Gary Lewis

Yep.

Yes, a vacuum leak would cause a problem. Hang in there, you are making progress.

I guess it made sense?

The air cleaner not being fully installed won't change the fuel pressure. Go ahead and try to start it?

The bi-color LED is really two LEDs in one housing. I've attempted to depict that with the dotted line around the pair on the left. So all you need to do is to parallel that LED combo with two other discrete LEDs, as shown. They should all work just fine when wired together, but when you get your two working you can take out the combination/bi-color LED.

I got lost. Let me do some drawing.......

David is right - a stock Bullnose alternator isn't really enough to power the fan and the rest of the vehicle. From a quick Google I'm finding that they pull 33 amps. Some of these trucks had 40 amp alternators, and the biggest was a 60. So if you have the 40 it can't possibly work, and if you have the 60 it won't work well. One issue is that the alternators are rated at an engine speed of 1500ish, and at a light where you need the max cooling it won't be providing more than a trickle. So if you are going with electric fan(s) you should consider a 3G upgrade at the same time.

Forgetting that there are three wires, lets focus on the two pins. As you said, one goes negative and the other positive for red, and the reverse for green. So, if you replaced the one LED with two, one green and one red, but reversed their polarity you'd have the same functionality. If wired correctly the green would be on when you are connected but not braking, and the red would be off. Then, when braking the green would go out and the red would come on. (If wired the wrong way 'round the red would come on when connected and the green during braking.) Is that what you want? If so, use a pair of jumpers from the existing LED to your green and get it going when connected. Then add a pair of jumpers for the red. All the LEDs should work fine with the others there.

True, but I'm not selling them. Ron is. But, where's Ron?

As we know, E0TB is not the prefix for a part number. Instead that is the prefix for an ID #, and the associated part number's prefix is probably E0TZ. So that makes these: Plate (center body pillar) "XLT" (1980/81) EOTZ 9850398-A R.H, and L.H But I cannot find the other two in the catalog.

Sold! (And not to me.)

EOTZ 5486-A Front-bracket-stab, bar to frame 80 F-U150 - - 4/W/D 80/86 F250/350 - - 2/W/D 81/86 F150--(Super cab)--4/W/D

The vast majority of what I've done could have been done on that lathe, Bill. You will love it.

That's a really NICE truck! Not sure I'd pay $27K for it, but it sure is clean.

Yes! I meant to mention that. That's Ron/reamer. You could email him.

There's no specified torque for the studs themselves that I know of. But if you lube them with the special ARP lube, like you will the tops for the nuts, then they'll torque down the same as the nuts when you torque them. And, that is 23 - 25 ft-lbs, as shown on Page 44 of the factory shop manual here: Documentation/Engines/Windsor, and then the Instructions tab. But also note that Page 17 shows the torque sequence and says that you should torque them down in two steps. I'd probably snug the nuts up by hand, and then torque them to 10 ft-lbs, then go back over them at 20, and then to 25.

I've had good luck with the Coverlay covers. In fact, I have one I'm going to put on Big Blue. But you have a point about the base over which they go. I wonder if it would be good to coat the cracked one with something before gluing on the cover? Dave has tried various things, so maybe he has some ideas?

That is going to be FUN! I can't imagine being w/o my lathe. You'll find it so helpful that you'll use it a lot more often than you can imagine.

That may be, but the extra length was enough to cause the BW1356 to hit the floor on Dad's truck.

Thanks, Frank. I, too, like the position as it gives easy access to both the battery and the alternator, as well as the wiring into the cab. And the stand came with the PDB from the mid-90's F-Series truck. If fits very nicely there, and about all I need to do is to bend up the two tabs on the front so they don't dig into the fender liner, and then drill holes through the bracket to match those in liner. Then I'll bolt it in using large fender washers. Here's how it'll be wired, although it has a choke relay and that's not needed. And it has only two fuses for fuselink replacement. Plus, it doesn't show Fuselink T, the one that goes to the fuel pump with a pink wire w/a black hashn from the starter relay. But I'll fix all three of those issues. Here's a shot of the PDB from the bottom, showing the bottom cover and the stand, both of which snap into the PDB. And to Scott's question, here's a shot that shows the bus. Note the Megafuse connects to it, so the battery and starter will connect to the lug on the top in the pic, which will be the one on the left or front when looking at the top pic. And the alternator will connect to the rear stud. Also note the yellow wire that crosses over the shield I'm prying out of the way so you can see the bus. That wire, and a few others like them, are the power to the relays. All six relay positions are pre-wired and it just takes connecting to their trigger and output circuits to use them.

This makes me wonder if I need to do anything to accommodate the E4OD I have on standby. The issue I had with Dad's truck was that the t-case hit because the E4OD moved it back too far. But if yours is a 2wd then I don't think you'll have a problem. If you do, I have a solution.

First, the L&L headers are at Jet-Hot and I've approved the work. The guestimated date for us to pick them up is April 6th. As for the PDB's, thanks, Bill. The Ford boxes are similar. The one I think I'll use is from a mid-90's F-Series truck. Here's what it looks like in position with its bracket/stand on it. More on it in just a bit, but note where the connections are for the 3G that I got from Jim - thanks again, Jim. Brandon said his son's 3G is clocked the same way, and it looks to us like it should be re-clocked to put the connections basically on top. What do y'all think?

I will readily admit that the 3.5L EB doesn't have a good exhaust sound. The 5.0 blows it away from a sound standpoint. But that little 3.5L EB will run and hide from the 5.0L. So, if you could put the EB system on a 5.0 you'd have the best of both worlds. However, from what I've read about the 3.5, Ford went to great lengths to make it stand up to the boost. It was designed for it from the ground up. Not sure the 5.0 will stand up to ~14" of boost w/o lots of beefing.

My bad! It was Jonathan, not Shaun.

Lots of work, Ray, but it looks great! Well done! By the way, a guy on FB asked "You don't happen to be the Gary from a thread with ray1986f150 about a wooden flatbed and his truck painted red?" I said "That's me", and he said "That thread is extremely helpful. Especially his 3d drawings" and provided this pic: