Gary Lewis

Right - The later battery trays are better for a number of reasons. The fact that it is above the fender liner is a blessing as the mud and water don't sit on it forever. And the clamps are supposed to be far superior to the j-hooks. Mine is quasi installed, but I didn't have the brace that goes to the radiator support, without which I don't dare put the battery in. So I don't yet know how the clamping system is going to work. But I like it so far. And yes, it is a HUGE onion!

Just got a note back from Daniel last night saying: But they are supposedly the ones where you put your own wire into the connector and either crimp or solder. I'll post a pic when I get them, but I'm kinda hung up w/o them which is why I chose to scan the big doc yesterday.

I think you've found your problem. I don't believe there's supposed to be a dip in the readings. But I don't know anything about removing the TPS. Maybe Bill can tell us more? And I'll look tomorrow to see if I have any other literature that tells.

Angelo - Your phone is smart and reads the orientation data embedded in the pic's metadata and then rotates the pic. This forum, like many forums, isn't and doesn't. So you have to open the pic in picture editing software and then save it. That usually causes the software to reorient the pic and all is well. But not always. On the cam, if you had a flat lobe and yet it was running that well, think how it is going to run with a good cam! What cam are you planning on using? And the parts really cleaned up nicely. The engine is going to be both strong and pretty.

Welcome, Keith! Sure glad you joined. Do you mind if I put you on our map? (Bullnose Forum/Member's Map in the menu.) Yes, I know where you live. You said you are interested in picking up a Bullnose. Tell us more, as in Style vs Flare. Or Bronco? What cab? And, more specifically, for what purpose? If I was looking for a daily driver and wanted to get some MPG I'd consider an EFI'd 302 w/an AOD. You can see the spec's here: Documentation/Engines/Windsor. Click on the 302 tab and then the Specifications tab and scroll to the very bottom. These are pages from the dealer facts books, and they put both the 302 and the 351W on the same page, where you can see: HP: 190 @ 3800 210 @ 4000 (Under 8500 GVWR) TQ: 285 @ 2400 305 @ 2800 (Under 8500 GVWR) Or, I'd seriously consider the 300 six w/a 4-speed overdrive. David/1986F100Six routinely gets 20 MPG with his. The issue is that the Bullnose era was when EFI and overdrive transmissions first came in. But only the 302 got EFI during that time, and the AOD wasn't available on a bigger engine. It wasn't until well after that the E4OD and the ZF5 made their debuts. In the interim we had all sorts of complicated carburetion and ignition systems foisted upon us, such as EEC-II and EEC-III with feedback carbs and TFI ignition. When they worked they were fine, but most don't work well at this point and yet they aren't smart enough systems to really tell us what the problems are. So by now most of them have been hacked to the point they don't run well, or changed back to non-feedback and a DS-II ignition. But again, tell us more about what you want to do with the truck.

Yes, I ran into similar problems with the hood. And, I see what you mean by turning the engine a bit.

Well done, Shaun. Erik @ Sky worked with me, but there were a lot of things I think could have been done better. And you got very quick service.

Eventually if the shaft spins in the bearing the shaft will get galled because the bearing is harder than the shaft. Really, if the shaft doesn't spin the bearing there's no reason for the bearing. You'd be better off with a bushing.

No, you do not re-use any part of the old bearing assembly, including the red piece. There is only a small gap around the flat sides of the steering shaft, and that gap will be covered by the intermediate shaft once it is slipped over the steering shaft. As for whether the shaft will spin in the bearing, I don't want to answer that as I have the column out of the truck and would like to wait to see how it fits when fully installed in the truck. However, I believe it may be possible for it to spin depending on the steering shaft. Remember, there may be manufacturing differences in the steering shaft thickness that affect how the bearing fits. It may fit tighter on some trucks than others, as evidenced by the fact that my 1986 intermediate shaft slipped on and off of my old 1986 column, but it takes some force to get it to slide onto the 1990 column I am using. That's the worry, Shaun, that the manufacturing tolerances of the rolled sheet metal shaft are such that some shafts may spin in the bearing. Which is probably why Ford used the o-ring as it takes up slack.

