Gary Lewis

Here’s Bill’s info sent via email:

Bill - I got your email about various things and will include it here in a separate post to share with the others. But I understand why you sent it via email as it does allow easier printing. Thanks. I got the message on the water pump and pulley. And, I understand about the later harness and PDC being desirable. Thanks again. Jim, please add the water pump and pulley as well as the harnesses and PDC to the list of parts I want. And I’m sure there will be more. I guess I need to create a real list somewhere.....

While it is frequently called a “proportioning valve”, Ford calls it a “dual brake warning switch”. Basically, if you don’t have pressure in both the front and rear brake systems the shuttle is pushed one way or the other and the switch closes and lights the light. The 1981 EVTM says “check for a faulty switch” if the warning is on and the systems are normal. I had a similar problem to yours and read in the shop manual that you should “stand on” the brakes to balance things. I did that, and several other things, to no avail. I finally replaced it with a used switch and the problem was solved. The EVTM was right. 😳

Just saying that it will be hard for both windows to hide behind the steering wheel, so you won’t miss them.

Looking good. And you won’t miss the turn signals flashing. 😉

Glad you got the ZF pan. Was going to ask if you are going to use it, but then realized I’ll have one myself. 😳

Ok. 👌

Jim - No need nor desire for AIR. Guys - Things are heating up. Jim and I’ve been chatting in the background about what parts I want and he’s been graciously pulling part after part off for me. And then the guy called tonight about the 4wd F250 that has been cut in half. Apparently the guy that was to have come to get it didn’t, so he’s offering it to me. Now I’ll have a running 460, complete with harnesses and sensors as well as serpentine system I assume; a working E4OD (& transfer case) with the driveshafts and crossmember; both tanks and fuel lines; the interior, including the OD switch on the dash as well as the shifter; and even another front diff - probably a D44? So, it looks like Bill can get Jim’s AC compressor and I’ll still have everything to go serpentine if I want to do so. But, I need some help from Bill about harnesses: Is the harness Jim has better than that on the ‘90? Why? I’m thinking that using the ‘90 as the donor for almost everything would be the way to go - right? Jim - I certainly want the hydroboost system. And the ZF crossmember as I don’t have a way to look up the later years to see if it’ll fit so will gamble that it will. And I’m sure I’ll still want other parts, so let’s see what all is needed when the dust settles. Thanks!

Perhaps I shouldn’t convert to serpentine. That’s just one more thing I don’t need to do. So, surely I can find a way to use the hydro boost without using the bracket? And then Bill can use the compressor.

Good plan, Stan. 😉

I would like to have that stuff as I may convert Big Blue while I have the engine out. So, please grab the alternator, etc. And that'll give me a 3G. 👍 Thanks!

Congrat's! Tach looks good. 👍 As for the LED's, I suspect he was just fixing a known problem - the turn signal bulbs are frequently directly behind the steering wheel.

Bill says I need an ML1-441. And I think a V.

I have the Sag for Dad's, but BB has a C2. Was wondering how or if to use that bracket.

Cool! What brackets will I need to put it on Big Blue’s 460? Looks like it is set up for a serpentine belt, so will I need all the other stuff to convert to serp or just change the pulley?

No prob as they’d probably be different lengths anyway.

Oh, ok. But you should be able to sell the ZF. As for the PDC, why not. It might be needed with the harness. When we settle on what all to ship you’ll have to set a price.

Jim - Does that truck have an E4OD? And the needed crossmember? Is it 4wd? Perhaps I can buy parts from you, paying you to do the work and to ship them, and save me from having to buy and part a truck? Bill - I haven’t completely given up on the EFI idea, and have been reading about what is involved. In doing so I found something that says you need a “crank position sensor, cam position sensor, Power Steering Pressure Switch, Evaporative Emission Canister Purge Valve, Exhaust Gas Vacuum Regulator, Heated Oxygen Sensor (Pre Catalyst & Post Catalyst), Vehicle Speed Sensor, Idle Air Control Valve, Intake Air Temperature sensor, Mass Air Flow sensor, Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) and a few other various sensors.” Are all of those necessary? Which ones are and can they be had from Jim’s truck?

The modules are just lights?

Two of your pics didn’t come through, but I get the picture. However, on the manifold my plan was to use a Cleveland intake and the Price adapters to mate it to an M-block. Then drill the adapters for the injectors. But, you are thinking I can drill the Weiand intake for injectors? As for hydroboost, yes! Jonathan and I were just talking about that, and he HIGHLY recommends it. I’ll either use it on Big Blue or Dad’s truck.

The gauges reversed sweep direction and changed resistance range with the bricknose styling change in '87. The newer gauges work more like a stepper motor than the heated spring style of the Bullnose instruments. Since the 302 & 351 were available with fuel injection in 1985 I don't think a pump & sender unit for the NOS instruments is going to be an issue. Price Motorsport makes the CS-460EFI, a flange with a Holley square bore pattern, gaskets for both sides, and eight 14mm brass plugs for the 460 injector holes. I see no reason why this couldn't be used in reverse. It needs to be 1/2" thick or more so the bolt heads are below flush from both sides. For around $125 it's not really worth making your own unless you like spending hours laying out a plate and making chips while you could be doing something else important. (I.e., reinventing the wheel) http://www.pricemotorsport.com/html/body_cs-460efi.html Jim - I can’t find a rolling-on-the-floor emoticon either. 🤔 But, if it is convenient it might be a big help if you save the harness(es), dizzy, TFI module, injectors and rail, and plenum. (What else? I don’t know, yet, but maybe the shift lever and its harness?) That would certainly be appreciated. You are right about the fuel gauge and sending unit, but the EFI pumps for a 302 or 351W are a good idea and would solve that problem. 👍 The Price Motorsport adapter looks like it would also do the trick. But, it costs $125, and the manifold adapters into which I’d put the injectors after machining cost $325. And with an intake at maybe $500 we are right at $1000. Add in the cost of the Core Tuning kit and some other bits and bobs and we are approaching $2000. But a Bauman controller for the E4OD costs $800. 😳

We will see. The ‘90 truck is apparently sold as the guy that had spoken for it says he’s coming tomorrow. So if I’m going on with this new approach I’ll need to find another truck. But, I’m getting cold feet as I’d be launching into the unknown, at least for me, and few others have gone there on a 400. But, I have a 400 fresh from the dyno, so adding a controller to an E4OD would make things so much easier. I asked Ben, of Core, if an EEC-V can be set up to do that, and he responded that he will call me. So if it can be, one approach would be to get the truck running that way and add EFI later. In any event, I need to start making progress, and adding new options is sure slowing things down. 😬

Good plan, Stan. Hope you like onion rings. 😉

That should do it.

Cool! Even better. 😉