Gary Lewis

I forgot something in my last post - the original battery isolator relay. I need to figure out what to do. The issue is that it is in the middle of the circuitry for the auxiliary battery volt meter. There's a key-on relay that connects that voltmeter to the aux battery post of the original isolator relay. Later, when the EFI goes in there will be a PDB on the driver's fender and that will house a key-on relay for the aux battery volt meter. But I need to decide what to do 'twixt now and then. As I see it there are two options: Leave the lead from the aux battery to the original isolator relay in place but pull the trigger off the isolator relay. This would be easy. But if I find a junction block and replace the isolator relay with that then that might be the time to change? Take the lead from the key-on relay off the isolator relay and extend it to the aux battery, but install an in-line fuse holder in the lead. Just thinking...... Your thoughts welcome.

Good point, Bill. I've included the '86 schematic below. It'll be interesting to see how his is wired. As for the filter, I'm not sure that is it as he ran a jumper to the pump and that solved the problem. But, do you think that by bypassing the resistor in the wiring that could do it with a dirty filter?

Well, I didn't get everything on the list done, but I got most of it and some I hadn't thought of: Starter: Bolted it in, and used blue Loctite as well as a lock washer on the lower bolt, and a lock washer on the top bolt. And, I connected it up. Grounds: Added the main ground cable from the battery to the frame and then on to the engine. And while I was at it I found the matching ground cable to go from the little connector on the battery cable to the fender. Reservoir: Found the little brace for it and then realized it needs to go right where the smart isolator needs to go. So I'm going to make a brace that comes from the bottom of the aux battery tray and goes up to the reservoir, thereby keeping that "ground" far away from the posts on the isolator. Isolator: With the position of the isolator decided I mounted it and then lengthened the purple and white wires and ran them into the cab along the hood release cable. Aux Battery: With the isolator in I placed the auxiliary battery on its tray. Here's a shot of the added ground on the battery's ground. You can see the connector dangling down from the negative post, and the far end of the run terminates under that screw on the fender just above the PDB. And here's the isolator mounted and its wires run with the hood release cable back into the cab: What I didn't get done from yesterday's list was the positive cables. Looks like I'll have to make a positive cable for the main battery, and I'll have to put a different terminal on an existing cable for the aux battery. That's on the list for tomorrow, as well as doing some neatening up and potentially making the brace for the reservoir. We shall see.

E3TZ-9189-A? No. That's the valve by itself from what I remember. He needs the switch/valve combo. I think this is it, from our page on Documentation/Fuel Systems/Fuel Systems Part #'s/Fuel Tank Selector Valve:

Awesome thank you! I have been to just about every town in Oklahoma except Skiatook, or at least I don't remember going there. But maybe if the Ford truck shows continue, I may end up coming out there! I hope to do the truck show this year. If so, it'll be Sept 19th. I have the place reserved, but who knows what is going to happen.

Thank you! It is raining now but when it dries up, I will take a gander at it and see if I can locate the issue. I will let you know what I find. And again Thank You! Welcome. That switch/valve is on the frame roughly below the driver, IIRC. As said, it is a known problem and is sometimes hard to find and expensive if you do.

That's a bit more complex, but not too bad. I'd start through the system inch by inch, starting at the tank selector valve/switch. If that doesn't work you won't get voltage to the pump. And they are a known problem.

WOW!

Greg - Good job on the signature. On the high pressure pump problem, the system isn't too complicated, as shown below from the '85 EVTM. (I've assumed that yours is a single tank system.) Where did you jump from and to with your makeshift power?

I did some playing with the new folders and realized that we ought to have threads within the Monthly Truck Photo Contest folder, and the admins will create each new thread - to which you should be able to reply. And once I figure out how to delete a folder I'll delete the one that's now named Mistake.

This is 66gtk's '83 F150 XL Shortbox California 302 (EEC-III), AOD, 3.55 - stock original drivetrain

As soon as I figure out how to the signature, I will do and post this in the main section. As far as where I am from, Originally, El Reno, Ok currently New Kent, VA You are now on the map. As for El Reno, that's not far from me. I'm just north of Tulsa in Skiatook.

All y'all: Please see this new thread: http://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/Monthly-Truck-Photo-Contest-td55147.html#a55148

I've set the Monthly Truck Photo Contest folder up so only admins can create topics w/in it or reply. But I think I set up the April 2020 folder so you can reply to it. Please go see. If that doesn't work, then I think I'll have to kill the April 2020 folder and make it just a reply

There's been some discussion about having a monthly photo contest for our trucks. We did this a couple of years ago when the forum was quite small and it kinda died out. But maybe now we have enough activity to warrant it. So, let's try this. I've created a new pinned folder called Monthly Truck Photo Contest, and within it I put up a folder for April. And I added 66gtk's truck's pic. PLEASE DO NOT POST IN EITHER OF THOSE FOLDERS AT THE MOMENT! They are to sorta figure out what we want to do, so let's keep the discussion in this thread. I think we need a vote process each month for the next month. Yes? I've added a poll in this thread to get our juices flowing. Please vote. And please reply.

