Gary Lewis

I can't answer the question of when the Schrader valve was installed. However, I did put up the part numbers for the fuel manifolds/rails (Fuel Systems/Carburetors, Chokes, & EFI/EFI) and you can see that there was a two-piece design for your '85, and then a one-piece design for 1986. But, there was another change for 1987 and following. So, I can't tell if they introduced the valve for '86 or '87.

Could still be ignition, but fuel seems more likely. However, I've forgotten what all you've done, and as this is a new thread I can't tell. But the choke staying on, or partially on, might do it. And a failing ignition would do it.

I'll bet there are some that would like the Banks turbo unit.

Ok, just making sure. Ford's terminology is somewhat odd, and 3-speed + OD is more obvious.

Pete - Ford would call your tranny a 4-speed with overdrive. That's as opposed to a 4-speed w/o overdrive, like the NP435 or T-19. Just explaining how to read the catalog.

Obviously I'm not Ray, but I agree with what you said. And, if was me I'd find a later factory rail that has the valve in it.

I looked at Big Blue today and it isn't 3530 that has the button poking through for the key release. It is 3790, and it is plastic.

Ok, thanks. Unfortunately it is the known F3 that has the stripped exhaust bolt hole. I'll do some cleaning tomorrow and see what the passenger's side head says. Looks like the valve cover has been leaking a bit so it is greasy.

Thank you. Now to find out if I have two of them. So, they'd be fine for a stockish build?

Yes, it is round. And the package says it is an E0TZ 7277-H, which is the right one for an 80-83 4-speed w/overdrive. Don't know more than that.

Yes, someone's been there before. So, what are the differences between E7's and F3's? And are the F3's reasonable to use?

Was just looking at the head w/the stripped bolt hole and discovered that it has casting # F3TE 6090-JA. That would suggest these are 1993 heads, but it is a 1990 truck. Did they "pre-date" parts? In other words, did they put a 1993 casting number or engineering number on a 1990 part?

I moved the E4OD out of my new truck and onto an engine stand today. Here's a shot mid-transfer: And here it is on the engine stand, where I discovered that it had been painted from "above". In other words, the part you won't be able to see when it is installed was fairly well painted, and the part you can see from below had a very thin coat. So, to answer Brandon's question, I did have to paint the tranny to make it match the transfer case as well as to put a bit more paint on the bottom. And, the engine stand certainly facilitated that project. I put on about one full can of Eastwood's Detail Gray. Here's the bottom view: And here's a top-side view:

Good idea on the wire brush, but I have the blast cabinet, so here's a before blasting but after 2 hours in Evapo-Rust: And here's after media-blasting. But the part is back in the Evapo-Rust for the night. As for the inserts, I'll have to see if the head guy repairs threads. If not I'll explore kits, and the Keensert ones would be my preference. However, the installation tool is about $60 alone on Amazon, and the Keenserts themselves aren't available. Hmmm.

Well spotted. But strange. The sheet is a 5124, which is correct for that kit. So, apparently that answers the question - the harness will plug into all years of Bullnose dash harnii. As shown below, the earlier kit is an E1TZ-A and the instruction sheet would be a "5000".

Interesting. Did some reading on Keensert and found this: And this chart:

It technically isn't for 1980 - 82 trucks as the plugs are different between the early and late clocks, as Jonathan recently pointed out. However, since this is the whole kit, including the wiring harness that plugs into the main harness, it may work on earlier trucks. I don't know.

Amen, brother! So, now I'll have to have the head repaired, or do it myself. A friend told me of a guy that does nothing but heads, so I'll take them to him for a valve job, seals, etc. Maybe he also does helicoils.

Mid-day update. I bought the Evapo-Rust and have the manifold/EGR tube combo sitting in it. Had to saw the EGR tube off in order to get it in a container small enough that I'd have enough of the chemical, but this looks like it'll work. The instructions say to immerse the part in the chemical for 1 to 12 hours, but I'm thinking that 24 hours won't hurt. Will pull it out tomorrow. And, while pulling the manifold off I got something out that tells me there's been a problem before. Someone enlighten the others.

Interesting. The first ones are clearly E0TZ-13064-A and E0TZ-13064-B, but according to the catalog there were no E0TZ-A or -B's, just E2TZ-A or B's. Or E0TZ-L & M. But his box certainly says "E0TZ-13064-A" and "E0TZ-13064-B". All that means is that the catalog is wrong, yet again. Apparently they were replaced, probably by the E2's, w/o "r/b" being noted.

They are chromed plastic.

You have access to the D2D? Can you use it to help folks on here, or is it just for the dealership's use?

Rear Counter says that these dealers have them: http://www.rearcounter.com/D9TZ-7A185-A-parts194203.html. You can click on the Request Pricing link for each and they should email you right back with the price. As for the truck, I'm glad that a transmission change makes it useful to you. And we are here to help you get it going.

And, I forgot this post in For Sale, Trade, or Free To A Good Home. Anyone need an in-bed spare tire carrier?

Advert isn't correct. They will fit 1980 - 86, but they are correct for 1982 - 86, as shown below, which comes from the Exterior/Exterior Trim & Moulding page. 82/86 F-U100/350 — w/bright grille option (RH) E2TZ 13064-A (LH) E2TZ 13064-B chromed-trimmed w/dark charcoal paint