Gary Lewis

I’ve not heard of running virtual machines on an Apple device, although that may not be what you mean. As for what I want, not need, I hope to do everything I do on my Dell laptop, which would include browsing, Word/Excel/PowerPoint, Photoshop, and maybe even TurboCAD. But, my expectations for the tablet aren’t terribly high, meaning that I don’t expect it to perform all of those things as quickly as the laptop with its i7-6700HQ processor and NVIDIA GTX 9600M video card. On the CPU question, I’m torn between the i5 with its passive cooling, and the i7 with a fan. I don’t want a fan running when I’m doing light work, but what I’ve read says that the fan rarely comes on except when pushing things. So maybe I could opt for the i7 and set the Windows options up for the fan to only come on when I’m running something intensive like TurboCAD - although I don’t know for sure that those options exist on a tablet. Price? I haven’t decided. I’m now trying to find out what the options are, and then will use price to help make the decision.

Jim - The wiper stuff already has your name on it. And the bumper now does. Choose again. 😈

Missed the ball in what way? My reason for changing is that it is impossible to edit this website on an Apple mobile device. And we are out and about enough that I want to be able to edit it. But my Dell laptop is too big to fit in my travel backpack, so I want a tablet.

Was just looking at the pics of the parts truck. Looks like I get another of the mechanical speedo cable/electronic VSS combos.

Jim - Here's everything I know about the parts truck. Advert said "Engine is a v8 460, transmission is a E40d with transfer case, front axle, and some other items. Flatbed and rear axle are not for sale. Can hear it run, and drive it, no brakes." And here are the pics of the outside and the interior:

Dave - I'm not sure I understand your questions. But, let me try to answer. First, you are right that the same switch is used for all forms of heat and A/C. I added a bit to the HVAC/Integral A/C page and the Part Numbers tab that confirms that. Second, you asked for the pin-out on the connector, and that is show on Page 101 of the Electrical/1981 EVTM/Component Testing section. Does that answer the questions?

A smart man once said “progress is good”, and you are making progress. Good! By the way, what parts can you use off a ‘90? I’ll need to get rid of some things, I hope.

Makes sense to me. Hope you get things going so you two can take off for a while.

Yes! That’s where it is. Thanks, David. Speaking of tablets, I’ve been using an older iPad mini, and have just run into a road block with it as it doesn’t display some of the pages on this website. Turns out that is a problem with Safari and iOS 11 as Google’s Chrome displays the pages fine. I confirmed that with an Apple employee, and it is appears to be limited to older iPads as Janey’s iPad Pro displays the page fine on Safari. However, neither iPad will let me edit that page on Weebly, whether I do it via a browser or the Weebly app. So I’m planning to convert from an iPad to a Surface Pro running a full-blown Windows 10 environment. Does anyone have any experience with those devices?

By far the best way to find to find out is to weigh it. That’s because there are so many variables, like accessories, tires, etc. But Dad’s truck weighed about 4250 lbs when it was stock, and it should have been comparable to yours. That was with minimal fuel in it and nothing in the bed. So, if we add the camper we get about 5000 lbs. Then add two adults of 175 and 125 lbs and we are at 5300, and that leaves you 700 lbs for fuel, gear, etc. Should be adequate.

I had a fully self-contained 9 1/2’ camper on a 1972 F250 with probably an 8000 lb Gross Vehicle Weight Rating. It handled it well, but with a full load of gas, water, and gray water it was loaded. So I’d make sure you don’t overload things as it be easily done with a 1/2 ton truck. How much does that camper weigh? Does your truck have the camper wiring?

Right - I forgot about the leaf springs in the front. Yup, no radius arms. Anyway, thanks again for the suggestions. I’m sure it will take a combination thereof, so I’ll be back to get more of them after the weekend.

Jim - I’ve see that view, at least once, but don’t know how I got there and can’t find it now. Have things corrected themselves?

Ok guys, thanks for the input. I’m going to see if I can get the short thing on the lift as that will make working on it much easier. Thanks again.

I’m not sure the bigger, brighter LED’s will fit under the filters, but they might. However, I wouldn’t use a filter with anything but a white LED. And since the LED’s are available in a range of colors, unless you want the specific color the filter gives you should be able to get close with just the LED.

