Gary Lewis

Man, you are on a roll!!! 84/87 E-F-U150/350 E4TZ 9A818-A Electronic - w/M/T also use 9A819 84/87 B-R 4&6 AH Electronic Includes the following details which are also available as loose service items 1-E4AZ 9E731-A Sensor assy. 1-E4AZ 9C735-B Servo 1-E4AZ 9D757-A Regulator 1-E4AZ 9E799-A Reservoir 1-E4AZ 9A840-A Wiring Harness assy. 1-E4TZ 9C888-A Switch engagement Balance of components are to be improvised, or if unable, procure from Specific Cruise System, Inc. Since all applications do not use a valve body (9C727); it is not included in kit. Refer 9C727 in normal area of catalog.

84/87 F—U150/350 - - w/factory installed speed control PN E4TZ 9A837-A Marked E4TB 9D809-AA

That's a PLATE (RING GEAR) for a Borg Warner transfer case.

Gary, Just curious, does the MPC break it down further as to which trucks got the 8.8 and which ones got the 9"? I did see somebody mention on FB one day that there was a determining factor. Something like all 2wd F150's with 351w engines still got the 9" rear diff until 1986, as did all of the F150 4x4 trucks with the Non-OD 4spds? And all other F100/F150's 1983 and later got the 8.8? Cory - I suspect whatever someone has said about which trucks got what was a very generic answer. I say that because it was anything but simple. The pages below is from Ford's 1986 Light Truck Book. And you can tell 8.8's from 9" axles because the 8.8's have a 3.55 ratio and the 9's have a 3.50 ratio. But as no one will every find these pages via a Google search, I'm going to attempt to translate them into words. But, if I messed something up PLEASE correct me! And, by the way, I have pages from the previous years that provide the same info. But, as you can see, this is complex and I don't want to spend the time to figure out if there were differences between the years. From what I see, all F150's got the 8.8" except these trucks which got 9" axles: 4x2: 49 States 5.0L (302) EFI V-8 - 4 SPD MAN, either regular or limited slip, and the 9" was standard on them 49 States 5.8L (351) HO V-8 - AUTOMATIC, with the 9" being optional on the regular diff and standard on the limited slip diff High Altitude 5.0L (302) EFI V-8 - 4 SPD MAN, with the 9" standard on both regular and limited slip diffs High Altitude 5.8L (351) HO V-8 - AUTOMATIC, with the 9" standard on both regular and limited slip diffs 4x4: 49 States 4.9L (300) I-6 - 4 SPD MAN 0/D: 9" optional on both regular and limited slip diffs 49 States 4.9L (300) I-6 - 4 SPD MAN: 9" optional on both regular and limited slip diffs 49 States 4.9L (300) I-6 - AUTOMATIC: 9" optional on regular diffs and standard on limited slip 49 States 5.0L (302) EFI V-8 - 4 SPD MAN 0/D: 9" standard on both diffs 49 States 5.0L (302) EFI V-8 - 4 SPD MAN: 9" standard on both diffs 49 States 5.8L (351) HO V-8 - AUTOMATIC: 9" standard on both diffs California 4.9L (300) I-6 - 4 SPD MAN 0/D: 9" standard on both diffs California 4.9L (300) I-6 - 4 SPD MAN: 9" standard on both diffs, except that the SuperCab got the 8.8" diff in both cases California 4.9L (300) I-6 - AUTOMATIC: 9" standard on both diffs California High Altitude 4.9L (300) I-6 - 4 SPD MAN 0/D: 9" standard on both diffs High Altitude 4.9L (300) I-6 - 4 SPD MAN: 9" standard on both diffs, except that the SuperCab got the 8.8" diff in both cases High Altitude 4.9L (300) I-6 - AUTOMATIC: 9" standard on both diffs High Altitude 5.0L (302) EFI V-8 - 4 SPD MAN 0/D: 9" standard on both diffs High Altitude (302) EFI V-8 - 4 SPD MAN: 9" standard on both diffs High Altitude (351) HO V-8 - AUTOMATIC: 9" standard on both diffs

