Gary Lewis

TJ, you inserted the same diagram twice. I think you’ll need to edit your post. I suppose this is the good one, the "PMGR" one: Also, maybe the issue is on my side, but the provided link doesn’t work: And please continue, I will subscribe to the “Noobie Guides" collection! Can’t wait for the next one! Jeff - You are right that he has the wrong diagram on there. But the link works for me.

Looking great! Yes, it may be the lighting, but then the lighting in the truck won't be very good, so maybe it won't show?

Looks clean and fresh.

Just ground the white/red wire to the engine and then turn the key on. The gauge should climb to at least full scale, and maybe more, in a few seconds. If not the wiring or the gauge itself is bad. As for the D60, an RSK kit like that from Sky Offroad and SD springs will get you ~2" of lift in the front, so your tires will fit easily. And that's a good time to add a locker.

Yep, good writeup. Glad the starter saga is seemingly over. Another layer of the onion peeled.

Well done, TJ! Good writeup! I'll admit I'm having to wipe my eyes 'cause I'm laughing so hard I'm crying. For instance I remember all so well telling my granddaughter yesterday that her father's arms were getting shorter. She looked "that look" at me and then started laughing when she understood. (It was almost at that same time that my phone lit up, yet again, from someone laying under an '83 asking questions and I couldn't answer 'cause I was having too much fun.) But I'm glad you got the starter bit worked out. I'm sure it is cranking much faster now with that PMGR starter. The 2nd one.

If the gear doesn't look bad then I'd lube the speedo cable. Yours is loooooong and can easily wrap & unwrap in that length if dry, and that'll cause all sorts of twitchyness on the speedo. I had fits with this on Big Blue, and what I finally did that solved the problem was to run Mobil 1 wheel bearing grease in the cable. That tamed, but didn't completely eliminate, the twitchyness. I think we may have had this "conversation" before, and if so please forgive my forgetfulness.

Well, at least the other problems seem to be solved. On the oil pressure gauge, the wire should be white/red. It is the coolant temp wire that is red/white. But you can ground the wire to the engine to see that the wiring to the gauge is good. If the gauge goes up to full scale and maybe beyond then the wiring is good and you should replace the sending unit. If it doesn't go up there's a problem in the wiring. As for Teflon on the threads, if the gauge was working previously then the Teflon wasn't causing problems. And I use a thread sealer on sending units w/o problem. But the tach is harder to test as there isn't an easy way to do it. I think you can take C323 apart and connect the dark green/yellow to battery voltage as rapidly as you can and the needle should wiggle. But I've not done that and it might not work. What will work to test the wiring is to pull the dash apart and ground the dark green/yellow wire on the connector going into the cluster. If the wiring is good the engine will not run since there won't be any spark. If the engine does run the wiring is bad. But I wouldn't use WD40 on connections. I'd use a Q-tip and alcohol to clean connections. However, if you pull the dash apart then the connector that goes into the gauge cluster can be cleaned, gently, with an eraser on a pencil and then use alcohol. The eraser will polish the copper. As for the D60, I don't know what Blue is so can't comment. But I will say that in my experience a TTB front suspension with leaf springs rides very poorly. And a D60 with an RSK and SuperDuty springs rides much better.

In my experience the drive gear seems to wear less than the driven gear.

Congratulations!!!!

Thanks, Ralph!

Looking great! Really well done!

I think the Amazon one is what you want. Amazon is listing the Identification # not the Part #. The Part # you want is C7SV-B but according to the 2nd chart the ID # is C7SV-C, which is what Amazon shows. Don't ask me why the upper chart shows a different ID #. Maybe Ralph knows?

That's amazing that it cleaned up that nicely. How did you do that?

