Gary Lewis

Glad you got it going!

I measured the OD of the hose at that fitting on BB and it is right on 2".

Good! Glad to know the IDI's crossmember is dented. That makes it easier. As for the wiring, the harness doesn't have the connectors for the DS-II module? If that's the case, and I can see that it would be as there are also other electrical differences like the glow plugs, then I'd agree on the HEI suggestion. Much easier than trying to graft in the Ford ignition.

What most people refer to when they say "hi lift" jack is one like is shown below. And while I carry one it is mostly to be able to get unstuck when in the back of beyond. For lifting a wheel for changing a tire when on the road you want either the original mechanical bottle jack or a hydraulic bottle jack. I carry one of the latter with a 3 ton rating and it has enough lift to get the wheel off the ground when on pavement. But for use at home I have a floor jack, meaning the kind with wheels. And an aluminum one of those would be nice as my steel one is pretty heavy.

Yes, welcome! Glad you joined. I'm sure you know but you'll need the 460 perches to replace the ones for the IDI. And I don't think the IDI's crossmember is notched for the oil filter, so you'll need to add a remote oil filter. Anyway, where's home? I ask because we have a map (Bullnose Forum/Member's Map in the menu) and can add you with a city/state or zip.

John - I've not gotten to the shop yet to measure the hose size as you requested, but will when the second cup of Joe is depleted. However, I did have a leak like you are having in the same spot - upper radiator hose. It was discussed starting in this post of Big Blue's Transformation, and it appears to have been partially due to the style of clamp I was using. However, a few posts farther down there's this statement, and I can't tell if you have the clamp close to the "ring" or not: Last, I shortened Big Blue's hose by about 1" and put the clamp on the left in the pic in the post right in front of the "ring", and have had no leaks since.

Those strikers should help. And they are the later design that comes apart so you can replace the tubing if you need to do so. And the inner weather strip, it only mounts to the door panel. Originally Ford, or their supplier, stapled them on, but I tried that and broke the panel. Instead I now pop rivet them on with washers as backing plates to spread the load.

You don't even have to install the Zoom app. Their page says: So we can just post the link and PW on here and people that want to join can. Yes, we might get some non-members, but that won't be a big problem. As said, I have to set up Zoom for my Bible class so I know how to do that, although at the moment I'm using someone else's account so would need to set up my own if we go over 45 minutes.

Welcome! If on a phone, you have to manually develop the "Bullnose Forum" Menu to see it: Thanks, Jeff. Hadn't thought of that.

Rene - You might want to read about the PEX Door Striker Mod.

No, 3 liters won't be enough, as you can see from the page below from your 1986 owner's manual. By the way, you can see that by going to the Manuals & Literature page in the menu. As for draining and refilling, on the front diff I don't think there is a drain plug and if that is the case you'll need a suction gun. And when I do it I graft a piece of small hose to the larger hose of the gun in order to reach to the bottom of the case. On the rear axle, if you have an 8.8" it'll have a rear cover you can remove to drain it, but you'll also need a gasket. However the 9" doesn't have a rear cover and you'll need the suction gun again.

Missed this. But from what little I know about TPS values those look good. However, Bill or others would be better to answer.

The owner's manual says "ESW-M2C105-A" for both axles, and "Add 4 ounces of EST-M2C118-A (friction modifier Part No. C8AZ-19B546-A) for complete refill of Traction-Lok or Limited Slip rear axles". Basically ESW-M2C105-A is an 80W-90 that meets GL-5 specs. However, most manufacturers now sell 75W-90 or 75W-140, both of which meet GL-5 specs. I use synthetic 75W-90. 75W-140 would work but it would be stiffer in cold weather.

