Gary Lewis

You are right. I saw that it got added. Good call! But I'm doubting that the emoji selection on Gmail will come through on the form. Here's what people are looking like today: 😷

That is an excellent score! You couldn't build it for many times that. And it looks very solid! In fact, how are you going to unload and handle it? As for the core support, what will you have to do to fix it? Hacked wiring? I thought I had two good wiring harnii on the shelf, and as I've started trying to pull wires out of them I've discovered all sorts of hacks. Today I found several instances of wires twisted together and then taped over. Not even a wire nut!

Ok, I'll give it a try. The extraneous stuff is gone. But, I think, IIRC, the signature doesn't come through. Let's see.

Blue looks to be your color. I guess I should have know - Gsmblue. But it is looking good. However, I'm curious what differences you've found with the accumulators.

Jim - Yes, I love onions. Or, maybe better said, I love peeling onions. Because the Bloomin' Onion at the end is so good! (My stomach is revolting at the thought of all that grease. ) Yes, my son knows me. He didn't call this evening on his way home from work 'cause he worked from home, but I planned to tell him how well they worked out. And I'm glad you suggested doing it that way. Scott - You have a very valid point about the earlier diagrams and comments thereunto. I think I'll leave them. Having said that, having the one I posted today being "correct" has an advantage for me. I have that old iPad laying on a stool by the truck and it is open to that diagram. So now if I spot an error, as I did today when it showed a 10a fuse instead of the 3a I put in today, I can change it on the computer at the desk, go back out and refresh and it'll be updated.

Would love any/all of those. But, I'm sorry to say that I really like things scanned well as I want the site to look good. Having said that, I've also realized that 300 dpi is the sweet spot. I have some scanned at 600 dpi and they not only take longer to load, the first page comes out fuzzy due to some compression that the site tries to apply. But not at 300. Another reason is that I then run the files through my optical character recognition software so instead of them just being pictures of letters, there are actual letters there that can be searched and copied. And 300 dpi OCR's much better than anything lower in resolution. As for the owner's manuals, I really need to cut them apart to scan them as it is a whole bunch faster. However, most people don't want their manual's binding cut off, so I'm not sure what to do there. But we do need owner's manuals. Suggestions, guys?

Yes, Jim, I like that idea. Scott - Are you going to carry a spare? How 'bout mounting them one above the other as I did? Changeout is easy.

Do you edit the email reply to get the extraneous stuff out? On your truck, did you notice if the forged axles have king pins or ball joints? We were just discussing that, and the MPC seems to say that forged had king pins. We have a section for advertising things: Marketplace/For Sale, Trade, or Free To A Good Home and you could advertise the stuff there.

I have the 1980 Four Wheeling With Ford brochure. What year is yours? If other than '80 I would like to have a copy. If you can scan it cleanly at 300 dpi that would work. But you'll probably have to share it with me via a cloud drive as it will be large. Is the owner's guide the owner's manual? A good scan of that would be helpful as well.

You are, quite literally, on the map. And, as you've seen, you can reply via email. But it brings a fair amount of extra characters with it. Your thread, your call.

I found two instances of idler pulley bearings, but neither fit your truck. So from an MPC standpoint it looks like the answer is no. But does yours look like it can be replaced?

Glad you are essentially "there". Gotta be a good feeling. On your questions, the one about the fan is certainly different between A/C and non-A/C trucks, and that is shown on the page at Documentation/Cooling Systems/COOLING FAN #'S & ILLUSTRATIONS. The non-AC fan is 18 1/4" in diameter and the AC one is 19". But there's also a difference in the clutch, which is also shown. And, there's a chance you will need a different shroud, as shown on the page at Documentation/Cooling Systems/Shroud Part #'s. On the idler pulley bearing, I don't know. I do know that the serpentine ones can be replaced as I've done that. But I've not tried the vee-belt ones. I'll go look .....

Welcome, Clifton! Glad you joined. We have a map (Bullnose Forum/Member's Map in the menu) - may I add you? (All y'all - I know where he lives.) How 'bout telling us what truck(s) you have? And, maybe add them to a signature? The directions on adding a sig are in the FAQ's: Bullnose Forum/Forum FAQ's. By the way, this forum is unlike some others in that unless you either post in a thread or subscribe to it, or the folder it is in, you'll not get notified via email for new posts. That's explained on the Email Notification tab on the FAQ's page.

You did it!

