Gary Lewis

Maybe just a speaker patch?

Yep, it has plenty of gas tanks. Yep, it is ORANGE! Would be just right in certain college towns. But apparently the engine wasn't important in the advert as it doesn't say much about it other than "VERY HEALTHY RUNNING V8 ENGING".

And it surely has the 300 six under the hood. Not sure what else to say, but they were minimalists. There ain't much there!

I scraped off the bigger clumps of the stuff, but I'd like to clean it all off. I often use Lacquer Thinner for difficult stuff like this, but I'm not sure if it will damage the plastic or not... I don't know what it'll do, but you could test it on the inside of the case somewhere. It doesn't soften all plastics and might not this.

Gary has enough challenges right now with his own wiring issues. It is amazing what people do to vehicles, and what can happen to them w/o modification. In the last week I've found at least 10 atrocities, from wire that had chafed and worn through the insulation to cuts and the ends just twisted together - some w/o tape.

Ha! I might forget a lot of things, but drinking coffee wouldn't be one of them...lol. My apologies Gary...I didn't realize that those threads were misplaced. I do usually go directly to the Ebay section for my posts, but if I missed it I missed it. Full disclosure I am in a bit of a stupor sometimes at 3 and 4am when I am doing this...lol. I would prefer to be sleeping at those times instead of being online, but sometimes I am reluctantly awake:nabble_smiley_cry: No problemo. We appreciate the sleuthing you get done in your stupor.

The neutral safety switch came into being in '84, I think, and the various EVTM's show the wiring to it differently and, I think, none show it correctly. But it appears that Ckt 32 comes from the ignition switch to the clutch switch, then out of the cab and down the frame rail to C128, which is said to be "near the dual brake warning switch on LH side of crossmember." At C128 it either wraps back if the vehicle has a manual trans or goes to the neutral safety switch on an auto. From there it goes back through C128 and up the frame rail to C121, which is "below the junction block" on the firewall near the steering column, where it splits with one side going to the start relay on the passenger's side and the other going to the ignition module on the driver's side. Yesterday I couldn't find either of those connectors. Which is strange because C128 is said to be an 18-pin connector, so should be pretty obvious. But if I get to the shop today I'm going to go over it very closely and trace the circuit. Somewhere there's a disconnect in it and I'm going to find it. Then, I may do some "simplification", but not 'til I figure out what is going on. For reference, here's where the EVTM's show the connectors"

Not a bad price. Good luck on the loan.

Yes, Big Blue has that stuff. It is really, REALLY hard to get off.

Sam - By "literature link in the Documentation thread" do you mean that if you click on Documentation and then click on Literature that nothing happens? If so, that's by design - it is just supposed to be a placeholder so you go to the pages below it. But I've now put the spreadsheet on a clickable page called Literature, so does that fix the problem you were seeing?

Ok, I'll admit it, I messed up. Orange/black, brown/orange, black/orange. Man, did I have it wrong. But it is right now and everything but the starter and fuel pump relay are working. More 'bout that in a minute, but I did find a problem in my design - the blower relay is pulled in all the time if the blower switch is in high, whether the key is off or on. So I have to change the blower relay such that its coil is powered by the Key-On relay - instead of the 30a fuse I currently have powering the coil. Now for the Start relay. I did as you suggested, Jim, and put a mini-fuse in the clutch switch. No go, literally. So I checked and I have 12v to both sides of the fuse, but it doesn't get to my Start relay. Then I checked between the ignition model and my relay and the red/light blue wire does connect the two, just like it should. But, there's no connection from under the hood to inside the cab, meaning to the clutch switch. I think this is the problem I was having intermittently before the transformation, but it has come back in spades. And apparently it wasn't the tilt column. In any event, the first diagram below shows that I have power from the ignition switch to the clutch switch. The second diagram shows where I don't have power. In both diagrams I've circled the connectors where I think the problem might lie. So tomorrow I hope to figure out where the problem is, and those connectors are where I'll start.

Do wires know what colors they wear? Looks like I put the relay in the brown/orange wire instead of the orange/black wire. So instead of the relay, should it pull in, grounding the motor it'll ground the 30a fuse. Gotta go........

Thanks, guys. I'll do some more playing with it and create a page for Literature and put it on it. But, do you think we should keep the individual year-by-year pages? Also, I've just realized there are other docs that aren't on a yearly basis, and those are under Misc. Gotta figure out what to do with them.....

