Gary Lewis

Guys - This year's Garagemahal Ford truck show is scheduled for September 15th, which is only 6 months away. (Remember, this is for all years of Ford trucks, not just Bullnose.) Given that I've reserved a block of 10 rooms at the Skiatook Osage Casino/Hotel, which is about 2 miles from the show, and that's by far the closest hotel. The rates I got are $119/night as opposed to the standard rate of $159/night. And the nights for this offer are the 14th and 15th of Sept, although you don't have to stay both nights. Note that there are only 33 rooms at this hotel, so we have 1/3 of the hotel blocked. And, right now there's plenty of availability to get more of the rooms if these fill up. But, since the 15th is also Skiatook's Pioneer Day celebration it is likely that the hotel will soon fill up. And, this offer is only good through the 15th of August, so to get the reduced rate you have to book by then. Also, all 5 of these rooms have two full-sized beds. That way if any of you want to share a room you can. But, if someone wants a king-sized bed I'll have to give up one of these to get it, so let me know, Here's the reservation info the hotel sent me:

I guess that was where my question was headed with the injectors....wasn't sure if there was enough air flow to be able to take advantage of a larger injector. As much of a headache as a carburated motor can be. I'm also learning the restrictiveness in making "easy" power with the factory EFI setup. Oh well, that's probably a good thing since this is supposed to be a driver. Yours is fuel injection, but it is an early-style system. It is called "speed density" because the computer only knows the throttle opening, air density, and air temp. With that info and the computer's tables it assumes it knows how much air is entering the engine. But, if you change things, like install a bigger cam, high-flow intake or exhaust, etc then the tables are no longer correct and the computer isn't happy. In roughly 1996 the trucks got a mass air flow system, and with the MAF sensor the computer actually knows how much air the engine is ingesting, so you can change the cam, intake, exhaust, etc and not have a problem.

That's the brand that Adam at Core Tuning recommended. Said he has a really expensive AFR system and he's tested several brands of gauges. AEM varies a lot in its reading, but the Innovate is accurate.

Yep. But larger injectors really aren't going to help a stock or even mild 302 since the 351W used the same injectors.

That certainly is rare. And, it is the right part number for 1982-86 F-Series and 1982-85 Broncos, as shown here: Interior/Instrument Panel Name Plates. Seller knows his/her stuff.

The dryer can have a fair bit of moisture in it, so can utilize the time with a vacuum to pull it off. The rest of the system should give up its moisture quickly. And now is the time to paint the engine if you are going to do it. O'Reilly's house brand brake cleaner does a good job of degreasing.

Type in D8OE vs E7TE on a Google search and you'll see a lot of opinions. But the main difference in the heads is combustion chamber size. The D8's have a 69cc chamber and the E7's have a 63cc chamber. Working from memory, which is very dangerous in my case, that will take your compression ratio from about 8:1 to 9:1. And that's a good thing. So, if you have the E7's I'd put them on after having the valves an guides/seals done. However, the GT40's and GT40P's are even better heads. So before you sink the money in machine work on a pair of heads see what you can find. Here is an article that may help: https://www.americanmuscle.com/cylinder-head-upgrades.html

Good! I'll probably make another one for my own use.

That's Brandon's video of his upside-down M. And I don't see anything strange. Was just posting it to help him.

Are you saying that it shifts worse with the new fluid and the old shifter than it did before?

I've read that port-matching the intake to the head is good. But there's not much else to do. And, with a speed-density system you really can't change much even when you do pull the heads. And the front and rear seals are a pain. I like to use RTV for them and not the included gaskets. Put a 1/4" bead of RTV on the walls at each end, and using cut-off bolts for guide pins lower the bottom plenum on evenly. Tighten down the proper bolts finger tight and let it sit over night for the RTV to cure. Then come back and torque the bolts down to spec. But the walls and the plenum have to be CLEAN or the RTV won't stick to them.

Adam at Core Tuning told me that my AEM meter isn't a good one. Don't remember what they recommend, but Bill has one of them. As for a dual setup, he said to put the sensor in one bank or the other, but not in the combined stream. One bank will run leaner and it will confuse things.

Here's Brandon's video. Y'all see what you think. And Bill's right, there's a keeper or clip part way up the oil pump drive that keeps it from coming out. Best to put it in from the bottom. As for the oil slinger, the illustration I have here (Engines/Windsor Series) does show a slinger as "6310". However, the catalog doesn't have a part number for one for a 351W.

You mean on your clips? Or the vacuum diagrams? Or both?

Edit your first post by clicking More/Edit Post in the upper right, and change the title.

Yes. But, which one of us is going to use it first?

I would hope that you could find stuff to meet your needs in a salvage. However, in 1996ish when Ford went to mass air flow they used a wye and merged the two hoses into one so they only had to have one MAF sensor. So if you want to stay with the twin-hose setup you'll need to stay with the speed-density system that was used through 1995, I think. Or, you could use the later system not hook up the MAF sensor.

I have my 302 pulled out and disassembled now. I'm actually dropping all the pieces off at an engine shop tomorrow morning. Getting them to go over the short block for me, and assemble the rest (GT40 heads, Comp Cam kit, Edelbrock intake, etc). I was going to assemble it myself, and I was going to do like you and prime the oil system with a drill once the engine was back in the truck. However, now that I'm getting a shop to assemble and break-in/dyno for me, it's kind of a moot point and I forgot about it. What is this dummy distributor you were going to use? I guess that would work fine, as long as you remove the drive gear from the distributor shaft. I know there are purpose built shafts for priming, but if you have an old distributor you can use, that should work just fine. Make sure to check rotation;). Yes, make sure the cam drive gear is off of the distributor you are going to use to spin the oil pump.

If the vacuum pump gets you 90 days you'll have plenty of time even if you find a problem. Leaving the pump running won't tell you if you have a leak, so I'd bring it down to as low of a vacuum as the pump will handle and then close the valve and turn the pump off. Check the vacuum after an hour, then another time frame, etc to find out how much it leaks.

I think MAPP gas would do it, assuming your torch is like mine. But it would take quite a while. However, if it doesn't shift well then it is a moot point.

How long do you have to "rent" them? It is best to hold a vacuum for 24 hours to prove the integrity of the system as well as to boil out all the moisture. But I can't speak to the oil question.

I added the two pages to the NP208 service instructions, so they are good to go.

Exhaust manifold.

I really like priming the engine via the oil pump. I'm not sure it makes much difference, but I like having the engine in the vehicle so you can tell when the pressure comes up on the gauge. However, the drill will slow dramatically when the pressure comes up, so that may be a moot point. So, in the vehicle or out doesn't matter, and if it is easier for you to do it out then go for it.