Thanks for the input - so far. And I'm hoping there will be more. But let me address some of it: Shaun - I fully understand that many, if not most, members are busy with jobs, families, etc. Which is why I'm wondering about doing something for the members that cannot be here on the Friday night when those of us that can make it are gathered. That's the Bullnose Forum night. Shaun & Jeff - We did the video thing a few years ago during the COVID lockdown, and it was a LOT of work for me. I'm looking for something that someone else can do w/o my help, and posting video on the forum isn't the easiest thing to do - although I could get someone up to speed before the show, just not during. So we'd need a volunteer to do this. And in reality this wouldn't have to be at the same time as the show. Nor even coupled with the show. Maybe do this at another time? AmericanSavage - I really don't want to get too far into the technology. As I hope to explain below I'm thinking that either Facebook or Zoom will be sufficient for Friday night, and Facebook for Saturday. John - Here's what I'm thinking: Friday night: We are going to be at our church building and there we have several options. We could use the youth room and its video screen and set up my laptop on either Zoom or Facebook, whichever the members are most likely to use. I'd open things with an introduction of myself, and then turn it over to someone else to have people come up and introduce themselves. Then we could have the members that are on introduce themselves, which we would see on the screen. This wouldn't take much more than the setup, which I do on Sundays to teach a class, and then someone to coach others to come up and do their intro. But it doesn't take any knowledge of technology to do this. Saturday: This would probably best be via Facebook Live, and here's what Facebook says about that: "Facebook Live is a feature of Facebook that lets users livestream directly to the social network platform. Viewers can react, share, and comment during the stream. A recording of the video is also published to the page or profile so it can be watched again later." We'd just have to have someone log onto one of my FB pages, Bullnose Forum or Garys Garagemahal, and then go around talking to people. Just carry the mobile phone around and talk to the entrants and do a walkaround of their truck. This wouldn't be me and wouldn't take any of my time, other than maybe discussing with the person how to do it and that would be before the show. Does this make sense y'all? Please give me feedback, good or bad.

I've not had a lot of need for my 1/4" torque wrench. In fact, I've not had a lot of need for any torque wrench unless I'm building an engine or setting up a differential, and I don't do much of that. But I do put my lug nuts on with a 1/2" drive torque wrench, although that may not be necessary. Anyway, I'd wait until you need one. As for the compression tester, I don't believe in them. I've had them tell me an engine was fine only to find out with a leak-down test it was worn out. So I only do leak-down tests. What is a leak-down test? You bring a piston up on TDC on the compression stroke, pull the spark plug, and thread the air fitting from the tester into the spark plug hole. Then you put 100 psi to the tester and read the amount of air loss that is leaking by the rings, valves, head gasket, etc. There are usually two gauges with a small orifice between them, something like .060". So if there is leakage in the cylinder the pressure drops and the pressure delta is the % loss - if the inlet has 100 psi. And if you listen in the sump you'll hear any leakage past the rings; in the exhaust for those valves; intake for those valves; and you'll see bubbles in the radiator for a head gasket leak. In fact, I've found cracked heads by hearing the sound of leaking air in an adjacent cylinder. Yes, it does require compressed air, but not a lot. And you can see the cost of several different kits here at Amazon, although I'm not saying those are the ones to buy.

Yep, Jim is right about where to find it. I used to give a link, but I found that having people get used to the menu system here is better. Anyway, you are now on the map.

That HVAC plenum was used on both gas and diesel trucks, so the vacuum reservoir was needed for the gassers. I am using the one from the 1990 truck I put on Big Blue. It is nice, but I’m not sure it is a requirement on a diesel. As for the website, I’m glad it is helping others. 👍

Nice truck. Too modern for my tastes, but from everything I've heard those are very strong and tow easily.

It does look nice, and I'm not turned off by the red interior. In fact, even the 302 doesn't turn me off when it is EFI'd and paired with the AOD. However, I find it odd that it has the tow package as the 302/AOD combo isn't good for towing. But I doubt it'll fetch $11K. With the A/C not blowing cold and some of the gauges not working that's just enough to take the edge off.

You are right that the subtraction of fuel from the closed system does mean there's a vacuum. But I would have thought that the vent to the evap system would take care of that. No?

Yes, I thought that the EFI systems had a return. And with that there shouldn't be any vacuum. But if you aren't returning fuel to the tank I can see how vacuum would build up.

As Bill said you may not need a reservoir on a diesel. The gas engines use manifold vacuum and a reservoir is needed to keep things in the right mode when you accelerate hard and the vacuum goes away. But with your vacuum pump I don't see the need. And if you do need one you can just use one of the old juice cans or the ball reservoirs.

I've not tried to repair a dash, but I'd bet it can be done. However, I can say that from my experience most of your interior panels are really different colors from each other, so if you paint a blue dash it'll be different as well. But you may decide to paint the other panels that are close to it so they are the same. The paint colors, SEM paint codes, and a recommended supplier are on the page at Documentation/Specifications/Interior Paint.

Welcome! Glad you joined. That's a nice truck. Glad it is staying in the family. Where's home? I ask because we have a map (Bullnose Forum/Member's Map in the menu) and we can add you with a city/state or zip.

I'm surprised that the EEC-IV doesn't keep the idle RPM constant. It does in the EEC-V system. But if you are happy then I'm happy.