Gary Lewis

Here's hoping it works!

I think the spring goes in, but I'm not certain and none of the documentation seems to say. But I did find this in the Borg-Warner document: "Position oil seal over cover with the side marked OUTSIDE up." No "outside" on yours? And, it says to drive it in flush.

Wow! I've not seen that before. Maybe your speedo cable was binding up?

If the green arrow points to the fill plug and the red one to the drain plug, seems that there’s not a lot of oil in a BW-1345 TC. I’m a bit surprised. Any advice about the oil type and/or quality? No, it doesn't take a lot. There's an oil pump that moves the lube around. I'm running Amsoil Multi-Vehicle Synthetic ATF in mine.

Man, what a pain! This is because you have the smaller tubes with the bigger axles?

I actually don't know what was on the Buick as we didn't have to work on it. However, I remember it as a strange looking carb, so am fairly sure it wasn't an AFB. But it might have been a 4GC as I wasn't around them much, and they have the 4 tubes sticking up - right?

I know the feeling. Woke up at 5:00 thinking of all the things I need to be doing. But since none of them are bothered by rain, and it isn't raining anyway, I went back to sleep. However, I can see how you couldn't.

I wrote that last September, after getting the new, smaller street tires and getting rid of almost all of my tire noise. After another ~5,000 miles the noise was getting worse, so I finally got around to getting to the bottom of it. Turns out it is a bad wheel bearing. There's a lot of freeplay in the passenger's side bearing. The driver's side feels tight (it spins freely, just no freeplay). So I'm debating only replacing the bad one as getting the old bearing off looks like it won't be any fun. I did pull both axle shafts, so I'm that far on both sides. (And this is a Ford 9" axle, for anyone keeping score) A lot of gear lube ran out of both sides, so I know the bearings are getting lube. And the lube was surprisingly clean. Not fresh and yellowish, but not pure black either, and no sparkles. I don't have a drain plug, so I'm thinking I won't pull the third member to drain the rest of the lube, but just top it off with fresh stuff. I know I'm talking about taking shortcuts here with only replacing 1 bearing and not changing the lube. Does anyone want to try to talk me out of that? I'm not going to try to talk you out of replacing a good bearing - with something that might not be good. I'd recommend doing just as you outlined - replace the bad one, put both back, and top it up. On replacing the bad one, you probably already know but you have to break the retainer to get the old bearing off. I've drilled them and I've used a Dremel to put a groove in them. In both cases at some point they pop and can be easily taken off. Don't know which is easiest, but the drill seems to make less of a mess. However, it takes a sharp bit to drill that metal. Good luck!

Ok, my mistake. But it was J.U.N.K. And yes, it started with "ying, ying, ying, ying, ying followed by boom, roar". But the boom took out the power valve and from there the thing ran RICH! Loved that Holley.

I think that was on the family's 57 Buick Century, and Dad didn't have to touch it as that car RAN. It would cruise at 80 all day long with plenty left in reserve. So I never worked on one of those. My '58 Impala w/a 348 had the Will Carter Four Barrel, and that rarely required attention, although I gave it plenty. (Learned the hard way that too high of "float drop" limited the gas inlet flow and the thing ran out of steam way too early.) Sold the '58 and bought the '69 Bee, which had a 3310 Holley on the 383. Remember the slogan "My first Sony"? Well, that was my first Holley and I've disliked them ever since. That thing was a piece of junk from the factory. But we've had that conversation before, wherein you explained that Chrysler required Holley to supply them w/a very lean AFR, which caused them to backfire and blow out the power valves. Man, what a horrible introduction to a new product!

$100ish isn't bad, but the shipping might double that. Someone down under has to need that!

I've now put it on the page at Documentation/Driveline/Wheels & Tires and then on the tab called Refinishing Aluminum Wheels. Hope that makes sense.

True. Thank goodness for the Aluminum Four Barrel.

David - I don't know where that page went. It was on the website, so I need to put it on again. But in the interim here 'tis:

Yes, that really is a good price.

That's not really fair, Holleys make great doorstops 'cause they are so heavy.

