Gary Lewis

Right. Cummins or Fummins. I texted him the flyer and told him I'd just referred someone to his write-up. Hope he can make it. That guy is a wealth of knowledge. First time I met him he told me why my tach was reading low - I had a 6 cylinder DS-II harness with no ground. A few years later Eli was here for the show and told us he couldn't run vacuum advance because every time he hooked vacuum up the engine died. Immediately Paul said "The insulation on the pickup module in the dizzy is bad and a wire is shorting to ground when the plate moves." Sure enough it was!

Hope the TFI module does it.

Yes, glad it worked!

I'm running Accel injectors. There are several on here that don't like that brand, but my engine builder (Scotty the Mad Porter) recommended them and they've worked fine.

Says this: FROM A 1984 f150 I thought they were all plug and play through 86? Is there a sticky here on the repining? I looked and must be blind. It is well hidden. Try our page at Documentation/Electrical/Gauges and then go to the Printed Circuit Pinouts tab. There you'll find a link to HOWTO: 81-86 gauge cluster in 80 model (gauge models ONLY!). That will take you back to FTE where member Paul/Rogue_Wulff wrote a good article on how to make the change. I didn't see the need to port that over here so just provided a link. (That reminds me that I need to contact Paul and let him know about the show. He's not on here very often, but was active back in the day and sometimes brings his 80 with a Cummings to the show.)

Good points, Jeff. And a good graphic. But I think you and I are pretty well on the same page. On the dinner I like the idea of having a few minutes to say hello to everyone. But I was thinking that the rest of y'all who are here could also say hello to those who are remote. And we are in agreement on the show itself where someone, separate from me, could interview the owners and video the trucks and the ambiance. And you are right that we need to keep it simple. And you are absolutely right that it takes a lot of energy. In fact, I need to start hitting the sponsors up for "swag". I COULD USE SOME HELP! But I'm not sure I understand the "prices remittance". I think you mean awarding the prizes. Right? (Trust me, I'm not faulting your English as I know no French.) So yes, we've been taking pics of that. We could do video, but I think still pics work better as you can scroll down the page quickly instead of having to watch a video.

Wonderful!

I remember seeing some things regarding remoting a TFI module on here, so have done some searching and found this hits: TFI Ignition Rehab: I think this is what you are looking for. https://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/Help-Me-With-TSB-Info-tp97717p97779.html Stall/No Start TSB

I'll take that as a compliment.

Ok, if it isn't critical let's wait. I'll send you an email re that subject.

Yes, it sounds like ignition to me as well. And I'd guess it is the TFI module. The '86 EVTM shows the EEC controls the TFI module, and those are a known failure point during these years as most were mounted to the distributor. Later Ford moved them to the fender where they didn't get as hot, but wonky running or not running at all when hot is one of their symptoms.

I've been thinking more about "the show" and I realize that this is both a gathering of the Bullnose Forum members as well as a Ford truck show. As background, the event initially started as a chapter gathering on FTE and then grew as FTE members outside of Okiehoma started attending. But it was still held in our home. Then we started the Bullnose Forum and there weren't as many coming so we opened it up to all Ford trucks and not just forum members, and the venue is our church building and its gym and parking lot. However, there are still two aspects to it: dinner the night before the show, which is essentially limited to forum members, and the show itself which is open to all Ford truck owners. And that brings me to the questions implied in the subject of this thread: do we want to use Youtube, or Facebook Live, or Zoom, or what for one or the other aspects of the show? There are lots of different approaches, and I've thought of several but would like your input: Dinner: As this is the main "Bullnose Forum" aspect of the show we could use something like Facebook Live or Zoom to allow members that haven't been able to come physically to meet those of us who have. Perhaps we could have someone sitting down with each member for a minute or two and have introductions, questions, etc. And through the course of the evening have everyone that wants to participate do so. Show: Here I'm of two minds. On the one hand it would be nice for everyone to see all of the trucks that come, so we could just have someone interviewing the owners of all the trucks that come and showing their truck after they get set up. And/or we could limit this aspect to Bullnose Forum members, but that seems rude. So what if we had two aspects - one for the forum members and another for the others? For the forum members, since they'd have been introduced the night before maybe the focus is on a tour of their truck. And for the others it would be both an interview as well as tour of their truck. But in either approach this might be more of a Youtube thing, meaning not live/real time and would go on my Youtube channel. As said, I'm looking for input and not saying how it should be. I'm just throwing out ideas to prime the pump. So please jump in with your thoughts!