Thinking...... What about a new sticky "folder" under Bullnose Forum called Monthly Photo Contest? Then each month of each year would get a new "folder" within that folder, and the month and year would be in the title. I've created that approach and put 66gtk's truck's picture in just to see how it would work. But, we really need to vote. I'm taking this to a new thread.....

We have Cory's on the About page. Are you suggesting we replace it? Or??? Do we need a Truck Of The Month page? Maybe Bullnose Forum/Truck Of The Month?

Yep. Turns out there were two, but it replaced the E0TZ version: 80/82 F—U100/350 "Before 1/82" ÿ EOTZ 17508-B WM-384-#E0TF 17504-AC-includes 17A436 output arm - r/b E2TZ 17508-A (11/82) 82/86 F—U100/350 "From 1/82" E2TZ 17508-A WM-388 #E2TF 17504-AB-includes 17A436 output arm

Beautiful!!!!

I does sound like a bore job is in the offing. And therefore an exchange on the pistons. But you'll also need the block hot-tanked as the shop probably won't work on it dirty. In the long run this will be for the best since you'll effectively have a new engine. But have them check the crank to ensure it is round rather than just polish it. It won't cost much more and gives you the longest life on your bearings.

It may just be the impetus needed to get Big Blue on the road. I was getting low on "mad money" but still need to get the EFI-to-carb adapter and have the dizzy set up, so will do that. And hopefully there will be enough left for sound deadening. But there's going to be a rather big bill for fluids as only the rear diff has anything in it. And then there's an exhaust system and alignment. Hmmmm.....

Welcome, Greg! What part of VA? I ask because we have a map (Bullnose Forum/Member's Map in the menu) and I'd be happy to add you if I just had a city. And, how 'bout creating a signature to describe your truck and include your name? Instructions on how to do that are in Bullnose Forum/Forum FAQ's. As for your truck, all the wiring diagrams are in the 1985 Electrical & Vacuum Troubleshooting Manual, aka EVTM. It is in the menu at Documentation/Electrical/EVTM/1985 EVTM. Those are Ford's schematics and are broken down by system so are both accurate awa very helpful. But for troubleshooting you'll want to start a thread about your truck in the main section as you'll get a lot more help there than here in the New Members section. (The way the forum works is rather odd and most people aren't subscribed to everything and, therefore, don't get notified when there are new posts. So they just troll the main section.) So post about your truck in the main section and I'm sure you'll get a lot of help. But take a look at the EVTM and you may spot something.

The isolator relay on my motorhome is mounted on the firewall right in front of my left knee. Can't get a lot more conspicuous location than that. It goes on when the engine builds oil pressure and cuts out when the engine loses oil pressure. I can't say I ever notice it coming on since that happens during engine start. I do hear a single "clunk" shortly after shutting off the engine, but Lesley's never asked "what was that noise?" or anything. I doubt anyone (other than you because you'll be listening for it) will ever really notice your smart isolator. You may be right. We shall see. I know on the boat, where I'm using its little brother, I never hear it disconnect, so hopefully it'll be unobtrusive. But if it truly disconnects at 12.7v then it may be quite a while before that happens as the batteries coast down from 14.4v.

Those running boards are shiney! That will save you a LOT of effort. And NOS probably applies as they may not be making them now. And the head unit's installation looks perfect. I'm really impressed and may need to follow your leade at some point on that. Good luck on cutting the bezel!

Scott - Your pics help, for sure. Thanks. You have a lot more running across the radiator support than I do. All I have are the ~#6 to the aux battery, #10 high beam, #12 low beam, and two #16's for the fuel pump. (The trailer feed comes off of the #6 on the battery isolator on the driver's side.) So my bundle is only 3/4" in diameter, and as there are 8 of that size clamps I should be ok. I may find I should have run something larger than that ~#6, but it is what Ford used to run from the alternator's output on the passenger's side to the PDB on the driver's side, and the whole truck ran off it. So I reasoned that since the vast majority of the truck will still be running off the PDB on the passenger's side, that at least for now this wire should be adequate for the aux battery. We shall see. Which brings me to the aux battery relay. It currently comes in when the key is turned to Run, drops out when you go to Start, and comes back in when you go to Run. Given that, there is a LOT of clacking going on as you start. And since it is on the firewall right in front of you it gets your attention. So I like the idea of replacing it with a junction point like that. I'll look for one when I get to the salvage. But I'm hoping that the CH smart isolator will be a bit less conspicuous. First, it is mounted about 2/3 of the way forward on the fender instead of directly on the firewall. And second, it won't come in until the engine is already running, which may mask the noise. But as I think about it, it'll drop out after the engine is turned off, so that may be noticeable. Hmmm, I may still have some of the special grommets that I used to cushion the CD player in my Miata. If it is obnoxious I may resort to using them.