Gary Lewis

There are a number of wires. But each fuse is on the bus, so there's just the wires from the fuses. And most of the relay slots didn't have the 5th wire, the one on the normally-closed connection, but some did. And there were lots more fuses than needed. So I cleaned out probably 10 or 12 wires today, and then taped the ones for each relay together, making it much more manageable. Tomorrow I'll run the wires from the fuses to the relays, which will make it even simpler looking. Then, all I'm left with are the wires that connect to the harnii. We are on the home stretch! Once installed it won't look custom. It'll look like it belongs. And it won't look big as the battery will dwarf it.

Don't feel badly, I have a LOT of experience with the EVTMs, plural and still misplace things I know are in there. Having said that, I've realized that a pdf version of the EVTMs would be handy at times. The other day I was looking for a connector and that can be like looking for a needle in a hay stack. But, if I had the whole EVTM in a single doc as a pdf, it would be duck soup to search.

I think your way and Scott's way are easier. But I've been wanting to do this "upgrade", if indeed it is, for years on a Bullnose. And with the 1G-to-3G plus ammeter-to-voltmeter swaps, I needed to get into the wiring. But I didn't want that shunt still there, so.... And I needed relays. And..... things mushroomed as they always do with me. I'm going to be happy - when it is done. And the big FORD oval on the lid to the PDB is going to have people asking questions. As will the dual snorkel air cleaner, at least until the EFI goes on.

Looking good! I really like the underhood light and toolbox.

You can go here (Documentation/Fasteners/Fenders & Aprons) and see the ones Cory is talking about. And you can click on the box surrounding their part number and be taken to a pic.

Yes, all the wires have a base color and then two stripes. And if I didn't have the PDB going in the perfect spot I'd probably leave the fuse links in place. But I do so I won't.

Originally E2TZ 1015-D, it was replaced by E7TZ 1015-C r/b E7TZ 1015-B And it is: 15 x 7.0 5 bolt 5.50" circle E7TZ 1015-B 5 F 100/ 150—bright argent

For 4-speed overdrive transmissions: 80/83 F 100/350,U150 4 O/D EOTZ 7277-H Trans, shift lever inner dust seal, also serv. in 7210 assy.

I did get the alternator back together, and I did get the retainers in PDB out, save for the retainer holding the diode terminals in. And since I am using one of the diodes, that means I'll just have to roll the wires to the other one up in the PDB. Then, with the retainers out, I pulled out the wires and terminals that I won't use. And, in doing so, I worked through the diagram shown previously for the PDB. Sure enough, there were several problems. I now have those sorted and I think the diagram is correct. Tomorrow I'll tie together the fuse, relay, and diode connectors inside the PDB and then populate it and test it. If it works properly I'll re-install the retainers and call the PDB good. And at that point I'll pull out the partial harness I have, remove the fuse links, and extend the wires to reach the PDB. Speaking of the retainers, here's a shot of the PDB with the retainers in place. I've circled where the clips are that have to be released in order to get the retainers out. Most of them are easily released, but the two inside the circle in the upper left were particularly tough. The retainers are buttons made of the black plastic of the PDB itself, and they face each other. I finally got the released by pushing a screwdriver in there that was just the right width to push to the two buttons apart and got the retainer out - without breaking anything. And here's what the PDB looks like w/o the retainers: The shot on the left is of the bottom with all the wires in, and the one on the right is with the extraneous ones removed:

Well said.

Ouch!

Beautiful! You've really done well.

Wow! It is looking great! As for the vent hose, it goes up the shift lever, inside the boot. See if this helps:

I think your screen is stuttering. Look again. Yes, I forgot to check. Thanks.

As shown below, C305 is an 11-pin connector, and it is curved. So that's not 305 you've found. I still think you have a turn signal switch problem. And I suggest taking a DVM our a test light and get to C305 and test those wires there. Are you getting voltage on the white/light blue wire there? If not, you have a turn signal switch problem.

I've never changed one. I have removed some as I was stripping vehicles, but saved them 'cause I think they'll still work.

That's pretty much what I was envisioning, although I was thinking the sides would be the same all the way back so there's no chance it'll rock as you flip the switches. But, as I'm sure you've discovered, those sides aren't parallel nor square. Probably for casting purposes, there's a taper to the pocket so your print has to account for that - and probably already does. Does the back of that piece accept the switches, or is this just the conceptualized version? When it does, all you need is a collar piece that will go down over the backs of the switches and clamp them to the front piece. And speaking of that, I did a bit of playing with one of those switches, my instrument bezel with the fog lamp bezel on it, and a spare dash I have in the attic. It looks to me like a tank switch w/o the mounting arm could be mounted to the back of the dash using the collar approach. It may take a spacer in front to get the pivot point just right, but that spacer could be glued to the backside of the dash and have threads or studs on it to accept the collar, thereby capturing the switch.

I missed that, but I see what you are saying. Doesn't say it is special.

C305 is on the left hand side of the steering column, so that's not it. Can you follow the wires back from the lights to see if there's a connector disconnected?

We can't tell you that off the tops of our heads as we don't know what ones they used and what ones they didn't. But, if you take good pics, and post them as large as you can on here, we might be able to figure it out. Conversely, if they aren't connected and the truck runs well you can remove them w/o figuring out which ones they are. My thoughts on which ones you need are shown here: Documentation/Underhood/http://www.garysgaragemahal.com/vacuum-systems.html.

My MPC says it fits 1980 through the end of the catalog, which is 1989. So I can't vouch for the 1990-96. And the fact that it is a "D8" says it will also fit 1978 & 9. 80/ U150 D8TZ 9842624-A

To echo what Bill said, I've learned from him and have EEC-V systems for both Big Blue and Dad's truck. Big Blue won't get his for some time, but it has the E4OD controls turned off so I can run the ZF5 manual tranny. And Dad's truck has the E4OD installed, but not the EFI yet. Both are works in progress. Now, to add to what Bill said, I believe EEC-V is the only way to get an operative OBD-II port on these trucks. (While I think some of the EEC-IV's for the smaller engines came with an OBD-II port they weren't operative. But it is true of the 460's.) And I wanted OBD-II so my offspring can have the trucks I hand off to them maintained, and they aren't mechanics. My thinking is that just about anybody has an OBD-II scanner, but the aftermarket is changing so rapidly that support for today's aftermarket EFI might not be available in 10 years.

Hadn't noticed that, either. Presumably there's a bracket in the kit for the switch? That took me to the MPC and I've discovered that this kit may not be for the F or U-series trucks. I say that because there are three kits listed, as shown below. The first kit specifically says it is Marchal and yet the instruction sheet is IS - 4844. But the instructions with the ebay kit, above, are 4852. The second kit doesn't say what brand it is nor does it say what the instruction sheet's # is. It is possible it is this one. The third one says it is the Blazer brand, so isn't it. Not to say they won't work on our trucks, but they may not be perfectly "correct".

81/82 E-F-U100/250 5.0L E1TZ 9A589-A *CM-3571 Used for EGR valve spacer-aluminum-use 1/4" cap C9AZ 9C492-C to cover 1/4" inlet tube when req'd

I didn't, but I see now that it is the adhesive stuff from early '85, which fits with the 2/85 production date.