Looking nice! That's going to come out good.

Can you find your timing wheel? I have one and the other stuff to send you.

I don't see why the idle needs to be higher than ~650 RPM. And the vacuum looks good. But I'm not sure that we are saying the same thing regarding the brakes and vacuum. The vacuum valve connected to the brake pedal should be closed when the brake pedal is up and the brakes aren't applied. If it was me I'd try to pull a vacuum on the line going to that valve. If it is leaking it could cause problems with the idle. You can cap that line and test drive the truck. I wouldn't use the speed control, although it would probably be fine. It is just that the vacuum dump is a safety in case the system doesn't kick off when the brake lights come on.

Yep. The idea caught on and my wife is becoming acquainted with the project. Planing a big US counterclockwise loop. 3 weeks wheeling. • Go West really fast • Going South-East easy, following the Rockies, from Montana's Glacier Park to Denver • Stop in a certain September Truck event • Come back home at a good pace, but with a South loop through the scenic Smoky Mountains. Still analyzing but will probably look like this. I'm thinking about starting a specific topic about «Big Bro's Big Trip». EXCELLENT!!!! Yes, please start a thread!

Have you confirmed that your oil pressure and water temp gauges don't work when you ground their wires?

The ones for the Blazer are remote but the ones for your Ford aren't?

In fact, I cut a 9v battery apart to get the connectors when I made my first electronic ICVR.

I like the idea of the Fox shocks. I've heard great things about them, so am anxious to see what you think with all four on.

Gary, you remember this crazy idea? You mean this???? Gary, don't laugh too loud, but I had such conversation with my wife, couple of months ago. She looked at me as if I was really sick.

Found it! In fact our page at Documentation/Electrical/ICVR has a link to it at Dennis Carpenter. Looks like this:

Thanks, Ralph. But I wouldn't put a factory one on. Someone sells a replacement solid state one and I'm searching for it. There's a reference some place on the forum for it...

Home for lunch, so will try to answer some of the implied questions. First, be really careful when replacing incandescent bulbs with LEDs. One reason is that the bulbs our trucks use are industry standards and the reflectors have been engineered to work with them. And to my knowledge no LED meets the standards. The standards include the exact placement & orientation of the filament when the bulb is properly seated. But LEDs do not have a filament, and their diodes aren't in the same place nor oriented the same as the filament. So the light comes out at different angles and directions and that won't work properly with the existing reflectors & lenses. As a test, I put a brand new 1157 in the brand new left taillight on Big Blue and an 1157 LED replacement in the brand new right taillight. At night I turned the lights on and took a picture which showed the incandescent noticeably brighter than the LED. Then I tried the stop lights and got the same results. But I shouldn't have been surprised as the taillights were engineered for an 1157 and its filament placement, not the LED. I've done quite a bit of research about this, but absolutely nothing in comparison to what Daniel Stern, a lighting consultant, has done. You can see some of my results in a thread called Lighting Upgrades. But you should read what I've posted that Daniel has sent me as it is scientifically proven. For instrument lighting there's another thread, and this post in Instrument Lighting & Paint Testing is probably the key. However, you might want to start on the first post of that thread as there are links to the HIPO LEDs as well as tests of them against some others. And don't miss Jeff's recent post in that thread. One thing to be aware of is that the HIPO LEDs are not polarized, meaning you can put them in either way 'round and they'll work. But that is not true of most other LEDs, so when you get your dash together only about half of them will work and you'll have to take the cluster out and turn those around. Plus the HIPO LEDs project to the sides and not to the ends. And in the instrument cluster that's important as most of the light emitted off the end is wasted. I'm not saying I have all the answers. But I have done some testing and have gotten some good and bad results. So I wanted to share those so you don't have to get the same bad results.

I think your plan is a good one. As for the ICVR, if two gauges don’t work it pretty well has to be the problem. So test the oil pressure and coolant temp and if both fail that has to be it since the fuse link must be good. But you will want to have LEDs and a new/better ICVR on hand when you take the gauges out. I’m at our church building now so can’t get the links easily, but I recommend the HIPO LEDs and a solid state ICVR.