I’ll check what I have when I can, probably Wednesday or Thursday. And, I’ll check the headliner trim as well. But it you don’t see something from me by Friday please remind me.

Jim - You are a prince! And I certainly appreciate your efforts. But now I have sooooo much work to do in order to use all of those parts. I’ve arranged to go get the ‘90 on Saturday, unless the weather is bad. I’ll take the neighbor’s trailer as mine isn’t ready yet, although I’ll call tomorrow to make sure that’s the case. And I’ll pull it with Big Blue. That way I can use BB’s winch to pull the truck on. Hopefully the guy will have welded on to the rear of the frame the L-shaped legs he suggested, and I’ll take a couple of skates for them to ride on - and ratchet straps to ensure they don’t come off. Then there’s the question of how to balance it on the lift to part it out. Normally I put the front arm behind where the radius arm attaches to the frame, and the rear arm at the furthest aft flat spot on the frame. But that spot doesn’t exist on this truck, and with that 460 up front I’m afraid the back edge of the radius arm will be behind the center of gravity especially when I drop the tranny out. One thought would be to pull the engine first, but the tranny has to come out with it if I don’t put the truck on the lift and drop the tranny that way. But pulling the engine/tranny combo with the cab on seems difficult at best. Maybe I need to pull the cab as the first step. That would then give me access to the engine and tranny from the top, making it much easier. So, pull the hood, fenders, radiator and support, then remove the wiring/plumbing/linkage that go into the cab, as well as the instrument panel and seats, and pull the 4 bolts holding the cab. Pick that up with the lift, and then go to work on the rest of it. Suggestions?

Jonathan - As shown below, the yellow/white wire comes from the fuel gauge to the selector switch. And from the switch a dark blue/yellow wire goes to the front sender, and a yellow/light blue hash wire goes to the rear sender. And since the ICVR supplies power to the gauges, anything seen on those wires should be pulsing.

Fog lamps were available on these trucks, and the part numbers are shown on the Fog Or Driving Lights page in Electrical. And they show in the sales literature. For instance, you can see them on a truck on Page 10 in Literature/1981 Literature/1981 Ford Pickup. And they show as an option on Page 18.

Yes, 2000 for a cold fast-idle isn’t unusual. And yes, it couldn’t be good for the engine. But if your engine gets along with lower RPM at each step then that has to be better.

Jonathan - I understand the urgency to get it ready for an excursion with your wife on her break. Planning to take the trailer? As for the speedo gear, this page (http://www.garysgaragemahal.com/speedometer-drive-gears.html) seems to say that both the 4-speed T-18 and the transfer cases use a right-handed drive gear. So the same driven gear should work, I would think. On the fuel gauge wiring, I'll take a look and post some wires to check. On Sunday, October 22, 2017, Ford F834 [via Bullnose Enthusiasts] <redacted_email_address> wrote:

I may have a full set, but if I do I doubt the pieces are all the same color. And, I'm not going to be able to check for a couple of days. So you may get a better offer first. 😉 On Monday, October 23, 2017, PetesPonies [via Bullnose Enthusiasts] <redacted_email_address> wrote:

There are Wallops there? Been to the Wallops in England, but didn't realize there are some in Maryland. Anyway, looks like you are getting close. Thanks again for all the work. 👍

Jonathan - Some days are like that. And then some days go like yesterday when Jim started pulling parts for me and the guy called to say I am getting the ‘90 F250. You just learn to have fun on each and every day. 😉 On the fuel gauge, the pulsing output of the ICVR should be easy to follow. I’d start at the switch on the dash, which does switch the gauge like you said, and see where it goes from there. As for the speedo cable, have you tried spinning it with a drill down at the t-case? That’ll tell you if the cable and speedo itself are working. If so, maybe you have the wrong type of gear? The types are shown here: http://www.garysgaragemahal.com/speedometer-driven-gears.html. On the blower, is yours integrated A/C? If so I should have an extra control if that is what you need.

Bill - Thanks for the response. I’ll get my head around this some day - I hope. 😬