A gentleman by the name of Clifton contacted me to see if I wanted a couple of books to put on the site. I certainly accepted and he's shipped them, but he also asked if we have a literature wish list as he frequently finds Ford lit. So this thread is to create that list. Please chime in with things we are missing but should have. And note that I have a lot of things "on the shelf" that I've not added, like all of the "other" EVTMs, so I won't add things I already have to the list. I've created an Excel spreadsheet and put it here so the list will be evergreen and ever present.

Got more wiring on the PDB done today. Still have four wires left to go, but should get them done tomorrow and then move on to testing.A few things to point out. First, note the temp wire ties. Jim suggested the velcro ones, but I have the ones shown as a gift from our son, so thought I'd use them and they work perfectly.Second, the bundle coming up from the lower right, and which has the blue wrap on it, is long enough that it will go around the back side of the vacuum reservoir instead of running diagonally across the fender the way Ford did it. I've always thought that looks ..... poor.Last, the two wires not in that bundle yet are for the marker lights and the right turn signal. I'll have to lengthen them to get enough length to join the others, but I really want to clean that area up.

You need the aluminum to have some air over it to cool the components. Would it get air that way? If so, then I don't see a problem.

OK, try this... I disconnected the the plugs for an example. Pretend the connector on the right is C606 in my Non-AC truck. The two wires on the left are from the AC harness. One is brown/white, and the other is brown/orange. It looks like all I have to do is simply open up the C606 connector in my truck, and connect the two halves to the two wires of the AC harness. Does that make sense? If you look at the two diagrams in the EVTM for heat only, and then heat/AC, the AC wiring simply inserts in between the fuse and the blower. That should be all I have to do. Dawn! Marblehead! Yes! I agree.

On the front passenger's side corner of the carb according to the illustration I have. And it has three wires to it, which you can see in the schematic below - and while it isn't completely accurate for your truck, the TPS circuit is correct: Orange/White: VREF, which is Circuit 351 Dark Green/Light Green: Circuit 355 Black/White: SRTN which is Circuit 359 As for testing it, go to Documentation/Electrical/ELECTRONIC ENGINE CONTROL (EEC) and go to the EEC-III tab. Then scroll down to Page 28-64, where the testing is explained. But note that they mention the name of the signal going to the TPS, and not the color of the wire. However, they also show the circuit #, which is why I did the translation above.

Correct. The connector genders are reversed between C606 and C606A. Well, what I meant was, it looks like the harness in my truck was made to accept the AC harness. I should be able to open up connector C606 on my truck, and then plug both wires from the AC harness into each half of the C606 connector. In other words, no splicing. Just plug and play. I won't know for sure until I get in there and actually try it, but at least I know where to connect the two wires from the AC harness, even if I do have to splice them in (But I assume I do not). If by "open up connector C606 on my truck, and then plug both wires from the AC harness into each half of the C606 connector" you mean pull the terminals out of the shells then I think I'm with you. Maybe. Can you say that another way?

If it was me I'd pull the connector to the throttle position sensor, but a DVM on it, and watch to see what happens as you slowly open and close the throttle. (Actually what would be better would be an analog ohm meter so you could see the meter move.)

Ok, clarification...maybe... I just went back through the EVTM again because it just wasn't making sense to me. I was looking at the "AC-Heater" page thinking it referred to both AC and Heat, but that is not the case. I found the Heat (only) page that refers to my truck, and it shows connector C606. So, correct me if I'm wrong here, but I should be able to disconnect connect C606 shown above, and plug each half into the two connectors on the AC/Heat controller, and then I have C606 and C606A? The two connectors from the AC truck are reversed...the male and female ends of the connectors. So I should disconnect the two dead/cut-off ends, and then the two halves remaining should plug into the two halves of connector C606 in my truck. Does that sound correct? They may not be in the 100% correct location, but electrically that would be correct, no? This is getting scary - I pulled out my '84 EVTM and opened it to the right page on the first try. (But if you'd stick width="100%" in the html generated for your pics I might be able to read them. For instance: nabble_img src="SPOUT_Connector.jpg" border="0"width="100%"/ with the pointy things on each end taken off.) And yes, you figured it out, there's a page for Heater and one for AC. Anyway, I'm confused. I thought I understood the EVTM such that the >> meant that the connector on the left is the male and the one on the right is the female. So, C606 should be oriented the same as C606A. But I think you are saying that they changed the genders between the two - right? If that is the case you should be able to connect the cast-off C606 connector to the cast-off C606A connector and change the genders back. Is that what you meant?

I don't know if you disconnect it or ground it. Does someone know?

Oh, so you think that the C606A will not be in my Non-AC truck? I think it is either or, but not both. Don't know why, but that seems to be the case.