Gary Lewis

Yep: 1408 BOLT (SPARE WHEEU-Also refer to group 1448 80/82 F100/350 — in box carrier EOTZ 1408-L l/2"-13 x 5"-use with all 15" & 16" tires and with 8.00" x 16.5" tires

Welcome, Gregg! Glad you joined. We have a map (Bullnose Forum/Member's Map in the menu) and I'd be happy to add you if you'd like. Cheers!? Sound like a Brit. (I frequently say "ciao", but I'm hardly Italian, so....)

I think I get the picture, completely. Been there, done that with several things. And before you got to it in the explanation I was thinking "those jack stands are going to kick out as he lowers it". Yep, that arc is a bummer. And working single-handed makes it difficult as it is really hard to lower the shop crane while holding the end of the bed/engine/load. But, you don't trust anyone else to just barely crack the valve and not dump the whole thing on the ground as you are holding the end and the load just went from 50 lbs to 500 - and your toes are under it. Nope, never done anything like that.

Don't forget the grandparents. And especially grandfathers, as grandmothers seem to get all the attention.

Good point about the accelerator pump. But his carb should have the Holley-style pump and I doubt it hurts it. Score one for that pump, which makes it 10-1 against.

I am sorry I don't have anything else to contribute to help you with your problem, but I have a question for you: In your "Cold Start" video, am I understanding correctly and that was your first start in 3 weeks? It looks like your starting procedure was only one single pump of the gas and your truck started up after only a little bit of cranking? Guys, is this normal for these stock carbureted trucks with computers? I have an older 1960s-era Autolite 4100 on Lucille that is very similar to the Motorcraft 2150. It runs as close as you can get to fuel injection and I am extremely happy with it. If I drive it every day or every other day, it starts right up with only a single pump of the gas without any problems. But if I let it sit for three weeks, my starting procedure is quite different than this video. I would have to re-prime the carburetor by pumping the gas at least 5 times before attempting to start it. I have to let it crank for about 10 seconds, stop, and then repeat the process. It will usually start right up on the second round. Why does my truck need that, and his doesn't? Is it because he has an engine computer and mine doesn't? After I do that, it will go back to one single pump of the gas if I drive it every day or every other day. If it sits 5 days, I will need to give it 5 pumps of gas before starting the engine. But it starts right up and even faster than my fuel injected vehicles. This works perfect every single time. Rick - I think it varies significantly with the gas being used as well as the temperature - both the ambient as well as the carb. And I don't think the system holds pressure as much as the gas doesn't evaporate from the carb. Ethanol has a lower boiling point than gasoline, so if you are using ethanol and your environment is hot it'll evaporate earlier than if using gas in a cool climate. If your carb gets hot it'll evaporate, so that has something to do with the heat crossover in the intake manifold. IOW, there are lots of variables. But in my experience, most if not all of my trucks would not start that easily after 3 weeks of sitting.

Dunno where the muffler is. Hidden? As for prisons, yes they are in serious trouble.

I think 13 & 15 are inlet for the AIR pump? So they are using the air intake system as the silencer for the AIR pump?

So true on the internet. Several premium channels are having a free period and we are taking advantage of that by recording several movies to our DVR. That way we can watch them w/o needing bandwidth. As for shops, our governor hasn't shut things down, but is leaving it to the cities. Tulsa has shut most things down, but our little town hasn't.

I found a picture of what the intake snorkel looks like on the passenger side. I guess it is drawing from the area in front of the core support, behind the edge of the hood? Kind of hard to tell. I guess you can kind of see it here in this picture? The declared a state of emergency here yesterday about mid day. Everybody has been ignoring the calls to stay away from large groups, and there were a few hundred people partying at the beach yesterday. The police showed up and told them all to go home, and apparently they were ignored. Today there's a $1000 fine if you're caught out running around without a very good reason. Jim - Yes, they cut the horns out, but from what reading I've done it isn't conclusive that it helps. Guns and booze - one more reason to stay inside. The illustration helps more than the pic since everything is mashed. Complex system. As for the people, I think they should be put in a large cell and allowed to pass their germs back and forth. That way they won't pass them to the rest of the world, which they have done already by going home. A fine seems the least the government should do.

I don't know what all that is for - unless it is as you suggested. Seems strange. And the piece towards the passenger's fender looks like it has anti-reversion molded into it. The whole state is going lock-down tonight? What will be left open? You are, obviously, quite close to New York with all its problems.

Yes, it is inconceivable to me that people toss those things. But I will admit that the glove boxes on these things aren't very big, so perhaps it was done for space? Anyway, it will be helpful, I'm sure. But I wish I could easily make it display the pages in two-up mode, meaning side-by-side, just as you'd see it in the book. I can do that via a setting in my pdf program, but it is only effective in that program and doesn't change what everyone sees via a browser. So if anyone knows, please let me know.

I'm curious to see how it works, but my worry is the different expansion rates of the different materials. The dash gets REALLY hot, and my concern is that the different materials will expand/contract/expand/contract until they part from each other. But I guess I just worry a lot.

Only thing I can think of would be the dual batteries that wouldn't be present in the regular gas models. I haven't looked to closely at this thing yet, so I don't know which battery is the standard one that would exist in all of them. Late to the party, but as Jim is implying, I might have the filter box. But, it looks to me like the top of the box is different from the vans to the pickups, which is what mine is from. The one below has two fittings for the hoses that go to the front, but I don't think mine has anything like that. I'll look in a bit.

