Gary Lewis

I'm thinking it would look just like the fog light switch and fit in the pocket, retaining the bead:

Not to hijack this thread, and I can move these comments if you want, Scott. The tank switches are ~1" wide, and the pocket is ~4 3/4 wide so 4 switches would fit, if we could figure out the mounting. That's because they have that arm hanging off of them, as shown below. Someone can surely figure out how to do that? Perhaps remove the cover, drill the spot welds to remove the arm, then put studs on the cover? And that way they might work for fog light switches? As for the height, the two switches below are farther back than we'd want as the knob is almost inside the pocket. So that works. Or, if we could just find a switch that has an arm like that and has reasonable mounting? Boy, it would look factory!

Ok, I'm officially "stuck" on the re-clocking of the alternator. (Pun intenteded. Or, maybe 2/3 of a pun? ) Whacking with a mallet didn't work. Heating it to 150F in the oven and then whacking and prying didn't work. The issue is that the windings are stuck in the front case half. And there's no good way I can see to pry them out with the diode bridge installed. If you pry where the top/vertical yellow arrow is, which is pretty much where they are stuck, what you are doing is moving the black heat sink (red arrow) back. And since it carries the diode bridge you are then using the soldered joints (4 yellow horizontal arrows) and the copper wires to pull the windings out. I've done that all I dare do for fear of breaking the solder joints. The only way I can see to do it is to un-solder the bridge, which will allow the heat sink to come out as it is fairly loose. That will then give me access to the windings and I might be able to tap & pull to get them out. Help!

I LIKE IT!!!!! I wonder how many I could squeeze in? Hmmmmmmm......

Nice truck! Tell us more about it? And, put some of that info in a signature. See the Signatures tab on the page at Bullnose Forum/Forum FAQ's.

Please don't call me Mr. I'd rather be "one of the guys". But I'm glad you got it figured out. Well done!

I think the factory shop manual section here will help: Documentation/Driveline/Brakes. And then go to the Rear Brakes tab followed by the Drum Brakes R&R tab. Then go to Page 8. Does that do it?

Chain - As said in the email, I've not had this problem. But the only place the ATF could be getting into the speedometer cable is through the speedometer gear. However, I didn't realize that your truck is a 4x4, and the speedometer gear doesn't plug into the transmission on a 4x4. Instead it plugs into the transfer case. The pic on the left is what the speedo gear looks like, and the pic on the right is where it goes in the t-case. But, you should check your t-case as it may have more ATF in it than it should, which could cause this problem.

Welcome! Glad you joined us. Where in TN? We have a map (Bullnose Forum/Member's Map on the menu) and I'd be happy to add you if I had a city. Speaking of a city in TN, our kids used to like in Nashville, and we've been through the state many times. It is beautiful!

I like that approach - not solving a cooling problem, but just seeing if it will work and what you think of it. 👍

So, is your EGR hooked up correctly?

I think the red spacer might be loose without the O-ring in place to hold it. The original bearing has an o-ring on the inside of the inner race to keep everything snug. You are probably right. I wonder if a piece of heat-shrink over the shaft would keep the red piece in and make the bearing turn?

I got a bit lost on the EGR valve. But first, your air/fuel ratio and engine idle RPM was probably adjusted to accommodate the extra air being admitted via the bad brake booster. So now you need to screw the two idle mix screws in 1/2 turn at a time until you get the engine to idle best. And then you need to adjust the idle stop screw to get the idle speed set correctly. You can see those screws here: Documentation/Fuel Systems/Carb, Chokes, & EFI/Motorcraft 2150. On the EGR valve, you are talking about vacuum line, right? If so, it should not have vacuum at idle as that will cause the EGR valve to open. Maybe you have it connected to the wrong port?

Christian - Sorry, but I don't know what you mean by "Does that say in the second Picture from the top?" Please say that again, differently. As for the axle, that should be a Dana 60 or Dana 70 rear axle and I'm not familiar with taking them apart. Hopefully someone else on here is and will comment. But, I see that I do not have the instructions on the site for that rear axle or, for that matter, those rear brakes. Let me see what I can do about that later today.

Well, I see he has the 1973-1979 version on Ebay for $65 bucks, so it will be that much or more I'd say. I think the Bullnose version is a bit more elaborate. I wonder if it will work with both manual and auto transmission columns? Manual for sure...but Auto?... The nice thing is the replaceable common bearing, and of course it would be much more rigid. My only concern was how to make sure the shaft actually turns the inner race (instead of turning inside the inner race). I think what I'd do jam some RTV in between the flats of the shaft and the inner race, and it would probably lock it in place as good as anything. It's not like there's any rotational force on it. Yes, it is more elaborate, so may be more. As for the auto transmissions, does the shift linkage go through this? I thought Scott indicated that it does. On making sure the bearing rotates, I had hoped (assumed?) that he would pick a bearing that is the same thickness as the current bearing. That way the red spacer would fit and clip into the other side of the bearing. But something has to fill in around the shaft as it isn't round. Like this:

Cool! If my rejuvenation of the bearing with the dried grease doesn't last I'll probably order one of these. Looks like it is much more substantial than the factory bearing. And, these can be changed out from the bottom on a manual transmission column. Wonder what he will charge?

I'm waiting and watching!

No. They are in the top two! I'd have to swap wheels to take it home. But for $2k, I like it!

Looking good. But, when you want to upgrade come talk to me about a quick-change tool post. And boring bars that take the same carbide inserts as your cutting tools.

You might want to read how I modified the floor in Dad's truck: http://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/Dad-s-Truck-Build-tp7104p27425.html. That shows the rivets and adhesive approach. And yes, nab the pan. But on the Bronco seats, you might want to read my posts here: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1123180-dads-truck-build-277.html#post13639026.

Hadn't read the posts. Interesting. As for whacking with a mallet, I'll try that. The stator hasn't wanted to come out, but I haven't whacked the shaft.

I've been using this how-to. I can't get the windings out of the front to turn them. And since the rear case has to go down in alignment with the windings, they have to come out of the front half and then turn. Right?

Nice! 351HO.

I don't remember what we used, but I could check later. However, I will say that the threads were pretty precise.