Gary Lewis

Oh, so you think that the C606A will not be in my Non-AC truck? I think it is either or, but not both. Don't know why, but that seems to be the case.

Since that's on Photobucket, which seems to have a hole in it, let's put it here:

Did it die in the intersection in the second video? On transition from idle? It seemingly runs well save for what appear to be problems on transitions. So I'm hoping you can get that sorted and not have to pull all the other stuff off. But, if you do, here are some thoughts: The EEC systems I've been around on these trucks were stand-alone systems, meaning they had their own wiring. The ECA/ECU on my '82 was under the driver's seat and there was a boot that went into the floor to seal the wire. I wound up cutting the harness not far off the ECA, traced those wires to each of the senders/actuators, and then removed each of those awa the associated wiring. It wasn't too bad since it was an add-on harness so wasn't integrated into the other wiring. Sometimes it went under another harness, but I could usually slide it out and continue following it to the sender or actuator. You'll have a large tote full of "stuff" if you do that. And you'll have to replace the distributor and ignition module as well as the wiring to it. Plus, the carb is a feedback unit, and there won't be any input to it. You could try to run it and see how it does. It may work just fine, or it may not. But you said you have the dizzy, ignition module, wiring, and carb, so you are basically set.

Gary, as Peter Griffin once said, you are as cool as the other side of the pillow! Thank you sir, that picture is exactly what I needed. One of the connectors was broken off, and it wasn't clear to me what it was supposed to be attached to, but now it is. The wiring for the AC is really quite simple, so this is going to be a pretty easy install. A lot of time, yes,...but not difficult. The picture below are the two wires/connectors that I cut from the harness of the donor truck. These should be connectors C606 and C606A, and if I'm understanding the wiring correctly, these same two connectors should also be in my Non-AC equipped F150. Would you agree with that thought? The only other stray if this one wire off the AC harness closer to the plug for the AC compressor clutch. It must be for the throttle kicker, which I hadn't planned on using. I might just delete that wire...it's burned and melted anyway. Dad would have said "If that's a complement then I thank you." Looking at the 1984 EVTM (your pic is a bit small) I agree that C606 should be in the truck if it is non-AC, and C606A will be there if it is an AC truck. Both are gray and have a single pin, and connect BR/O wires. So, you should be good to go. And that should be the throttle kicker, but if your idle is adequate you probably won't need it.

Troy - Can you do us a favor and create a signature that tells us about the truck? I went back to the email you sent this morning and I know it is an '83 CA f150 with a 302. But the others won't. The signature creation info is on the Bullnose Forum/Forum FAQ's page. The problems you've described sound like a throttle position sensor issue. If the ECA doesn't know where the throttle is it will cause all sorts of problems, and your issues seem to be associated with changing the throttle position. The 1983 EVTM doesn't provide any testing info on the TPS, other than to say it "sends one of three signals to the ECA to indicate closed, partially open, or wide open throttle". Then it says to "Read Section 29 of the Shop Manual." But the only piece of the '83 shop manual that I have is the Engine section, and it ends at Section 28. Maybe someone else has the '83 FSM?

I think Jim is right, but I sure can't find something that says definitively. Not even in the shop manual.

So, my plan as of this 10 seconds in time is to carry on with the transformation w/o buying any headlights. It'll probably be quite some time before I need to install lights, and if I get there before I'm ready to spend any money I have the headlights that came out of Big Blue. But, probably by then the Koito's will be available.I've just updated the schematic for the smaller Key=On fuse, so I'm going to embed the PDB schematic here. That way as I update it this particular post will always be correct. But I have a question for y'all: Should I go back to the other posts where I've included the schematic and replace them with this "evergreen" version? I would hate it if someone used the wrong one as the wiring is evolving and getting closer to "correct". An advantage of doing it this way is that you/the reader can download a copy or zoom in to see detail. Thoughts?

Let's see if this helps:

Wow! The second one at $10 plus $6.15 for shipping is a STEAL! Compare that to $69.99 + $10.30 for the other one. They are both the right ones for our trucks.

And, I forgot - I'll take the pics around the resistor pack. Big Blue is in just the right shape to do that.

Or, you could go to Documenation/HVAC/HVAC Systems and on the Part Numbers tab you'll find:

That's a pretty good list from my standpoint. Well done!

Yes, nicely done! So it is tucked in ahead of the battery in that unused space. Cool!