Thought y’all might enjoy reading this. Was pleasantly surprised that so many agree with me about how good the QJet is. https://www.hagerty.com/media/hagerty-community/according-to-you-the-most-loved-hated-carburetor-induction-system/?utm_content=sf180735541&utm_medium=spredfast&fbclid=IwAR1DYZP0O6KGJ-YNy6QR5jUmghtOboAwBYBoMX1815wkC2-9Kri1riVgbmY_aem_AUbWKacrdmsV28tceiUlzHT0jLYwTj-hD3jKPZT1bwUMz0wAbxGQ-x2kUaZa1hPIu3BTriYBWsFV8FU_U1AaS3el

Hey Jim, it's super clean in that it is absolutely rust free, but it has been painted which is why it looks so good in the pics. The paint job was not of the best quality, but it still looks pretty decent and I'm going to put some time into cleaning it up with a cut/buff/polish, etc. As per our local regulations, as a 1994 model it will actually qualify for Antique plates/registration in a little over 4 months on January 1st, 2024. It's weird because this generation of truck is not one you look at and instantly think of "antiques"...lol. Do you have antique plates / registration in CT? The two big benefits of the antique registration here is that it's only $25/year as opposed to more like $200 every two years, and that the bi-annual MVI inspections are no longer required. There are some limitations on vehicle use, but I don't think anybody is enforcing the laws on it. Plans for the truck? Good question. Tune-up, and clean-up for now. It's not running quite right, but it does have an error code for TPS fault, and there are two codes in memory both related to O2 Sensor. I need to fix that up and get it to a point where there are no fault codes at all, and that it is running smoothly. It needs fluid changes, and a little bit of wiring work/repairs. It needs new ground cables from the battery to the frame, block, etc. I'll replace and clean all grounds, etc. It needs a new steering wheel, and I want to find a factory chrome rear bumper for it (It currently has the factory roll pan, or valance whatever you want to call it). The interior needs a little work...the dash is all broken up around the windshield. The seller said that it was "cracked due to the Florida sun"...haha, but these are not sun cracks. It may have been in a wreck, I don't know, and I don't really care...and I'm not bothering with a Carfax at this point. It's a 30 year old truck. It is what it is. It rides smoothly, but "spongey"...so it surely needs shocks, and it has no anti swaybars, so I think it would benefit greatly from those if I can find a set. So really just tune-up and maintenance stuff I guess Jim. The old '52 Merc kinda burned me out on big swaps and stuff, at least for a while. I just wanted an old truck to play with and to have for some of the cruise-ins and stuff. Nice! And it should easily serve to play with and take to cruise-ins.

Thanks, Jim. I forgot about the color coding.

Jim - I don't know what temp causes the valve to open and don't see anything in the catalog that says. Jeff - As long as your vacuum cannister doesn't have a leak you will eventually get full vacuum even with the restrictor in. All it does is slow transitions down, not reduce them. If you have a vacuum gauge you can prove that to yourself by pulling the line off the distributor and placing it on the gauge. When the engine starts you'll see the vacuum come up slowly to full manifold vacuum - assuming that your system uses manifold instead of ported vacuum. (Looking at your diagram I see that it goes to the carb, but don't remember if that is ported or manifold. Surely manifold or the engine couldn't speed up at idle if it got hot.) To explain how this works lets discuss a parallel system - electricity. The equation E=IR gives the voltage drop across a resistor which is directly dependent on the current through the resistor. Zero current gives zero voltage drop. But your restrictor is equivalent to a resistor. When the engine starts there is a little bit of air in the vacuum cannister in the distributor, so there's a bit of flow (current) through the restrictor as the air is sucked out, so there's a "vacuum drop" across the restrictor. But when the air is fully out there's no flow and, therefore, no vacuum drop across the restrictor.

Chad - Rene is in Europe and is looking for a way to upgrade his brakes, as explained in his 1986 Bronco Break Upgrade thread. Might you want to discuss this with him? He should have the D44 TTB. Rene - I'm tagging you because Chad/Littlebeefy is working on a brake upgrade that you might be interested in.

You are now on the map.

(Jim - He's gonna be pleasantly surprised. But let him find out on his own. )

Welcome! Glad you joined! That truck appears to be in excellent condition. Or, at least the body is. So shiny and straight. Where in eastern Oregon are you located? I ask because we have a map (Bullnose Forum/Member's Map in the menu) and we can add you with a city or a zip.