Gary Lewis

Good catch, Ralph. Pretty sure it is a mistake in the 84 EVTM, although I guess there might be more granularity needed in the "calendar". It might be that the 84 EVTM was published in late 83 or early 84, and the buzzer might have come out in late 84. Having said that, Jeff's truck was built in early '84 and appears to have the later buzzer. So that takes us back to "pretty sure it is a mistake in the 84 EVTM".

Looking good! I think the silver pen is in my future. And that SEM texture appears to be a good solution to the problem of the plastic turning mealy and shedding the texture.

That looks good!

Welcome! Glad you joined. Would you like to be on our map? You can see it at Bullnose Forum/Member's Map in the menu. As for the truck, it looks great! But you need to bone up on posting pics, which you can do on the page at Bullnose Forum/Forum FAQ's. Here's one of your pics which is larger than the 1Mb limit, so I clicked the "Large" resizing button.

Sorry to see that you need to find a new tuner. But it does seem like he's someone to steer clear of.

Glad you got it fixed.

There is a spark-retard feature that is supposed to be in the ignition modules to help in starting. But not all modules have it. In fact, I have one marked Motorcraft that doesn't have it, although it might be a Chinese knock-off. So normally a Motorcraft is the best bet, but Napa's Gold line is also said to have that circuit.

Yes, it is likely to be the ignition module. But when it cools down it may run again. If so it is highly likely to be that module, and if not then the pickup module in the distributor. Either will give the same results, no spark, when they fail and they frequently fail when hot.

Looks great, Jeff!

Yes, main section would be the root. But Projects works also. Your call. As for the backup camera, I LOVE mine. Backed up last night in the dark and could easily see what was back there.

You apparently missed the email I just sent you asking you to post an introduction in the New Members Start Here folder. That is important as you'll get to see our guidelines when you do, and we hold everyone to them so you need to read them. Don't worry, plenty of people miss that step, but please follow through so we can answer your questions.

Gary, as I mentioned earlier, I recently changed Big Brother's tires, preparing the road trip. With his all-year-long winter tires, Big Bro used to drink around 9mpg, 10 with a back wind and rolling down a slope. His new consumption is 13mpg. I am flabbergasted Tires weren't cheap, but wow, what a difference! And not to mention the comfort and the huge noise reduction. Wonderful! That is a huge improvement!

I think you will be pleased with the results.

Flying to Zurich in two months. Sorry I missed you.

That is the nastiest stuff I've ever experienced. And I still don't know to get it off.

Well, Ralph has added fuel to the fire with this 1982+ bezel, although by the color he probably knows exactly what year it is. In any event, we need some ORGANIZATION. And I'm not getting there.

Looks good! And I agree that SEM lays down well. It is really hard to get it to run. Crack repair looks great as well.

Yes, pull the axle forward with a come-along, ratchet strap, etc to get to the bushing.

Wow! That is pretty! And I agree, now is not the time to cut corners. Do it right.

You can take the lower column out. There is a pinch bolt to hold it to the top column on the top and pinch bolt to hold it to the steering box on the bottom. If I remember correctly the bolts have to come all the way out. And the shaft collapses into itself, although usually with great difficulty, so you can make it shorter to get it out. And you'll have to drill the rivets and replace them with bolts.

150 ft-lbs isn't all that much. My "big" impact is Harbor Freight's pneumatic Earthquake and it is good for about 1000 if I remember correctly. So I'm surprised that your torx bit broke with your impact.

Here is ok, but you'll get more attention in the main section. Your call. Good going on the A/C. And good plan on the tires. On the doors, there is a thread called Pex Door Striker Mod that might help. And our page at Documentation/Electrical/Speed Control might help with that one. But I don't know where to start on the stalling issue so I'll address the fuel gauge. It should be wired as shown below, which is from the 1986 EVTM at Documentation/Electrical/EVTM/1986 EVTM, so it isn't all that complicated. However, when you say there is "no movement on the gauge when selecting rear tank", do you mean that it still reads the same regardless of the switch position? If that is the case then it sounds like the switch itself has failed. I would check the input and output of the switch.

You must either have weak bits or a really strong impact. I would be tempted to use my torch with MAPP gas and a small flame. Heat it and quench it with PB Blaster or similar. Heat and quench. I don't think you will get the belt too hot, but then I wouldn't be heating it terribly hot nor for long before I hit it with PB Blaster.