Gary Lewis

His part number is wrong. He said EOTZ-176882-D and 81-D, with one two many "8's". But I think they really are E0TZ 17682-D & -E. One pic shows the E0TZ 17682-D but not the other. Anyway, I think these are the original Type 5's for all Bullnose trucks, as shown on the Exterior/Exterior Mirrors page.

Guys - This forum is a bit different than some in that you have to "subscribe" to things in order to get notification that something's been posted. So, if you aren't subscribed to the eBay & Craigslist Finds folder then you will have missed all of the activity today. Our resident eBay guru has been busy finding stuff for us, having posted 4 things in the last hour. So, go check it out. And, along the way, consider subscribing to things so you'll get notifications and won't have to go looking. I think a lot of posts on here get missed since you have to take action to get notifications.

Looks right:

I second Eaton. I haven't purchased springs from them, but I have purchased the spring "liner" that keeps the leaf springs apart. They didn't have it in stock but ordered it in and sold me what I needed. In addition, they discussed with me the problems with my plan of powder coating springs - the temp goes too high for the temper of the spring. So they recommended painting them, which I'm doing.

Those are good ideas. I've not used those products, but will pick some up and try it. And, I still have the heads on Huck's engine so plan to bolt the manifold back on before working on it with any vengence, so that should both make it easier as well as protect the manifold. Thanks!

Sorry Steve, I say "Sounds like a plan, Stan" to everyone. And you have the other names correct.

Sounds like a good plan, Stan.

Gerry - We like to keep these introductions to just that, introductions, and do the troubleshooting, part-finding, etc in the main part of the forum. Given that, I started a thread for you called 300 Six C6 Kickdown Linkage and included an illustration, part number, and the fact that I've found some of them NOS. You might want to go there and see what you think.

Gerry/84f15033yrowner is looking for the bellcrank for the kickdown linkage for a C6 in a truck w/a 300 six. I've realized that my page on Driveline/Transmissions/Automatic Transmissions/Kickdown Linkage has a really hard to see illustration of that and, worse yet, didn't have the part number. I've rectified the part number problem on that page, and it is D9TZ 7A185-A, and I will rectify the illustration problem. But, in the interim I've included the to-be illustration below. Gerry - Please confirm that that is the part you are looking for. If so I've found 5 at various parts stores and will send you a link to them.

Wasn't me. Those were pricey but nice.

Jonathan - That's good news! And, it fits with what I've been reading in the new links in the resources folder. In other words, there are lots and lots of different orientations for the reservoir, different return sizes, etc. But the basic pump is the same. So, it should be easy to find a combo that works. As for the cooler, I'm not in a hurry. But one of the Durango ones could work if hose barbs and hoses were used. Granted tubing would be better as it would help cool and wouldn't deteriorate due to the heat, but it is much harder to run. In any event, I am not in a hurry. So figure your part out and just keep and eye out for "the right thing" for me. And thanks.

Bill sent me a couple of pdf's regarding Saginaw pumps, which got me to wondering what I could find. With some searching I found one of the two he sent as well as a couple more and put them in the Suspension & Steering folder in the Resources section. (Bill - I'd put the other one there if I knew where to find it. I have found it in a slightly different guise, but prefer the one you sent.) Also, along the way I organized the Suspension & Steering folder as it was loooooong and hard to fathom. Please see what you think.

Welcome, Gerry! You are the only "Gerry" I know save for the one with the Pacemakers. Ferry Cross The Mersey! Where are you located? Someone else may be close to you and you may be able to help each other. As for the truck, wow! An original owner. Cool! On the bellcrank, you should start a thread in the main section about your truck and we can all pile on about how to find that part. Meanwhile I'll peruse the master parts catalog looking for it.

I was hoping to just replace the v-belt pulleys with serpentine pulleys. No change of brackets and no holes to drill.

Big brother is certainly watching. But, I thought Handel was a composer, not something that needs broached. Anyway, that was cool. I'd never seen a broach at work, so I now have a better understanding of the operation. Thanks for sharing.

