Gary Lewis

LOL! No, not Canucks, I would be almost alone in such group, since I feel that we’re not a lot of French Canadians here! Not for “cog wheel” neither, although this could be a specific group for our Trany Maniacs. I was suggesting a sub-group in which we would probably not be a crowd, but maybe more than just me: The Crew-cab Owners Group. Oh, I missed that one.

That's a nice looking Bullnose, Sam. Hope you are doing well.

Well, that reminds me, do we have a COG too? Welcome! Is that a Canuck Owners Group?

Bill - They absolutely do! The one on Dad's 351M was cocked at an angle when I got it, meaning the outer ring had come loose from the inner one. So you are right, the balancer has probably slipped. So I'd bring the #1 piston up on TDC, using either a piston stop or some such, and check the balancer.

Wow! 22 degrees? That is WAY too much for a 400. Did you have the vacuum advance line pulled and plugged when you set the timing? The M-Block engines are prone to run-on when you turn the key off, and too much initial timing seems to contribute to that problem. One thing that usually causes problems with these trucks is cracked vacuum lines. The addition of air increases the idle speed and frequently causes a miss if it is near one cylinder. So I'd check 100% of the vacuum hoses very, very closely. And maybe do the "smoke" test where you block off the carb and puff smoke from a cigar into a vacuum line - like the one to the brake booster. As for a changing idle speed, a cracked vacuum line can cause that as well. But another thing that will do that is a worn casting on the carb where the throttle shaft goes through. That allows the throttle plates to hit the bore differently each time you close the throttle and the throttle will hang before hitting the throttle stop. Anyway, I'd start with the vacuum lines. I think you have a vacuum leak that is causing all sorts of havoc.

I'm a bit late to the party, but it looks like you are making good progress on the carb. And the accelerator pump would be my first place to look regarding the leaning out in transition. However, the metering rod springs can have an effect on that as well since a stronger spring will cause the rods to pop up to enrichen the mix earlier as you tip in.

Congratulations! In spite of the defugalties you have a good outlook. And, speaking of "feeding it the onions", as you peel this onion you are working your way toward a massive plate of Onion Rings!

If you just have a little bounce I’d start out with something like Jim suggested and keep the synthetic wheel bearing grease as the sledgehammer if the other doesn’t work.

I tried graphite and Teflon, but neither took the bounce out. So I used Mobil 1 synthetic bearing grease and that did the trick. And it worked through the winter as well.

Rene - That looks impressive! And substantial! I'll bet it has good bass. As for the plans, would you want to have a page in the Documentation section? You could do a writeup in Word with lots of pics as well as drawings from Solidworks and I could make the page to put them on.

Right, it would be good to know what gear you currently have. You need that info to figure out what gear to put in to correct the problem. Speaking of the problem, if the speedo is off 10% then the odo is probably off that much as well. So if you based your 11 MPG off of the odometer then you may have actually been at 12. And while 11 is pretty good for a 460, 12 is even better!

I can go with this too! However, and this is my opion only; on the crowd favorite stuff, ballots go out only to people entering trucks. One ballot only, no family members given ballots. John - Thanks for the calls today. I think we got this worked out and here's my understanding: Classes: 1966 & earlier; 1967 - 1972; 1973 - 1979; 1980 - 86, & 1987 and later Trophies: One for each class and then one each for Best Engine, Best Interior, Best Modifications, Best Paint, Crowd Favorite, & Farthest Driven Voting: Entrant only, meaning a ballot will be given to the driver of each truck and s/he will get to vote You are going to come up with a proposal for the form we fill out on each truck, and I was to find out what vehicle ID cards I have left over. As it turns out, I have 60 of the ones below, which are 8.5" wide and 5.5" high and are on card stock. That should be enough.

You are now on the map, although I put you at the airport. Man, that street off I-25 to the airport is one ROUGH piece of pavement! Big Blue bounced all over the place on that a few months ago when I drove down from Santa Fe to pick up our son. But it was worth it as we had a great time. Camped at Bandelier and visited Valles Caldera and plenty of other places. This was back in May when the late snow was melting and many of the roads and areas were closed.

So where are you? I ask because we have a map, which you can see in the menu at Bullnose Forum/Member's Map. We can add you with a city or zip.

Oops! I had it the wrong way 'round. As for peppers, I don't use them. However, I love the look of the chile ristras! And you do remember that we took Big Blue out to NM recently and enjoyed it thoroughly!

Welcome! Glad you joined. And glad you got your truck back. Anxious to read Part 2, but am worried about the emissions issue in CA. Is your truck originally a CA truck?

Looks like another photo from a brochure!

I think that is good thinking. Do it the legal way. As for which system, I can attest that going with an EEC-V system has a bunch of wiring, and it can be intimidating. So going with an '86 EEC-IV system would be easiest as it will interface nicely with your existing wiring. And all you'll lose is the OBD-II bit and the ability to "hot rod" the engine as the speed density system expects a pretty stock setup.

Daniel - Nice '96. Jeff - You should connect with your friend to see how his truck is doing. But without being driven things go bad, and then when you do try to drive it lots of things go bad quickly.

Precedent measurements were to find the odometer % error. I also monitored with precision the whole trip fuel consumption: (calculation in metric units): · Traveled odometer = 355.3 km · So real total distance = 353 km · Fuel for this distance = 62.3 L · Fuel ratio = 62.3L/353km = 17.53 L/100km = 13.33 mpg !! Big Bro used to drink around +/-10mpg for the last 30 years. Tune up + new road tires = just under 12mpg. Jumped to 13.33mpg with Vacuum Advance! I'm not at all surprised. However, Big Blue can do 13.0 MPG, and I'm confident I could get more if I were to feed it manually instead of with the speed control. So I think there's more to be had with Big Bro. Do you have the advance set to 10 BTDC? If so I'd turn it up to 12 and give that a try before you hit the road. Listen closely for pinging at part throttle at low RPM. And watch for kick back on starting, meaning it is hard to start.

Wonderful!!! So, how's the economy?

Well done! And glad the speedo is pretty precise. However, that doesn't mean the odometer is accurate. So you should check the odometer against highway mile/kilometer posts to see what you have, preferably over a 10+ mile stretch. Then you can apply a correction to your fuel usage as you go.

Welcome. I think you can remove the shift lever by driving the pin out, but I've not done it.

Yes, you can do that. Obviously you'll have the auto shifter sticking out, although it could be removed if you really care to.