There were other things on, inc the door-open buzzer, which got obnoxious so I closed the doors. I'll check to see what it pulls by itself. Hooked up the starter battery through a fuse so I could test things. Tried the starter relay, but someone put a clutch switch in the circuit, so it doesn't come in. And the same guy hasn't installed the slave cylinder, so he's a bit reluctant to push the pedal down for fear it'll over-extend the slave. I'll see if there's power to the switch and maybe jumper it. Tried the headlights and the high and low beam outputs work perfectly, so I need to get the wire. And will check the Key-On relay, which will be obvious via the voltmeter which replaced the ammeter. Tried the blower motor, and no dice on any speed. Not sure what that means, but I'll check that out after this coffee/brownie break. Can't be the relay I put in as it only put it in the ..... wrong wire? Uh Oh! Gotta go look!

I got most of the wiring for the PDB done, save for the headlight wires as I don't appear to have the right gauge wire, and thought I'd see what happened if I powered it up. But I basically had two choices - my lab power supply which is limited to 1 amp, and the huge starting battery. To be on the safe side I chose the power supply, and sure enough it said "No way, Jose!". So I started pulling fuses. And when I pulled the one to Circuit 38 things went to normal - 14v and no current. Hmmm, is the headlight switch on? Oh wait! There's no knob in the switch, and the way you get it to come out is to pull it to On! Found the knob, and the one for the wipers, and installed them and turned them off. Turned the supply back on and it went to 14v but 750ma. Hmmmm... Wait! The doors are open!

Well, apparently iPads and iPhones don't support Wingdings 2 font, which is the one I used for the check mark. Instead I get a P in the place of the check mark. We will sort that out later - if we decide to use this. But I also note that the width doesn't work very well on my iPhone's limited space. So I may have to play around with that as well. Thoughts?

I have an idea I want your thoughts on, please. Currently there's no way to get a good overview of what literature we have, nor an easy way to poke around in the literature. That's because you have to click on the menu, go to Documentation, then Literature, and then the year of the literature you might want to see. That brings up a page with pics of the cover of the literature for that year, and you can click on the pic to be taken there. What if we had a page at the front with a spreadsheet on it like the one below. But instead of just having green check marks showing that we have that particular piece of literature on the site, there's a blue check mark that is a link to the document's page? (Try clicking the check mark on Service Highlights - Chassis.) Wouldn't that serve both the purpose of having a list of what we have, and therefore what we are lacking, as well as provide a much easier way to get to literature? Also, I'll be providing some organization to the spreadsheet as I populate it, like a section for Brochures, one for Advertisements, one for Service, etc. But we may find that the page gets rather long, so we may want to go to tabs for the various types. We shall see, but your thoughts would be appreciated.

The carpet looks GREAT! And I'm sure the heat will soften the backing and let it lay in even better. On the GVOD, is it possible that there's no voltage there until the unit goes into a certain mode, and it isn't at the moment? As for the DS-II box, if you bolt them together the bottom one will sink some of its heat into the top one through the bolts. Or you could put the top one upside down and against the bottom one, with some compound between them. And maybe an aluminum plate to cover the bottom of the top one?

Matthew! Good to see from you! Truck looks good, but lonesome. Are you taking classes from home?

I think it will help, but I did/am doing it because I think it looks cool and will cause the old timer's to . I used a 5.8L HO air cleaner housing and grafted on a matching snorkel, so it looks factory. And I discovered that if you turn some of the cold air inlet tubing upside down it'll fit so you can plumb the 2nd snorkel to the radiator support - with factory pieces.

Yep. Check out the first post now. I'm not done with the spreadsheet by any stretch, but I think this will be a good way to keep track of what we have and don't have. I'll work on it over the next few days as I get time and then let y'all know when it is done. Then, as we find things I'll add the check marks and we'll all know what we have and, therefore, what we are looking for.

You are right. I saw that it got added. Good call! But I'm doubting that the emoji selection on Gmail will come through on the form. Here's what people are looking like today: 😷

That is an excellent score! You couldn't build it for many times that. And it looks very solid! In fact, how are you going to unload and handle it? As for the core support, what will you have to do to fix it? Hacked wiring? I thought I had two good wiring harnii on the shelf, and as I've started trying to pull wires out of them I've discovered all sorts of hacks. Today I found several instances of wires twisted together and then taped over. Not even a wire nut!

Ok, I'll give it a try. The extraneous stuff is gone. But, I think, IIRC, the signature doesn't come through. Let's see.