Gary Lewis

I have a pair of those as well as a console, although a different console than would be with those, all upholstered to go in Dad's truck. And I have the base from the 90's trucks that bolts into the regular cab trucks. Further, I've reworked the tracks for the seats to bolt into the base such that the whole package is a bolt-in - although the seat backs may hit the rear window so some shimming may be required to adjust the angle. All of that is written up verbosely back on FTE and there are links in my Dad's Truck Build document in the first post of that thread. But I've thought seriously of installing them in Big Blue if we are going to take him on long trips and/or off-roading. The comfort of the seats would be welcome on the trips, and the arm rests might be really appreciated to hold onto. And while they are very much the wrong color, if I like them well enough I might get another pair and put them in blue.

No, but my son and his wife are lawyers. Perhaps that's like insanity - it is hereditary and you get it from your kids?

Vic - You can't run a Saginaw pump on these trucks w/o getting the right brackets. And the best source for those is on the E-series vans, which did run the Saginaws. As for this being the same pump, yes. But it may be slight different in the accessories. For instance, I note that the return for this one points down at ~6:00 where one of mine points at about 10:00 and another points at about 8:00. That is all application-dependent. And, there are differences in the pressure valve included, and that's something I have no way to quantify. But I can say that those who have swapped a Sag from an E-series van into these trucks have found them to work quite well. What are the differences? One is a quieter pump - where the C-II that comes on the F-Series trucks growls and whines, the Saginaws are quiet. Another is that the Sags don't puke fluid if you turn the wheels with the engine off. But maybe best, they are said to give a better "feel" to the steering.

If it is chucked in a drill and is erasing tarnish is it a pencil? It looks to me like it is a wooden extension for a rubber abrasive.

Well done, David! FYI, the guy that knows what he's talking about in there, Matt/Archion, is related to someone on here. His last name is Vose, and is the son of none other than Bill/85lebaront2. Janey and I met Matt when we drove Dad's truck back to Delawhere to deliver furniture - before I pulled it down for the restification. I had a spare engine analyzer and Bill had a spare DS-II test kit, so we swapped via Matt.

I think David is right. When I was having these problems with Big Blue it wasn't consistent. Sometimes it kicked back and sometimes it didn't. But it appeared that it was temp related. Then when I swapped ignition modules, with no other changes, the problem went away.

I know, right? I have an overwhelming urge to do so...lol, but must hold back because I have parts now that I don't need;). Gary, are those high back bucket seats factory? There's a switch/lever on the seat down on the bottom... Captain's chairs were an option on the Supercabs and Broncos. 1985's Rapid Spec price sheet says: Captain's chairs — cloth wholesale $415.49 suggested retail $491.70

The Subie has had connection problems with the headlights since not too long after it was new. I initially re-bent the connectors and used the grease and that held for a while. But a few years ago I replaced the sockets with the Dorman over-the-counter ones, the ones with pig-tails and boots. And they are now giving problems. So I ordered ceramic ones from Daniel Stern. Total was $26.25 inc shipping. And in the course of that email conversation he sent new guidance on lighting that I hope to use to replace what I put in the Lighting Upgrades thread over 2 years ago. I've asked him if he's ok with that, and if he is I'll share it. (I'm thinking that may need to be a page in Documentation/Electrical/Lighting rather than in a thread where there are replies that make it difficult/improper to change out the text. Thoughts?) As for what lighting upgrades to do for Big Blue, my thinking is that I'm going to hold off spending that money right now. I don't need any headlights with the truck on the lift, and I'm spooked by what is happening in the stock market. So I'll wait and see, and can always put the stock headlights back in when I get ready to drive the truck.

Did not realize who that guy was. Had to look it up. No, Daniel Stern of Daniel Stern Lighting. I have a pair of Dorman sockets on the '01 Subaru, and while they are better than the ones that came on the Subie, I just had to wiggle the low beam to get it going again. Daniel has ceramic sockets, which is what I want to use. By "solenoid" do you mean the Cole Hersee smart battery isolator? My only question is where on the driver's fender liner to mount it right now. Hopefully it can be at the aux battery and the big yellow wire will terminate on it. But, I just haven't scoped that out yet.

Man, there's lots of good stuff there. Is that a tilt column? Grille? Bumper(s). Headlight doors. Bucket seats or captain's chairs? And on and on and on!

Don't have any Deoxit. But as it is a connector, if my efforts don't work I can pull it apart and Deoxit. And I'll know quickly - if the alternator doesn't charge or the voltmeter doesn't work I'll check the connector. On another note, we got word today that our daughter, SiL, and grandtwins are headed back from Nicaragua to Tulsa. The embassies are pulling all non-essential personnel out of foreign countries, and the non-profit our SiL works for follows their lead. Why do I say that here? Because in about two weeks I'm going to have better things to do than to play truck. So, I'm going to be pushing to get this thing to a stopping point. I'm thinking that getting the electrical system as "done" as I can get it is a good stopping point. And to do that I need to: Finish the PDB wiring Install the radiator support Wire up the headlights, which means I need to order in the sockets Run the large yellow wire between the PDB and the driver's side, which means I have to figure out where to put the smart battery isolator Wire up the trailering wire on the driver's side So, I have work to do! But tomorrow we have friends coming over, so not much will get done - if anything. Perhaps I can get the headlight connectors ordered. Any suggestions? (I sent Daniel Stern a note today to see what he has, but he's not yet responded. May just go with the Dorman ones.)