Sometimes the other, non-Bullnose, projects make us appreciate our trucks. Perhaps that's what they are for?

Don't know when VSS was first used, but I've not seen a Bullnose with it. And even when it first started they used an adapter that gave both an electrical as well as mechanical connection.

Looking good, Shaun. Thought you'd settle on Ranger XLT.

So, if I put a power-robbing open air cleaner and a few lights on a roll bar, take out the D60 and the ZF5, Armor All the boots, and add some flashy wheels can I get that out of Big Blue?

You may have multiple problems. But first, when you say "adjustment screw", you do mean the curb idle adjusting screw shown below. Right? If that has no effect then you have a significant air leak. On the 300 six the carb attaching nuts have a tendency of loosening, so make sure it is tightened down, but don't break anything. If that isn't it check all of the hoses and vacuum caps for cracks. David will teach you how to do the smoke test to check for leaks if needed. I'll let someone else speak to the notch. And yes the computer is in limp mode. You will need to to replace the ignition system, but you may get by with the existing carb.

Yes, good price. Wish it was for our trucks. Note that the advert is wrong - it is not for a Bronco, but a Bronco II, as well as for the little Ranger.

83/on E-F250/350,F(Super Duty) 420 IDI E3TZ 6A366-A PLATE (FLYWHEEL REINFORCING)- 12 9/16" O.D. - - A/T

Rob - You are on the map. As for the ignition, all Bullnose trucks had electronic ignition. But some trucks had computer-controlled electronic ignition. And if you did much to the system the computer put the timing into limp-home mode, meaning it locked the timing to the initial advance. I once bought an '82 351W that set on a used car lot for years because someone did something that made the computer mad and the MPG and HP went away. But by swapping out the computer-controlled system with a standalone DS-II ignition system it ran well. David's thread, in his link, chronicles quite a saga of going from what you are getting now in MPG to over 20. I'm pretty sure you can do the same, but before we get too far please post some pics of the distributor. Just want to be sure of what you have.

Yes, welcome! Glad you joined. Where's home? We have a member's map I'd be happy to put you if I had a city and state. On the lack of power, Rob has a good point. If you have a computer it will be controlling the timing. But if the emissions stuff has been removed the computer will have its knickers in a twist and won't advance the timing and you won't have any power. So put your timing light on and see if the timing changes as you rev the engine. It should go up with R's, starting around 1500 to 2000 RPM. If it doesn't then timing is locked by the computer and you'll either need to put everything back, or better yet put a DS-II ignition on it. It'll make a huge difference.

Yeah, Early Broncos don't have much room, either under the hood or between the frame rails. It's actually pretty surprising how poorly they seem to use space, because on the outside they are really pretty big! If you look inside that bracket you'll see a "post" coming down through the middle of it, with a bolt head on the top of the bracket directly above the "post". The post is actually a bellcrank. A rod from the pedal connects to one arm on the bellcrank to turn it, and a rod from another arm goes to the booster. So the bellcrank more-or-less puts a bend in the brake rod. It ends up with the rod(s) moving in slightly different directions than normal, but it works. As far as moving the pin in the pedal, I'm not planning on it. One advantage of reusing the angled bracket is that the linkage from the pedal will be unchanged from what I had. All of the same parts in the same locations. As long as I have clearance at the inner fender and the hood, the only mechanical issues will be attaching the booster to the bracket and making a link so the bellcrank can push the booster. Then plumbing of course. There will be the question of whether I get the right amount of pedal travel with this setup. But it can't be much worse than what I had with the vacuum assist. So I'm going to throw it together first and see what I end up with. If the travel is too bad I may end up moving the pin, or changing the bellcrank arm lengths or something. But I'm going in assuming it'll be good enough as-is. The bell crank makes sense. And it gives you a place to change the travel/mechanical advantage w/o moving the pin on the pedal. But the plan to put it together first and see how it works is a good one.

Ok, Scott asked that I post pics when the ceramic sockets come in. But, do you really think I wouldn't???? As for my communications with Daniel Stern today, I'd said that given the state of the stock market I'm not ready to spend $150 on new headlight shells and bulbs. To which he said: So, my plan as of this 10 seconds in time is to carry on with the transformation w/o buying any headlights. It'll probably be quite some time before I need to install lights, and if I get there before I'm ready to spend any money I have the headlights that came out of Big Blue. But, probably by then the Koito's will be available.