Gary Lewis

If you have access to an inside micrometer I'd check out the cylinders. If not, Page 14 of the General Gasoline Engine Service document (Documentation/Engines/General Engine Service explains how to do that with a ring. And it tells where to measure and how to calculate the wear/taper. And Page 15 discusses when and how to hone the cylinders. And Page 22 of the FSM section on the 300 six (Documentation/Engines/300 Six and then the Instructions tab) tell how to remove the gears and replace them.

I don't know the answer to the question, but did spend some time looking - to no avail. A "shield" is generic part # 14A099, but that one is either not a "shield" or not shown. I'll keep my eyes open.

I'm in the wrong league. I was a radio amateur, and fully understood the 5-tube superhet, but didn't go much further with it that using it. Hated organic and inorganic chemistry classes. We lived in London a couple of years, but didn't meet Dave. Didn't even know many EE's there as I worked for Conoco/Jet in the computer and telecommunications department.

That's a really nice truck! The colors appear to be the same as Big Blue's, which I like a bunch. And it is straight and apparently no rust. Interior is nice, although I'm not used to seeing a rubber mat. But everything looks to be in good shape save for the normal wear on the driver's seat. Price is a bit higher than I expected, and maybe higher than people will be willing to pay given the economy, but I hope it brings that.

Hello Gary, sorry for the mistake, its a conversion from manual to power steering. MikeSanders is a rust protection, very popular here. https://mike-sander.de/index.php/en/ Hello Dave and thanks very much. the important thing is that the composite has some leeway in all directions. It stretches less than wood, but there still has to be a small margin. The lashing straps are used for fastening, that's right. The metal floor is great, surely the best for tough use. The composite is harder than wood, but unfortunately, marks still come in when in use. However, signs of use are not noticed as quickly because it is not painted. With kind regards Max Oh, it was manual steering and you converted to power. Now I understand. And I also understand about Max Sanders. Cool! You are really doing well. Congrat's!

Well done! That looks like it must have been a chore, so I'm impressed.

I kinda like them. Have thought about picking one up, but just don't know that I want to drill those holes you mentioned. Maybe when I get everything done on Big Blue and Dad's truck I'll think about it. Or, maybe for a Bronco, which I still hope to acquire some day.

My undergrad degrees are math and physics. Didn't complete the graduate engineering degree I worked on, but had fun taking classes in parallel systems and similar interests. Watched a buddy get his Masters in EE and get patted on the back by our employer - but no extra money. Decided it wasn't worth it to me. Wound up not using much of my college education as I got into computers/information technology and then management thereof. But I remember just enough of the physical side to get by and little, if any, of the chemistry. So while I know what a valence chart is, I don't remember what to do with it.

I'd missed that, but it sure is. Interesting.

I think the 5/16 (8mm?) head bolt that tightens the hold down wedge at the front of the Bricknose tray is going to hit anything underneath. But, you're a belt AND suspenders kinda guy. Yes, but I've moved on from that approach. Now a new Bricknose tray and brace is on their way here, due in on Tuesday.

Between picking it up and the little bit of running around I've done with it, I've now put 180 miles on it, and according to the gauge, I still haven't burned the 26.4 gallons I put in it, so it must be getting at least 7mpg. We'll see. I don't have high hopes in the MPG department, but I'll get it as good as I can. I emailed Scott at Parkland for advice, and he was quick and to the point: 1. Set base timing at 13 deg with distributor disconnected. 2. Install a 180 deg high flow thermostat. 3. Install a low resistance air filter in the stock air cleaner. 4. Free flowing exhaust, preferably with headers. 5. Buy his 460 top end kit. Do any or all of those mods in that order. I will definitely be doing items 1 through 3, and not likely ever do 4 and 5. This thing is an RV after all...lol. I don't want to hotrod it, I just want it to work it's very best. Scotty is quite helpful. I've been very pleased with his help.

You didn't break anything, I take it?

Adds a nice touch I think! Yes, I thought it was a nice touch. Today we have something from Clifton - 1982 Special Performance Specifications. This includes calibration info, shift speeds & line pressures for transmissions, etc. Includes all 1982 Ford vehicles including heavy duty trucks. It is at Documentation/Literature/1982 Literature, and is also listed on the Documentation/Literature spreadsheet. Thanks, Clifton! And, I added the Body Shell, Exterior Trim, Frame & Underbody section from the 1985 FSM to the site: Documentation/Body/Body Shell, Exterior Trim, Frame & Underbody. This includes the instructions on installing the radiator support, which I needed today.