Kevin - I put you on the map, but may have gotten the wrong Orange, although I didn't find others. So please advise. As for the leak down test, it requires a source of compressed air, although not all that much, and the tester kit itself. Here's a link to some on Amazon and you can see they start at $17 US. However, I wouldn't buy one that doesn't have two gauges as it is the difference between the two that tells the tale. The way it works is that you bring the input up to some fixed pressure, which is usually 100 psi to make the maths easy. Then hook the other side into the spark plug hole of a cylinder that is on TDC on the compression stroke. If all is well there will be little leakage, which will be registered as pressure loss on the 2nd valve as there's a very small orifice between the two valves. So if #1 is at 100 and #2 shows 90 you have a 10% loss. Then you go around listening to find where the loss is coming from. In the carb means an intake valve is leaking. In the exhaust means its valve is leaking. Bubbles in the cooling system mean you have a head gasket leak or a cracked head or block. And sound in the sump means the rings are leaking. I've seen compression testing saying there's no problem, but a leak down test proved why the engine idled so roughly - adjacent cylinders in the firing order had bad valves.

Welcome, Kevin! Glad you joined. What part of "down under"? I ask because we have a map (Bullnose Forum/Member's Map in the menu) and we could add you if you'd like. As for troubleshooting, you won't get as much visibility here as you would in the main section. But I'll tell you what I'd do - run a leak-down test. That will tell you a lot more about valves, head gaskets, cracked heads and block, etc than anything else. Then you can decide what to do from there. Having said that, the fact that it ran one day and doesn't the next doesn't suggest bent push rods, leaking head gaskets, or the like. It is more binary than those things usually manifest. So I'm thinking ignition or lack of fuel. And since you shot "go juice" in it with no effect it probably isn't fuel. But, you also said it spins freely like there is no compression. So it doesn't add up. Perhaps someone else has a better idea?

Wow! I have maybe the 3000 version, but that one is over the top!

Yes. And, glad you got the tach working.

There are two identical red/yellow wires in #13 connector's pin (see precedent picture). I tested the "under hood" one and I confirm it is going to #13. I left it terminated as it was, and the Tach is working. I suppose its #13 twin is connected to the fuse panel. Yes, there are two wires in that connector, as shown below. And under the hood one of those wires provides power to various carb circuits.

Wow! Love the bracket! And having a fire extinguisher is really a good idea on these trucks.

You are now on the map.

Nice! Is it set up for a rifle or shotgun?

Long story short: 1- I repaired the «Sick Tach», but once installed it didn’t work, completely dead. 2- Went to my local salvage yard and got an identical one for 20$, but this one looking in really good shape. 3- Installed it and…. Dead too. 4- Opened the hood and unwrapped my so well protected harnesses. 5- Discovered the tach wires, well preserved… I simply forgot that they were lying there and that I wrapped them with the rest of harness when I cleaned up the under hood wiring. Ok, now that I located them, I am wondering where the red/yellow one is supposed to be connected. I know where to re-connect the green/yellow dots (11) and the black/light green dots (12) ones. Any advice about where to re-connect the red/yellow hatch (13) wire? It goes to Fuse 18. But it isn't connected?

You did make quite a difference in the way it runs. But the hose off the front of the carb is a bowl vent, and is normally routed to the charcoal cannister that sits below the battery and collects fumes from the carb and the tank when the engine is off. Then when the engine is on a low vacuum sucks the fumes out and burns them. However, you shouldn't have the bowl vent connected to vacuum itself. The bowl of a carb is to have atmospheric pressure on it, and if you put a vacuum on it that will change the air/fuel ratio the carb provides. Next up is the power to your HEI. You don't have enough current going to it, and too small of wire. Yes, you have 12v but power is voltage times current and you don't have enough current going to the distributor. HEI's are power-hungry devices and GM learned the hard way they need lots thereof. Go to the page at Documentation/Electrical/Ignition and then the Ignition Simplification tab followed by the One Wire tab to see a recommended way of wiring it. But you have it running well. Maybe it can be just a bit better?

Good job, Paul! Yes, a simple carb and ignition make for a reliable engine. And while many on here dis the HEI, it is simple and powerful if given enough current to do its job. Looking good!