Clayton sent me a book entitled 1982 Engine Emissions Diagnosis that I scanned in today - all 740 pages. But as I pulled each page out of the book, gently, I saw what they contained and realized it is info we need to have easily accessed. And, when I tallied the numbers I realized that all up the scanned pages take up 316 Mb, which would take a long time to download if in one document. Given that, I opted for a different approach to hosting it and I'd like your input on what I did. The approach is to host the individual sections of the book on separate pages. I've embedded the Contents page below, which has active links on it to the pages/sections of the document. And, it is also seen on Documentation/Literature/1982 Literature/1982 ENGINE EMISSIONS DIAGNOSIS. But the other pages are available via the menu under 1982 Engine Emissions Diagnosis. Take a look at what's there, please. To me it is invaluable info that we are going to want to access. For instance, we were trying to explain how the PCV system works, but it is there. Want to know how the EGR system works? Yep, it is there. Someone asked how the air cleaner pieces work - and it is there. And probably how to pull the codes on the MCU as we were discussing. So, what do you think about the way I've put it up? Better ideas? This is an embedded Microsoft Office PDF, powered by Office.

I'd drive it the way it is and see how it does. Basically what you've done is go from a limited-flow capability carb to one that has a lot of flow capability. But that flow isn't used until you start winding the engine up. And that carb is jetted to handle a 350 cubic inch engine right from the box, so it isn't likely it needs to be changed to drop down to a 300.

Cool! Is there any chance the red filler piece will fit in to seal the openings between the bearing and the shaft? And, does the shaft fit tightly so it won't rotate in the bearing?

Congrat's! Glad you got it to idle down. Which Eddy do you have. The 1406 or 1405? 1405 is the performance version and is jetted for that. The 1406 is jetted for economy. A larger carb will do nothing for torque off-idle. The only place it'll really help is in letting the thing run better at WOT with the R's climbing.

Yes, smoke is done with the engine off, blowing into a vacuum hose and seeing where it comes out. But plug all ports first to see what is happening. And check the fit of the carb to the intake manifold. Or squirt brake cleaner there. There are problems sometimes getting an Eddy to seal to the intake.

I think you have a large vacuum leak. Try David's smoke test.

I'm not saying that those are my understandings. But it is an informed opinion arrived at by interviewing a lot of doctors and health-care professionals. As for humans being to stupid, I don't think you should tar all humans with the same brush. I think the smartest will be the more likely to survive.

There's a difference in "over" vs when we might return to some semblance of "normal". The opinion article I just read suggested that when we can start returning to a semblance of normalcy depends on lots of things, like whether those that have had it have any immunity to it, and if so when where we live reaches 60 - 80% of people having had it, and potentially when the heat comes on and the virus backs off - although they don't yet know if this one is seasonal. And even then, the new "normal" is likely to be things like baseball in empty stadiums until this is "over". But "over" won't be for another 12 - 18 months when a vaccine is developed. Then it may become like polio or small pox. There, but under control.

Dad's truck had it, as it has the holes for the screws, but it isn't on there. Big Blue has it.

I cannot find D9TE-AEA or D9TE 9510-AEA in the MPC. I do find several 9510-AEA's, but the closest I find is D9PZ 9510-AEA. However, the advert also lists E4TZ-S. That's shorthand for E4TZ 9510-S as 9510 is the generic part number for a carb. And I do see an E4TZ 9510-S for:

Johnny - You are now on the map. But would you be so kind as to set up a signature? That's explained on the Bullnose Forum/Forum FAQ's page. Thanks!

Assuming you mean pistons, I'd seriously consider new. They are aluminum and work against steel rings and cast iron cylinders, so they are what wears the most. And they aren't that expensive. As for the hone, assuming the wear is w/in tolerance, or close, then a glaze-busting hone is probably all that is called for.

Welcome! Nice truck. Glad you joined. Where's home? I ask because we have a map (Bullnose Forum/Member's Map in the menu) and I'd be happy to add you if I had a city. Hope you'll start a thread in the main section on your Bronco, and your '47 for that matter as we love to follow builds, regardless of year.

You can use a ring and check the cylinders w/it and feeler gauges. It is the difference in readings that is important, not the actual dimension. Yes, you are probably just needing to break the glaze. But don't miss what the General Engine Service section says: You have cross-hatching showing on some of the cylinders, and don't want to take much material away if you are using stock-sized pistons. So you want the hone that will leave the right cross-hatch but not take much off.

Looking at the Illustrations tab on our page on the 300 six (Documentation/Engines/300 Six) a rocker arm bolt/stud is generic part # 6A527. Looking on the Part Numbers tab I see that 1980-84 used one part number, apparently a stud, and '85 on used a bolt. On the fuel system, since you have the Eddy I'd put it on and see what you think. If you like it then why change? If not, perhaps then it is time for FI? As for the stock market, no I didn't. Glad you did and now you can buy more parts!

Are they present on your trucks Gary? Big Blue has it. I know as I was working in that area recently. Will check Dad's truck when I get to the shop.