Oh no! I just bought it before seeing this! Seriously though, this will be a great solution to the issue. Now for today's efforts. I got ready to bolt the core support in and pulled out the bushings that were in it - the ones shown on the right, below. Then I went to our page (Documentation/Suspension & Steering/Body Mounts) and looked at that, but what I had didn't make any sense. So I went to the LMC catalog. Still no dice. Finally I turned to the FSM and in Section 47-30 I found what I was looking for - the way it goes together awa the torque values. (And, having vowed I'd not look stuff up in the FSM w/o scanning that section in for all y'all, I scanned this one and more in. But that's for another thread.) Turns out that when put this thing together he used more pieces than he was supposed to use. What is supposed to go in is as shown on the left, with the two pieces sandwiching the bracket on the frame and the core support sitting on top of it, with shims below and a spacer, washer, and nut above. Here's what it is supposed to look like, and I now have new upper and lower absorbers installed. But that rubber hex on the upper absorber wasn't enough to torque one of the bolts in, so I had to resort to one of those rubber strap wrenches to get it tight. Now I need to figure out how to align the core support and the fenders properly. Do you know?

Yes, it bolts to the same holes on the radiator support as the 80-86 support does. No need for any modifications. The 80-86 version is inferior, never consider going back to it unless you're building a show truck. Ok, guys, I'll buy the one David found! But, ebay's server is down. So, I'll get it ASAP. Thank you!

Not what you are looking for, Gary, but cool, none the less: https://www.macsautoparts.com/ford_fairlane_torino/air-cleaner-decal-460-police-interceptor-ranchero-torino-1974.html?utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&scid=scbplp42-74039-1&sc_intid=42-74039-1&utm_campaign=sc_bingshopping_desktop&msclkid=5983abaf5e0a1140e81ef5d42e67a3e5 Rick - You are right, Ford did call it a 7.5L in that era. But it just doesn't have the same ring to it. David - Yes, that's similar. And cool. But I was emulating the 5.8L HO air cleaner.

Hmmm??? "Another clueless seller?" Yep, that's what Bill would say. By the way, has he shown up anywhere of late? Told me he's done chasing part #'s and loving it.

Thanks. Yes, that's 16A236, the Bullnose battery tray support. But I'd also have to have the Bullnose battery tray itself since mine is hopelessly rusted away. And then I'd have to modify the new tray by taking the ears off so it won't hit the upper/later tray. Then it should be powder coated or its going to deteriorate and look like the one I have. If I'm buying new I'd be better off buying the 1987 and later brace (E7TZ 10769-A or the replacement, F4TZ 10769-A) and hope that it fits the Bullnose frame or radiator support, whichever it attaches to. The illustration appears to show it with holes that are likely to go to the radiator support. But, will it attach to a Bullnose radiator support? With the unknowns I think I'd better wait until I can get out and go with Bruno to the salvage as we'd planned before the lock-down hit. There I'd hope to not only pull the later brace but also a decent Bullnose battery tray and brace. Who knows, I may need to go back to that setup.

Scott - You may be thinking of the aux battery, that is smaller. The main battery is: L W H 56: 10 x 6 1/16 x 8 3/8 65: 12 1/16 x 7 1/2 x 7 9/16 Mine: 13 x 6 3/4 x 8 1/2 So it'll be interesting how it fits. As for not reinventing the wheel, I think you are right. I went looking for spare battery trays and braces and found none. But, I did find this! So I took a look at the battery tray and brace that came off of Big Blue. Looks like a trip to the salvage is on tap, at some point, whichever way I go, and I may as well get the brace that goes with the later battery tray. Here's a shot of the two pieces off Big Blue where you can see how bad they are, and then them sorta in their natural habitat. However, in that pic the Bullnose battery tray would come up under the fender liner, which is probably why they rusted out so badly since water and mud would be trapped there. And the brace would come up a bit and bolt to the radiator support on the left and through the fender liner to the battery tray on the right. But obviously that's not happening with these pieces.

Those would look wonderful on Big Blue, but not for that price. And, since there were either 5 or 6 blues in the Bullnose era, I don't know if they'd match because the seller didn't state the year. (What would Numberdummy say?)

Amen, brother!

Well, in a few months it may be cheaper?

Ah, Got it! The studs are just pressed into the mounting plate with a head on the back to keep them from pulling through. So I'm planning on knocking the studs out and just using bolts to go the full length. (edit to add: this project picks up again about halfway down page 164) That make sense.

I'm not sure what you mean by "coupling nuts." But my plan is to bore holes in some 2 3/8" long pieces of round bar stock and use some 3" long bolts. Coupling nuts are long nuts that allow two bolts to be joined. How are you going to join the long bolts to the studs? Or?

It's an old-school vehicle, it deserves an old-school trouble light! And the "rugged service" bulbs hold up pretty well too. It was a couple years ago so I don't remember for sure. I might have been standing on top of the ladder but holding onto the tree branch for stability. But more likely I also had a foot on the Bronco fender or something. I wrapped the strap around the limb 1 1/2 wraps rather than just draping it over. The bark is pretty rough so it didn't want to slide like that. Ok, I won't tell my story. But it looks precarious. However, it did work.