Gary Lewis

I agree with everything Jim said. But the clunking has me wondering about the pivot arm bushings. If they are worn it will clunk on bumps and when you hit the brakes, and it will be difficult to keep it going straight.

CONGRATULATIONS!!!!! I know you are EXCITED, and I don't blame you. We were all hoping that someone like you would buy it, and to have a member on here be the one is wonderful. I'm looking forward to following its reintrucknation. When do you graduate? IOW, when might this start?

I like it! I'll second the motion, go for it.

Right, pics make a huge difference. This one tells me the guy doesn't really care to sell it. If he needed the money he'd get good pics. But it isn't a bad truck. Not its fault the owner is faulty. (Or, is that Fawlty? )

Bill! You did it! It really does look like it is red/yellow and C106 is said to be black 4-pin connector. Exactly what this one is. It ties the A/C Clutch Cycling Pressure Switch to the A/C High Pressure Cutout Switch, and they collectively tie the A/C on/off switch on the dash to the clutch. But since I'm going to use the 85's controls I don't need that one either. Given all that, the only wires that need to cross the radiator support are the large yellow wire that ultimately will tie the two PDBs together, and the wires from the passenger's side to the driver's side headlights. Yippee! That simplifies things a bunch. THANKS!

I'm glad it helps. Good luck!

Bill - It is a '96 CA-spec harness, the one Mark/Dyn Blin found in Sonoma. Yep, that's the purge solenoid connector, C171. And, the middle one does appear to be C139, which the EVTM says is a 4-pin connector. So I'll bet you are right - it is the charge indicator light. But, I don't know what you mean by "The right hand one is probably a dirty red and is possibly the starter control." Do you mean the red/light blue that pulls in the starter relay? It isn't that as I also have that. Thanks!

Got the new brushes in the mail today, which have now been installed so the alternator is ready to go. And the following notes as I find things: The red/light blue wire in the wiring harness coming from the driver's side in the EFI harness isn't needed. It is essentially the same as the Bullnose one as it comes from the ign switch, through the clutch switch, and then to the start relay for a manual. Fuse Link F, which goes to the brake controller, doesn't need to come from the PDB on the passenger's side. There's a 30a fuse, #21, in the EFI PDB that just serves the brake controller. So for the interim either roll up the wire and keep it on the driver's side and put the ring connector from the fuse link on the to-be smart battery isolator where the big yellow wire will terminate. The only wires that I think needs to come across the radiator support are those to the driver's side headlight and the big yellow wire hot wire between the PDB's. Having said that, there are three connectors and their wires that come from the driver's side and end on the passenger's side that I have not been able to identify. The one with the yellow insulator has a red wire and a green/black/black wire. (Two black stripes.) The one in the middle has a green/brown (orange?) wire. And the one on the right has a brown/yellow/yellow wire. And, I realized today that I almost have twin PDB's. Here's they are, with the EFI one on top in both pics. The EFI one only has one stud, and that's to take the large yellow cable from the other side. And the other PDB has two studs, which allows for a megafuse between them and the alternator goes to one and the battery and big yellow cable to the other.

Do tell!! I've been checking the ad every day waiting to see if/when it went somewhere, hoping an enthusiast would get their hands on it. If it gets chopped up, lowered, and de-XLS'd it will break my heart...lol. I promised the guy I'd not spill the beans. But, I didn't promise that I'd not tell that there are beans to be spilled. He said he'd tell y'all.

I hope somebody buys it and restores it. If it ends up getting all chopped up it would break my heart...lol. For only $2000 I'd buy it myself if it wasn't on the other end of the continent. The advert says "This Item Isn't Available Anymore". A birdie tells me it is going to a good home.

No, I have an Odyssey Extreme 31M PC2150 for the main battery. I had one of those for the aux battery, but then just before I shut the hood I realized it wasn't going to clear.

Wow, it has been a while since I added to the site. But Christian is trying to figure out what he needs to do to work on the brakes of his truck once he can get it out of storage way up in northern Norway, so I added the Dana 60 & 70 section from the shop manual. And, while I was at it I added the General Axle & Driveshaft section as well as the 9" section. (Need to add the 8.8" awa the Sterling sections to make it complete.) Documentation/Driveline/Axles & Differentials and then the Rear Axles and the Instructions tabs.