The 8.8 rearend showed up in 1983. I'm not sure if it was in ALL 1983 models, but I know that is when they were introduced to replace the 9" rearend as the standard. The 9" was used through '86, as shown here, but the 8.8 was more common as of 1983: A partial VIN is stamped on the top of the frame roughly above the passenger's feet. But I documented that in the Dad's truck build if you want to get an exact location. And you can probably read the VIN tag by removing the dash pad and using a light and a mirror. My brother was able to do that when I sold a truck with the wrong windshield. The Windsor perches were used for 255, 302, and 351W for all years. The A/C controls were 1980 - 82 and 83 - 86, as shown on the Swapping Controls tab here: http://www.garysgaragemahal.com/hvac-systems.html

Big Blue's GVWR is 8600 lbs IIRC. So yes, those are HD springs. In your case I'd seriously consider air bags rather than heavier springs. You can keep the ride you have and then level things up when you put a load on.

That's what I expected - that the hoses from that application wouldn't be quite right. However, in my case I'm using the pump and hydroboost unit from a 1995 SuperDuty, so am hoping that those hoses will fit correctly. Anyway, thanks. If I have to have something made I can use your approach.

Looking GREAT! Well done! I see a Red Head steering box in there. And the Eddy AVS2 carb. Plus the Sag pump from the other thread. Quite a transformation.

It is so wet here that we have water standing where its never stood before. And more rain in the forecast. On the rear springs, there are several F250 springs. The ones on Big Blue are way too stiff. You don't want them! They are the same ones Bill/85lebaront2 has on Darth, which is a crewcab F350, and they don't flex at all on bumps. When the engine for Dad's truck was delivered Tim placed it on the rear of the bed and partially on the tailgate. In other words, at the point where all of the weight was on the rear springs. And that 400 just barely flexed the springs. It is sprung way too stiffly for my likes, so I plan to pull some leaves out and go with air bags to level things up when/if I have a heavy load on it. The hope is that by doing so I'll get an acceptable ride out of the truck.

Good story, Alfie. Can't wait for more installments.

Well done, Alfie! I'm in the middle of Big Blue's transformation and am going hydroboost. I have the Saginaw pump, but am wondering what hoses you used?

Interesting! One of Dad's cars when I was young had something like that. He had a '35 Olds, '34 Ford, a Henry J, and then a '54 Plymouth. Don't know which one, but one had an add-on heater.

Ahhh, OK. I've heard about that system, but have never laid eyes on one. That may explain it. It's a nice little truck. I like the simplicity of it. Not sure it will fetch the asking price, but if one is not in a rush, might as well start high! It would be easy to put A/C on it.

That's a very nice truck. But it may have the Hi-Lo HVAC system. One notch above heater but one notch below A/C. Had the vents in the dash and no compressor. The HVAC controls don't appear to have an A/C position, which fits. But that's really hard to tell.

Another short day, but I did get the shift linkage lined up properly. But first, about the detent ball and spring. I couldn't find a way to put the spring in, then the ball on top of it, and put the linkage in w/o the ball jumping off the spring. So I finally gave up and drove the plug out. That let me get the linkage in place, but only after quite a bit of fiddling. It is almost impossible to shift it when it isn't completely together so getting it into the exact position shown above, with both rollers in the right places and the detent ball in the right place takes some effort. But I think I'm there. However, I haven't put the ball and spring in yet as there's confusion over which of the two springs to use. So I need to figure out where the other one goes and make sure I get the right one.

Frank - These guys might not know what "barefoot" is, but as an ex amateur radio operator I certainly do.

