Gary Lewis

That looks good! But I've never heard of using firewood ashes for polishing. Is that like a very fine pumice?

Hey Jim, I went to his site, and also saw your posts on FTE...The suggestion is to cut the printed circuit around the ammeter! My ignorant question--why not de-pin the two wires at the cluster connector? I am asking and not knowing if that would be possible. Looking at EVTM now as I type....not finding it. Not sure which "his site" you mean, but go to Documentation/Electrical/3G Conversion and then go to the Ammeter & Voltmeter tab. There you'll find a modified page from the EVTM. And I would not cut the traces as you cannot easily put that back. And while you could de-pin the connector then you have to run new wires. I prefer to use the wires that are already there and just add the relay. But Jim is right, you could use some source of key-on power. However, that will get you the voltage after whatever devices that circuit powers, which will change from time to time depending on what you pick. The relay approach gets you true battery voltage. Having said that, the voltmeter's scale has no numbers, so in reality it doesn't make much difference.

Welcome, Kenny! Glad you joined. What part of CA? We have a map (Bullnose Forum/Member's Map in the menu) and we can add you with a city or zip.

I like it! But id there a fuse? And did you come off of both sides of the relay where the blue arrows are?

I’ve taken several tach needles off and never had any trouble. And mine were are from a gas engine. But the ferrule being left behind is worrying. Does the needle off the diesel have a ferrule? I don’t remember seeing one on mine.

That looks great!

Looking great! Very well done. As for the Bondo, glad you found something that will flex.

Bondo? I thought you were using epoxy resin and SEM texture. Bondo doesn’t crack when the dash flexes?

Matt, you’re right in. You’re proposal appears to be the only working one for our trucks. Considering that I almost never pull off my tailgate, I decided to go this way. Here are some picts, for those who would try it on their side. The goal is to replace the passenger “slut” pivot by a driver “round” one. Pay attention to get the right model. I first bought a wrong one at my local salvage yard. Different dimensions and diameter. I found the right one at LMC. Pulling off the “slut” pivot was easy (with the right Torx bit). You have to pull out the tail light assembly first, in order to access the hidden screw plate (which will drop). There are couple of holes in the body, and I found that the new “round” pivot (blue arrow) will not use the same than the “slut”one (red arrow). The upper hole remains the same (green circle). Also, the new “round” pivot looked a bit loose in the tailgate (for my taste). So I decided to make it a little tighter by applying a foam tape (one side sticky, leaving the exposed side with its plastic layer). The good thing is that it is also maintaining the pivot in place while manipulating the tailgate. Putting back the tailgate at its place is really tight, I had to make some paint touch up, although nothing serious. Here is the final result. I was really proud about this anti-theft system, showing this “success” to my wife. Who simply replied: «So if I understand correctly, they can steal everything in the bed but, fortunately, your tailgate will be safe? Nice…» Well done, Jeff. I was pretty sure that’s what you were going to do. As for the stuff in the bed, that’s why I have the bed cover and alarm system. They can open the tailgate but the whole country will know.

Welcome! Glad you joined. Jim is right that things are a bit busy for me at the moment and I can’t take much time right now on the iPhone question. But I’m using my new iPhone 14 and I’m not having problems. I’ve included screenshots of both landscape and portrait modes on my phone. So what am I missing?

Yes, welcome! Glad you joined.

Yes, but Gary’s not home.

But that’s still PROGRESS, and progress is GOOD!

Welcome! Glad you joined.

An electric fuel pump really should have a safety so it can only run when the engine is turning. So a mechanical pump is a good idea. A stock 302 should pull 18 - 20” of vacuum at idle. I would bump the timing up to maybe 12 BTDC and see if that helps. On the squeal I would check for a rock or something in a front pad. As for the EGR, it should be ok without removing and blocking. But you can check to see if it is working by applying and then removing vacuum. There should be a change as the engine should slow down and maybe struggle to idle with vacuum on the valve. And that should go away when you take the vacuum off.

Thanks, Slim. You are good to go.

Welcome! Glad you joined.

Yes, welcome! Glad you joined.

No problem, Jeff. We are happy to help others learn. And glad that you should have improved performance from Big Bro.

Beautiful!

I didn’t see yours but I can easily imagine that they can look as this notorious Windows screensaver! Even if I’m on Apple since more than 30 years, I had no choice to work with Win OS, so I know it. And seems that some Mac aficionados found the way to install it on their Apple machines. Something like this from the page at Documentation/Vacuum/Vacuum System Diagrams/460 V8:

Looking good!

Yep, and probably for years thereafter. Good find.

Oddly enough I cannot find a calibration code for an '84 F350 w/a 351W 4bbl. But there is one with a 351W 2bbl. The Canadian version w/a manual tranny is Parts List #302 and it has a "D7AZ 12A225-B Restrictor assy, (distributor vacuum) Color code: Blue". That part is used in many, many of the applications, including #399 & 400 which are 351W's with 4bbls. So I think that's the one you need, Jeff.

Looking good! But is that polyester or epoxy resin? What sticks the best on this stuff? You've probably said but I've forgotten. Bubba looks content. But as I was scrolling down your post and saw what looked like a dog under plastic right below the corner hutch and I was worried! However, a little more scrolling and there was Bubba, chillin'.