There's no way I know of telling from that pic, but it is supposed to be either a Dana 60 or a Dana 70. So I've put up the whole section on Dana 60 & 70 rear axles from the shop manual. With that and the section on brakes you should be good. Documentation/Driveline/Axles and then the Rear Axles tab plus the Instructions tab, and then finally the Dana 60 & 70 Axles tab.

Yes, I'm using the factory aux battery mount, at least for now although with the EFI air cleaner housing and PDB that may be too much for the driver's fender area. And the battery I have there is an Odyssey Extreme 34-PC1500. And the LWH is 10.86 x 6.77 x 7.88". But that's overall, so if you need different measurements let me know.

Thanks. Check Big Blue's thread in a mo..... I'm wet, but got the measurements.

I agree that it is too small. So I really need to think through this BEFORE finalizing the plan. One reason is that the trailer feed now goes from the passenger's side across the radiator support to the trailer brake controller. But that makes no sense when there will be a large PDB on the driver's fender with a serious feed to it from the main battery. So, if there is a Trailer fuse in the '96 PDB then why not use it and dispense with the fairly-large wire running across the radiator support. I'll check that out. Also, there's a wire in the harness running across the radiator support that triggers the starter relay. I need to figure out what it does and if it is needed. If so, I probably need to connect it as I'm doing this PDB.

1. Yes, it should have been but now is. Well spotted! But please check that I did it correctly. Thanks. 2. Not that I'm aware of. I wish there was a way. What I've done is to email them w/a permalink to the post. Or, in cases where I have their telephone #, text them.

My first cuppa hasn't kicked in yet either. But it is starting to, slowly. I do have info that may well help as the 460 was EFI'd before the end of my MPC, and little changed before the 460's demise. I've purposefully made these pics as large, filewise, as possible to maintain as much detail as I can. So tell me what part numbers you need from this. Here's the E-Series: And here's the F-Series:

Just starting my 2nd cup, but my cups are large ones...lol. I've already been out to get my bagel and Timbits for the dogs. Yes, so I was wondering what intake parts interchange either between E-series models, or will any parts from the F-series transfer over? Any commonality in intake parts between a 351 EFI van and one with a 460 EFI? I was reading that the lower half of the air filter housings are all the same, but that the upper part and ducts between it and the throttle body vary between engines. It doesn't matter all that much right now anyway...all we have at the moment is a handshake deal...this thing is not in my driveway yet. But...seeing as how everything is being shut down around me, I might have some free time to go hunting around the junkyards coming up... I don't have documentation, like the MPC, for anything after 1989 so can't give part numbers. But from my limited experience I think your info is correct - the bottom of the air filter housings interchange between the engines, and probably from F to E-series. But after, or above, that they are different. Having said that, I do have some F-Series 460 EEC-IV intake air stuff. That should be dual air tubes running from the top of the air filter housing to the throttle body, where the EEC-V has incorporated a MAF sensor so it is a single hose back to a wye where it goes to two hoses for the throttle body.

Pretty truck.

Yes, it does show which axle you supposedly have. But when you use the decoder here (Documentation/Specifications/Axle Ratios) you are presented with a conundrum. The certification label says the axle is "72", but for an '84 truck that says it should have a Ford axle capable of carrying 2,200 lbs. Clearly that isn't right as your rear axle rating is shown as 5,864 lbs. Can you post some pics of your rear axle? Especially the differential? And, does it have a tag on it?

I think we are on the same page re the tank switches. Should work quite well. And your paint pen test worked wonderfully. I'm loving it.

You HAVE been making progress. Well done! Now I know why I have a Starter fuse and a Fuel Pump fuse. I can pull the Starter fuse and still run the fuel pump to prime things. As for the hiccups, I'm expecting to have more than that. So you did well. But I think the extra fitting on the radiator may have to do with the fact that some of the EFI'd engines had coolant-heated air inlet systems. Small hoses ran to the throttle body to heat the incoming air. On the on-board charger, did you remember that it may well trigger the smart isolator, thereby paralleling the two batteries?

I had forgotten. You are right, Espy is highly-optioned.

I'll check tomorrow. I don't remember what it is. As for your 1/0 wire, I'm a bit worried that the #10 yellow wire isn't going to cut it to tie the two batteries together. As I get into this I'm going to see if I can install the EFI harness that goes across the radiator support during Phase 1. That way I'd have the large wire that ties the EFI PDB to the PDB I'm working on now, and I could install the Cole Hersee smart relay at the end of that wire and connect up the aux battery.