Gary Lewis

In my experience the floor pan soaks up a bunch of the torque from an impact, but an impact is more effective on stuck bolts than straight leverage. So I'd try them both ways - impact and breakover with a cheater. And I'd try to both tighten and then loosen, tighten and then loosen.

Those are interesting #'s. I wouldn't have expected a ~10% increase with the Pro-Flo EFI, but it is pretty obvious that was the difference. But for the change this year, do you think it was mostly tires or transmission?

Don't like seeing that the 2015 F150 left you stranded since I have one as well. But glad it was an easy fix. As for the rear bumper, I really wasn't worried about traction as I don't step there since the rear camera is so close. It was just a "that looks tacky" reaction, and I grabbed a handy can of paint and coated it. But thanks!

Yes, why be safe when the police aren't there? Leave that for sissies.

Remember that your safety relies on it not melting nor tearing. So it has to be quite robust.

That would be wonderful, Scott! Please do and keeping track in that thread is a very good idea.

You are being gracious. But thanks.

Gary, I had exactly the same thoughts this morning, looking to identify a connector. Ok, so mine isn't the famous C125, since it has only 7 pins. I'm gonna post my question in a separate thread. But about this discussion, would be nice to: • Look at the EVMT and spot couple of connectors in the involved truck's area. • Go to a "connectors specs" bible, where connectors diagrams are simply sorted numerically. I don't think that any index or table is required. Just each connector drawing (or picture) and the color code of each wire. Gary, your test page looks enough for me. Too bad C125 isn't listed. Jeff - When I'm really old, not just sorta old like I am now, that table would be something I might be able to create. But right now there are more important things to do. Having said that, if someone wants to take it upon themself to do this I'd love to help. I have a number of tools that would come in handy, but it would take a lot of time. So for now it is easier to solve the problem one question at a time.

Beat me by 1 minute.

Jeff - I'm pretty sure that is C240 that goes to the warning buzzer, as shown below.

Wow! That turned out great, Jeff!

Good story, Bill. But I'd never thought you could intermix parts like that. But there's common heritage there that saved the day.

Yes, it is a piece of rubber. Or more specifically it appears to be the sidewall off a tire. Can you find something locally to make one?

You'll buy a socket? But the gearbox has slop in it? Or the steering column? Or maybe you mean the whole steering assembly?

You might be interested in this thread: New/Repro YF carburetor for the 300 six

Yippee!

Bill/85lebaront2 sent me a scan of Weber's 49-page Technical Introduction document today so I OCR'd it and put it on the site. Check it out: Documentation/Fuel & Air Systems/Carburetors, Chokes, & EFI/Weber Technical Introduction. Thanks, Bill! That has a very good overview of how carbs work. And then it shows how to adjust Weber carbs - in ways that we can't adjust most carbs made in the US. But it is interesting to see how various things affect the AFR. Plus it has info on how to adapt carbs to various engines.

Thanks for documenting your process and progress. It'll help others. And your repair looks really strong. But I see what you mean about using a popsicle stick as in your closeup there's a level difference on the edge at the crack and the stick would probably eliminate that if you clamped it.

That tab looks great! And it is a lot stronger, I'm sure.

My sector box nut measures 1.295" across the flats and my 1 5/16" socket fits nicely. But that equates to 32.89mm so a 33mm socket should fit. On the clips, go to the page at Documentation/Driveline/Brakes and then click on the Front Brakes tab followed by the Disc Brake R&R tab. Figure 5 has a closeup of the clips going on the brake pads. As for the rag joint, it looks like they are the same save for the #204 having the bracket and the #206 is w/o the bracket. For a buck more I'd get the bracket. But, is the slop in the disk itself or the splines?

Could be worse - you could be Meat Head.

The factory shop manual section on the power steering box is at Documentation/Suspension & Steering/Steering/Power Steering and then the Steering Gear tab. It'll have the torque specs, usually on the last page. And I'll bet that you've just not torqued it down enough so the pitman arm hasn't gone on the shaft far enough. But I don't know which of those rag couplings is the right one. In fact, you linked to the same one both times. As for the socket, I'll go to the shop in a bit and see if I can figure that out. On the brakes, those are the anti-rattle springs. You can see them in the illustration and the FSM section at Documentation/Driveline/Brakes. They are base part number 2B164.

Very clean. But I'm not a big fan of the grafted-on running boards and fender flares. Looks tacky.

That's pretty similar to what I supposedly had on Big Blue. I say supposedly since I don't for sure that the Edelbrock cam was in there, but it did have the Eddy intake and 750 CFM carb. And the thing pulled like a tractor from low RPM. However, I really don't have a benchmark for what it would have been like originally, so don't know what the gains were. Still, it was strong.

Excellent! Good to know that 'cause the Bricknose plates will be easier to find.