I think the Schrader valve with the existing regulator is the way to go. However, there is no reason you can't run a fixed-pressure regulator ahead of the factory one. You'd just have to make sure you provide a bit more pressure to the factory one than it will ever be asked to supply since there's a little loss across a regulator. But it would work - although I don't see an advantage in doing so.

I've read that there were many different Saginaw pump capacities as well as pressure settings, so I agree that I wouldn't want to use one from a car on an F350. But v-belts aren't bad. I'm planning to run them on Dad's truck since there's no serpentine setup from Ford for the M-block. However, since I have two sets of serpentine 460 pulleys, why can't I put them on an M-block and convert that way?

You are right, this would be angle pieces. But maybe the back-to-back approach would work. As for "We all know that with something like a bandsaw blade you want *more* than two teeth engaged at one time or you are going to strip them." I didn't know that until ~10 years ago when I took a community college class on metalworking. (Nor did I know about center drills and lots of other things like that.) I had lots of hands-on as a kid, and Dad could fix anything, but he didn't have the machine shop training that really helped me - albeit later in life.

Jonathan - It does look like a lot of the bracket would have to be cut away, and that would weaken it. In your pics do you have it about where you think it needs to go to get the pulley lined up? Maybe Jim is right that the other reservoir would work. Or maybe the remote reservoir?

Sometimes it gets down to what you want to do rather than logic. If there's a way to use a broach for these holes rather than buying a mill then that's the way I'd recommend. But the minimum 1/2" engagement is a concern. However, can he stack the parts and broach the hole in two at one go? In my case I'd always dreamed about having a mill and a lathe, so bought the 3N1 - and was disappointed. So, in case you are thinking of going that way let me explain my issues. First, the drill press part of it is poor. There is just so little stroke on the quill, and no height adjustment on the table, so you have to build up the height of the part on small bits/holes, and for large bits/holes you can't get the part in. The mill comes next, and it is acceptable for small things. That's because there's still no height adjustment on the table so you have to shim the part up from the table.. Plus, the design of the machine leaves the head somewhat flexible, and that makes the cuts less than accurate. I couldn't rely on the machine to cut the amount I dialed in, even on small cuts, and always had to measure and fudge. On my big lathe it'll cut what you dial in. Best was the lathe. Still not as good as a larger dedicated lathe, but it usually got the job done. However, there was still too much flex and cuts weren't as accurate as my larger lathe, even if you made small cuts. Then there's the room issue that Jim spoke of. The 3N1 is the best in this aspect of any machine, but you still have to have the machine well away from the wall. That's because many parts are too long to go on the table left/right and will have to go on front/back. Anyway, just my thoughts.

Bummer! The broach may be a better approach as you can get a square hole. But, if you are considering going to a mill, let me tell you a bit about my experience with a 3N1 machine - Harbor Freight's #44142. It worked, but wasn't as useful as I expected. My learning was that a dedicated machine is better than an one-device-does-all. Also, whatever the cost of the machine you can expect to double it with the tooling you'll need. Maybe not right off the bat, but it won't be long.

From at least Florida to Oklahoma.

Alfie - I'm confused about the illustrations I'm seeing. I think you need either E0TZ 3790-A or -B depending on if you have a tilt or fixed wheel. You can see on the illustration below, which is the third one on my Interior/Steering Column page. Note on the illustration that it says it is for the tilt wheel. But you can see that the part is also used on the fixed wheel. But it is only used on the manual transmission vehicles, which is why I think it is the piece you need.

Got it. Thanks!

Dave - Can you paint them hanging up horizontally? Would that allow good enough access or do they need to be vertical? Bill - You said "If you are doing away with the EGR, I would cut it off flush, then use a hacksaw blade to split it." Cut what off flush? The line/tube? Split what? And are you saying yours broke where I have the yellow line? If I'm not going to get it out, what's the best way to seal it?