Luckily the terminal came out of the PDB w/o the retaining pin breaking. I think I got about half of the wiring done today. This includes circuits 37 & 38 with their fuse links replaced by fuses, circuits 65 and 654 to the voltmeter, and circuit 904 (the light green/red wire) to the alternator. That wire goes to the Key On relay as well as the alternator itself, and since the charge cable had a connector on it for that wire, I pulled the mating connector off the across-the-radiator harness from the '96 CA-spec 460 and used it. You can see that in bottom-center of the pic. Note that circuits 65, 654, and 904 run through C610, which you can see in the top-center of the pic. However, I cut the large yellow wire for circuit 37 off that connector. Also, C610's blades were tarnished, so I improvised to clean them. (What you can't see is the drill turning that "tool".

I'm crimping to hold the wires in the ferrule long enough to solder them in. But, since I used my ratcheting crimpers meant for that size of wire, it is a good crimp and might be adequate. However, "might" doesn't fit with my plans, so I solder them to ensure they will be good connections.

As Bill knows, the terms "heavy load" and "light load" are subjective, and what is "heavy" for one vehicle and load might be "light" for another. Big Blue, with the 460, 1:1 top gear, and 3.55 rear gears would pull enough vacuum at part throttle when towing my heavy car-hauler trailer with a vehicle on it to ping. I know 'cause I pulled the vacuum advance hose and plugged it and the pinging stopped. But w/o a trailer he didn't ping with the vacuum hooked up. So if your engine pings then do as Bill explained and adjust the vacuum advance. If not, don't worry about it. But, you'll need that exhaust tamed in order to be able to hear the pinging. But younger people and women hear pinging better than men, and especially old men.

Interesting. If I needed a Supercab I'd be considering that one.

It's already at $6000 now, and with no reserve will potentially go higher. My bad. I didn't see it is an auction.

I'm not Bill, but I'm 99% as old as he is () and I sure remember the counter-long set of books. Anyway, glad you found the vacuum leak. And 1 3/4 turns out is pretty good. As for the distributor curve, yes it probably needs to be adjusted. I say "probably" because if you don't have pinging then I'm not sure I'd worry about it. And if you do only when you are under a heavy load, like pulling a trailer, you should be able to fix that by pulling the vacuum advance line and plugging it. This all has to do with the way EGR works. Inert gas from the exhaust is added to the air/fuel mix via the EGR valve during times when you are just cruising, which is usually when you have high vacuum. The inert gas slows the combustion process, so they advance the timing via the vacuum advance in order to compensate. But if you block the EGR plate off there's no inert gas, so the combustion process goes much more rapidly and you can have pinging. So if you have pinging you can do one of several things: Retard the initial timing, but that will hurt your MPG and performance at all times Adjust the vacuum advance. Many of the vacuum advances are adjustable. If yours isn't then one from Crane Cams would solve that problem. Pull the vacuum hose and plug it if the problem is only during times when the engine is under heavy loads.

I don't know anything about them. But if it works it would be extremely helpful to someone running the EEC-IV system.

I missed that, Jim. Glad you caught it. On the BW1345 there wasn't a locating ball I could find. The output yoke captured the drive gear between itself and the bearing's inner race, forcing it to turn. So perhaps the nut on the output yoke is loose?

Came across another single wheel 350 this morning, this one a little closer to you Shaun. This one an '86. https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/134743237955231/ Not a bad truck at all. Shame about the right rear corner.

Yes, it is a very nice truck. But I'm not sure it'll bring $6k. Probably should, but with no flash and no A/C. Sure is clean. Even the calibration label is still on the valve cover. And the seat is amazingly intact. David - Thanks for calling attention to the rear fender flares. I don't like them. I think the aftermarket ones look much more integrated.

Yes, I do believe all of the "splices" were done with pressure welding. And they are NOT coming apart, even 30+ years on. But that's not in my bag of tricks, so I'll both crimp and solder the big wires. One worry I had of using the butt splices was of them folding right in the middle between the two wires if the wires are bent much. But there's a hole in the middle on the ones I'm using and I'm sure with having pre-tinned as well as feeding plenty of solder in through the hole the center is now one solid mass of solder. It isn't going to bend. And I will admit that the wires have solder wicked up them so are stiff. But they will be in a harness with plenty of other wires, will be wrapped with tape, will be covered with convolute, and will be secured to the fender liner. They aren't going to be moving.

At halfish price that's not bad.

Looks great, Scott! Do you have heat shrink around the rods back to about where they'll hit the back of the cubby? That's a great idea. As for all the wiring, that's where things start getting tricky. But it looks like you have that sorted.

The "fuel injected version of a chihuahua barking at you". That's funny! I'm looking forward to the sound of one or two Magnaflows on Big Blue. Haven't decided if I want duals or a large single.