Wow! Thanks Gary! I will let you know if I need this. Jim- I assume the E4OD’s must have a parking brake, I just don’t know if it’s the same one as on the ZF-5. As I recall ZF actually made that parking brake. On the well situation, results vary widely around the valley. Some folks up against the mountains don’t have to go too deep if they are in exactly the right spot, but they do have issues with low flow and poor quality. In my neighborhood, I’ve heard people going 600-800 feet or so, and I’ve been told to count on 1,000’ and be prepared for the the possibility that I may invest $15K+ and only hit wet sand. I think the investment would be worthwhile, but I want to build a home first. Many residents do the math and find it cheaper to have a commercial hauler bring it for the rest of their lives. I prefer to be self reliant and I don’t like anyone coming through our gate and being around our dogs etc., not to mention I can haul it myself for half the price even considering the gas for 275 gallons at a time. We have enough stress without being paranoid over every drop. Water at the standpipe is actually cheaper per gallon than for residents with street meters, I just have to get it to our property... I'll take measurements and pics to be ready, just in case. And, I have a Bricknose pedal assembly, although it was from Huck and he had an E4OD so it probably won't have the right casting for a manual tranny.

I think I worded my question wrong, but thanks for confirming what I was already fairly certain of;). I'll just ground one side of the VSS. Easy as pie. Thanks Gary. I've only had one cuppa, so while I am even normally easily confused, I am more so now. But glad we got it worked out.

Yes, I'm using the 1988-1991 style VSS that plugs into the transmission, and then the speedo cable plugs into it. I've confirmed that the Ford VSS output is fine for the aftermarket cruise, but the instructions only tell the installer to splice into one of the existing wires to the VSS (and this is what I have done with the cruise system previously). The problem is, my truck does not currently have a VSS, and therefore no wires going to it. So I know the VSS output is fine, I just wasn't sure what to supply it with. I looked at the EVTM as you have shown above, and was curious where the ground wire comes into the Amplifier (C717) is that tied directly to the ground in the C727 connector? That black ground wire is labelled #57 from the ground to the amplifier and then back out to the VSS. I was just trying to confirm that all I needed to supply TO the VSS was ground. I'm not 100% sure I understand your question, but black is almost always ground, and Circuit 57 is ground. But the "727 connector" bit throws me. It looks to me like 727 is just a normal 2-pin connector passing the two wires. So I thought maybe you meant "717", but its pin-out shows a connection for #57 and another for #57A, and I assume the latter is from the VSS. So I'm guessing that the speed control amp itself passes a ground signal back to the VSS to complete the circuit. In any event, I believe you are safe grounding one side of the VSS and sending the other to your aftermarket cruise system.

I'm missing something. The bore and stroke of the V6 is 3.81 x 3.39, and the 302 is 4.00 x 3.00.

Jonathan - I can make the hydroboost pedal. I have pedals laying in my way and could put a pin at the right spot on one of them.

Gary, I just wanted to circle back to this thread and say thanks for the info. I just ordered a factory clutch switch myself and it was the last piece of my aftermarket cruise installation puzzle. The aftermarket companies sell generic clutch switches, but this one being a factory piece that just pops in place and is a 2-wire N/O makes it perfect. One quick question though. On the VSS there are two wires. One is the pulse output to the controller obviously. The other is just tied to ground, correct? I'll be using a later style VSS that bolts to my 5spd trans, but I assume they operate exactly the same as the cable mounted Bullnose VSS? Welcome. Glad it helped. On the wiring, the black wire may be ground, but it is tied to the speed control amplifier, as shown below. And I assume with you that the VSS that mounts to the tranny/t-case operates the same, but I don't know and I don't think I have any documentation that tells. My later EVTM, the '95 one, shows a rear axle mounted VSS and it goes to the PSOM first, so is different. But the one you are talking about has both a cable and an electrical output - right?

I think that would work. Some of the dealer-installed A/C systems used flexible ducts.

Wow! WOW! WOW! Time to move!

There's a long bolt at the top of your picture that the bracket rotates on. Once you loosen whichever bolts are holding the bracket from rotating then you remove that long bolt and the one or two that keep it from rotating. Then the whole bracket and pump should lay over to the side. BUT, don't lay it over very much or you'll have a mess with fluid running out the fill neck.