.

In the pic below, from our page at Documentation/Vacuum Systems/Vacuum System Requirements, you can see the vacuum manifold on the firewall in the upper right and the tee/check valve in the upper center. So if you pull a cap off an unused port on the manifold you'll be ahead of the check valve/tee.

Does your door panel have a screw that goes into a support arm that prevents the panel from moving in/out? Without it I could see the panel moving and squeaking a lot. On the center channel, mono will work. But in the olden days we used to create a center channel by using the + wire from one side and the - wire from the other. That way the speaker only reacted to the things that were truly in both channels. Another way to do that is to get a speaker with two inputs, so you wire both channels to it and since both are connected mechanically to the same cone only things that are in both move the cone. But back in the day we didn't have those kinds of speakers available so did it electrically. I have a center channel speaker in my shop wired that way and it works very well.

Most carbs have two vacuum connections - manifold vacuum, meaning always on, and ported, meaning on above idle. But the Carter 1bbl usually has one connection and it is actually neither manifold or ported. So I'd connect on the vacuum tree that is usually on the firewall. It should have a vacuum connection from the engine and then vacuum lines to the HVAC system and to the transmission. That should give you full manifold vacuum.

Glad to see it is being used. Should I add it to the documentation to make it easier to find?

Yes, beautiful! Wonderful job!

Maybe you could tell us what it is? I've not heard of it.