Yes, I heard the sigh from here but didn't know what it was! I think I see three different approaches: from back w/o jack stands; from back with jack stands; from side with jack stands. And it was the latter that worked? I fully understand about priorities, use of money, etc. The COVID-19 virus and the impact it is, and will, have on the economy has already changed my priorities. (And worrying about the kids has taken away some of my drive.) So I can appreciate the shifting plans, for sure.

I agree. Pretty sure no oil channels in a YF. But if there's oil in the bowl that will take some time to wash out.

I'll give it a try tomorrow, Scott. As I said, I need to inspect every inch of that wiring, so want to get the connectors apart, cleaned, and put back together. And all of the run protected in new convolute.

Thanks to Shaun, we have an '86 Owner Guide on the site now, and an '80 waiting to be scanned. And, it is in the Literature spreadsheet. Thanks, Shaun!

:nabble_smiley_blush:I must not have looked that good sorry. That is a good place as any I guess. I just need to open my eyes is all. I do have a add on for the vacuum valve part number. You list a 2 port valve and that would be good for 99% of the trucks but I am that 1% it does not. Because I have a 300 six and running EFI exh. manifolds I need to heat the intake manifold so a 4 port valve that bypasses the heater core but keeps the hot water flowing is what I need. The valves below will do this. PN: 74809 Four Seasons or NAPA PN: BK6601294 I hope to pick one up ASAP as the vents are blowing hot air and don't need AC that is not working yet. Thanks again Dave ---- I added that valve to that page. Thanks!

You can't leave that there! Gotta say more.

Hey Gary, Yes overall she is in pretty good condition. It has 120k miles on it, and has had a bunch of work done to that helped in my buying decision. It came from out west as we say...Alberta, where the prairie climate preserves things a little better than out here on the damp and salty coast. It was converted from gas to propane when it was brand new, so not only does it have a 30lb propane tank for the appliances, it also has two 100lb belly tanks for the engine. Sometime in the past few years it was converted back to gas, but is still using the underhood open element air cleaner that was part of the propane conversion. This is why I was on the hunt for a stock air cleaner housing and intake ducting. I'll replace it when I find all the pieces. I drove it 120 miles to get it home and it has some things that need to be fixed up. Coolant temp gauge is not working. Cruise control works, but kicks off when you turn on the right hand signal light...lol. Steering wheel is way off center, so it needs and alignment. I'll have to check out the front end...at a minimum is needs new shocks and swaybar bushings. Worse case it needs a new steering gear, but I see that it has a steering stabilizer on it...aftermarket I'm sure. I could start with that. As far as the coach is concerned, it needs a new grey water tank, and the on board generator needs service (supposedly). It starts, but kicks off shortly afterwards. Flooring needs to be replaced. Hard to believe, but when they built this stupid thing, they carpeted the entire floor, and then built/assembled the interior on top of it. Good grief. The carpet is getting ripped out next weekend and will get replaced with some kind of vinyl. It's a his and hers type of project. The wife wants to paint, decorate, upholster, etc. She's very much into that stuff and does it all herself. In searching for info on the drivetrain in this thing, I came across a lot of recommendations for a Banks kit for the E4OD. https://www.bankspower.com/i-773-transcommand-automatic-transmission-management-computer-for-1989-1998-ford-e40d-auto-trans.html After driving it, I see what they were complaining about. It shifts so softly that you actually can't even feel it shift...which is weird. I'm told that the Banks kit rectifies that and makes the trans run cooler (less slippage when shifting gears?). It has a heavy duty trailer hitch, and the guy had the frame reinforced where the hitch attaches. It also has 7pin trailer connector and new trailer brake controller. Anyway, it'll be fun, and we can work on it together. Sounds like a good project, and one that your wife wants to do. Perfect! And yes, soft shifts are hard on transmissions, and especially on ones in heavy vehicles and the slippage creates lots of heat. Do you have a tranny expert around you trust? With those gears and a good tranny, you should be able to put the trailer hitch to good use.

Glad it is working on your iPad, as that's how it was supposed to work. As for easy, I'm going to stop pretty much where it is. I'll leave the EVTM's on there, but won't add more - at least at the moment.

Bummer! But I don't know the answer to your questions. That's 'cause Big Blue's hood fits roughly the same way and I've not figured out how to fix that, even though I've adjusted the hinges. So I'll hide and watch to see what others say.

Yep, it is a 4-pin connector. And I found it. But, I may have erred. I tried pulling the connector apart, to no avail, and then realized that I should have been testing the connection while I was working on it. So I checked, and sure enough it was working. However, I realized that I have to turn the key all the way, and it is possible that I wasn't yesterday. So now it is working and I can't get it to fail. But, I did check everything out and the PDB is fully functional. Oh yes, I rewired the blower relay so it is powered off the key-on relay and the relay doesn't come on until you turn the key on. Tomorrow I'm going to check out all of the wiring running down the frame as the convolute is toast, literally. Several pieces crumbled when I pulled on them, and I'm sure that's from all the heat off the headers. So I'll replace that and make sure there aren't any breaks along the way. Anyone have any suggestions on how to get a connector apart? Even with the tabs lifted it won't budge.

I hear (see?) you about the economic downturn. Just can't see how it won't happen. On the RV, is this the one you wrote about earlier? It looks good from what we can see, but the devil is in the details.