Gary Lewis

Why not use a remote oil filter? I have one up in my attic with a label on it saying "Brandon's".

So you are building an engine on Saturday?

I added another page today: Electrical/Sending Units. Has the part numbers for the oil pressure and water/coolant temp sending units, as well as a link to the fuel level sending unit info.

Bill - I'd read that somewhere Ford changed all of the oil pressure gauges to essentially idiot lights, but didn't know when. On the digital gauge front, one of my goals is to install an Arduino to read a 2nd oil pressure and water temp sender and display that via a digital readout. In addition I want to also have a volt meter. If I can find the right display I'd like to put it in place of the clock in the three windows above the radio. That way I won't need the under-dash aftermarket gauges. And, I can set a limit for oil pressure, water temp, and voltage where an alarm will sound and the display will flash.

Welcome back! Hope you are now well. And, thanks for the tips.

Apparently, based on the catalog saying to use the switch for 1980 - 86 trucks, the TSB applied to the whole Bullnose era. I'd like to find the actual TSB and post it in that section.

I've now created a page for this: Electrical/Sending Units. Still need to do the temp sender, but the oil pressure and fuel level tabs are done.

I think I understand. D4AZ 9278-A is a switch. It is not a sending unit. And it appears that Ford used it in TSB #88-5-14 to "fix" a low oil pressure problem by a slight of hand. Read about it here, as in many other places. Basically that substituted a variable-resistance sending unit with a 6 psi pressure switch and a 20 ohm resistor. So any time the oil pressure was at or above 6 psi the switch would close and the gauge would read mid-scale - regardless of how much pressure there is.

Here's what I've found, and I'm really confused. Note how D4AZ-A is both for a light and a pressure gauge. And that E4ZZ-A is for a 1987 also, and I know those gauge systems were different than the Bullnose gauges.

You are right, the D4AZ-9278-A is for a light. My bad! However, I don't believe that E4ZZ-9278-A is the right number for his truck. As shown below that's the right one for an 1988 and later, which uses a different gauge system with a reversed and different resistance range. Let me get the new page up and I'll be back. EDIT: I'M WRONG AGAIN!

Looks like that is something I don't have on the website. Plan to later today, but in the interim:

There were two different lower mounts - two hole and three hole, as I described in this thread on FTE. But within those two categories the mounts themselves didn't change for well before and after the Bullnose era. As for the rivnuts, the Ford mirror kit I got for my '72 F250 back in the early 70's came with nuts that pressed in and then expanded, which could be done from the outside. Or, you can pull the door panel and use regular nuts and washers from the inside.

Thanks. That's good to know.

I've not used that kit, but I do know that if the striker doesn't line up well with the latch it won't release easily. If it is either high or low such that it raises or lowers the door when it closes it puts a lot of drag on things, and doesn't release well.

Which fluid did you use?

Good point. And the joint was brazed, so a brass plug should be fine. Thanks.

Bill - Hadn't thought about the manifolds glowing red, but they do. I've seen it. And, that's above the temp that Teflon tape melts - 500F. Ok, bad idea. Thanks. Jim - Maybe I'll use a brass plug. From what I see brass melts at 1700ish, and red on a manifold should start around 900 degrees. Surely a manifold won't get to 1700?

Had quite a bit of good luck today. First, the heads match. Both are F3TE's. But, initially I didn't have quite as good of luck with the EGR tube. Just a little bit of torque caused this. Looks like it twists off because that's a brazed joint. But, that turned out fine as I checked and the ID of the part that sticks out is about right for a 3/8" pipe tap. So I cut that off flush with the part that has a serious affinity for the manifold, threaded it, and ran a plug in. You can see there's about 1/32" left for the plug to go in, but I'll wait until I'm ready to plug it for the final time, put teflon tape and paste on it, and run it in the last little bit. Last, remember the discussion about oil pans for Big Blue? And what Huck's pan might be? Well, I pulled the dip stick tube out. Looks like the newer o-ringed one to me. And, here's the pan. No nut. The only thing that holds the dip stick tube in is the attachment to the exhaust manifold - on the bolt hole that's stripped out on the head.

Notice that for this piece in 1980 - 82 the catalog doesn't show any color but Charcoal. But for '83 it does show other colors. And at the top of the table it says "• Available for service only in Charcoal" Then go to Specifications/Interior Paint and in my table you'll see that all the colors changed for 1983. My guess is that they had so few of the early colors available by the time this catalog was printed in '94 that they took out all of the old #'s, like the one in eBay advert, and substituted the E4TZ-A Charcoal number. That made it simpler because the earlier blue, tan, and reds were different and didn't match the later colors.

Actually, no. I need an older catalog. The electronic one I have is the 1994 version, and by then Ford took many of the numbers out since they were NLA. But the earlier versions I have in microfiche do turn up things from time to time.

Probably something like "Oklahoma Kid - If you'd get that viewer down and sort through the microfiche I loaned you then you'll find that on the 1988 version of the catalog the part number is there."

Here we have a part clearly labeled E3TZ 1060230-A and yet it doesn't exist in the catalog.

Bill - I think this thing will deserve to be in a museum. I once thought I'd never have a "trailer queen". Perhaps as a truck it'll be a "trailer king"?

You beat Jim to it. John Keeline, the paint/body man, was down recently and we discussed the plan to put the cab back on the frame. He's quite invested in this truck and I'm thinking that if it is close I'll ask him to come down and help me. However, if I chock the wheels it should go back from whence it came. And, I have fender covers and towels that could be used to pad the front of the bed, so it shouldn't be a problem.

Thanks, David. I just have to get Huck out of the shop and off to the scrap metal place and then I can start installing the front end on Dad's truck. Most of the parts are powder coated or painted, so that should go fairly smoothly. Then comes the real fun - lift the cab off and install the engine and tranny as a unit. Along the way I'll have to prop the back of the tranny up while I mark and drill the holes for the E4OD-specific crossmember that also came from Huck. Then the cab can sit down and it'll look like some progress has been made.