Gary Lewis

OK, try this... I disconnected the the plugs for an example. Pretend the connector on the right is C606 in my Non-AC truck. The two wires on the left are from the AC harness. One is brown/white, and the other is brown/orange. It looks like all I have to do is simply open up the C606 connector in my truck, and connect the two halves to the two wires of the AC harness. Does that make sense? If you look at the two diagrams in the EVTM for heat only, and then heat/AC, the AC wiring simply inserts in between the fuse and the blower. That should be all I have to do. Dawn! Marblehead! Yes! I agree.

On the front passenger's side corner of the carb according to the illustration I have. And it has three wires to it, which you can see in the schematic below - and while it isn't completely accurate for your truck, the TPS circuit is correct: Orange/White: VREF, which is Circuit 351 Dark Green/Light Green: Circuit 355 Black/White: SRTN which is Circuit 359 As for testing it, go to Documentation/Electrical/ELECTRONIC ENGINE CONTROL (EEC) and go to the EEC-III tab. Then scroll down to Page 28-64, where the testing is explained. But note that they mention the name of the signal going to the TPS, and not the color of the wire. However, they also show the circuit #, which is why I did the translation above.

Correct. The connector genders are reversed between C606 and C606A. Well, what I meant was, it looks like the harness in my truck was made to accept the AC harness. I should be able to open up connector C606 on my truck, and then plug both wires from the AC harness into each half of the C606 connector. In other words, no splicing. Just plug and play. I won't know for sure until I get in there and actually try it, but at least I know where to connect the two wires from the AC harness, even if I do have to splice them in (But I assume I do not). If by "open up connector C606 on my truck, and then plug both wires from the AC harness into each half of the C606 connector" you mean pull the terminals out of the shells then I think I'm with you. Maybe. Can you say that another way?

If it was me I'd pull the connector to the throttle position sensor, but a DVM on it, and watch to see what happens as you slowly open and close the throttle. (Actually what would be better would be an analog ohm meter so you could see the meter move.)

Ok, clarification...maybe... I just went back through the EVTM again because it just wasn't making sense to me. I was looking at the "AC-Heater" page thinking it referred to both AC and Heat, but that is not the case. I found the Heat (only) page that refers to my truck, and it shows connector C606. So, correct me if I'm wrong here, but I should be able to disconnect connect C606 shown above, and plug each half into the two connectors on the AC/Heat controller, and then I have C606 and C606A? The two connectors from the AC truck are reversed...the male and female ends of the connectors. So I should disconnect the two dead/cut-off ends, and then the two halves remaining should plug into the two halves of connector C606 in my truck. Does that sound correct? They may not be in the 100% correct location, but electrically that would be correct, no? This is getting scary - I pulled out my '84 EVTM and opened it to the right page on the first try. (But if you'd stick width="100%" in the html generated for your pics I might be able to read them. For instance: nabble_img src="SPOUT_Connector.jpg" border="0"width="100%"/ with the pointy things on each end taken off.) And yes, you figured it out, there's a page for Heater and one for AC. Anyway, I'm confused. I thought I understood the EVTM such that the >> meant that the connector on the left is the male and the one on the right is the female. So, C606 should be oriented the same as C606A. But I think you are saying that they changed the genders between the two - right? If that is the case you should be able to connect the cast-off C606 connector to the cast-off C606A connector and change the genders back. Is that what you meant?

I don't know if you disconnect it or ground it. Does someone know?

Oh, so you think that the C606A will not be in my Non-AC truck? I think it is either or, but not both. Don't know why, but that seems to be the case.

Since that's on Photobucket, which seems to have a hole in it, let's put it here:

Did it die in the intersection in the second video? On transition from idle? It seemingly runs well save for what appear to be problems on transitions. So I'm hoping you can get that sorted and not have to pull all the other stuff off. But, if you do, here are some thoughts: The EEC systems I've been around on these trucks were stand-alone systems, meaning they had their own wiring. The ECA/ECU on my '82 was under the driver's seat and there was a boot that went into the floor to seal the wire. I wound up cutting the harness not far off the ECA, traced those wires to each of the senders/actuators, and then removed each of those awa the associated wiring. It wasn't too bad since it was an add-on harness so wasn't integrated into the other wiring. Sometimes it went under another harness, but I could usually slide it out and continue following it to the sender or actuator. You'll have a large tote full of "stuff" if you do that. And you'll have to replace the distributor and ignition module as well as the wiring to it. Plus, the carb is a feedback unit, and there won't be any input to it. You could try to run it and see how it does. It may work just fine, or it may not. But you said you have the dizzy, ignition module, wiring, and carb, so you are basically set.

Gary, as Peter Griffin once said, you are as cool as the other side of the pillow! Thank you sir, that picture is exactly what I needed. One of the connectors was broken off, and it wasn't clear to me what it was supposed to be attached to, but now it is. The wiring for the AC is really quite simple, so this is going to be a pretty easy install. A lot of time, yes,...but not difficult. The picture below are the two wires/connectors that I cut from the harness of the donor truck. These should be connectors C606 and C606A, and if I'm understanding the wiring correctly, these same two connectors should also be in my Non-AC equipped F150. Would you agree with that thought? The only other stray if this one wire off the AC harness closer to the plug for the AC compressor clutch. It must be for the throttle kicker, which I hadn't planned on using. I might just delete that wire...it's burned and melted anyway. Dad would have said "If that's a complement then I thank you." Looking at the 1984 EVTM (your pic is a bit small) I agree that C606 should be in the truck if it is non-AC, and C606A will be there if it is an AC truck. Both are gray and have a single pin, and connect BR/O wires. So, you should be good to go. And that should be the throttle kicker, but if your idle is adequate you probably won't need it.

Troy - Can you do us a favor and create a signature that tells us about the truck? I went back to the email you sent this morning and I know it is an '83 CA f150 with a 302. But the others won't. The signature creation info is on the Bullnose Forum/Forum FAQ's page. The problems you've described sound like a throttle position sensor issue. If the ECA doesn't know where the throttle is it will cause all sorts of problems, and your issues seem to be associated with changing the throttle position. The 1983 EVTM doesn't provide any testing info on the TPS, other than to say it "sends one of three signals to the ECA to indicate closed, partially open, or wide open throttle". Then it says to "Read Section 29 of the Shop Manual." But the only piece of the '83 shop manual that I have is the Engine section, and it ends at Section 28. Maybe someone else has the '83 FSM?

I think Jim is right, but I sure can't find something that says definitively. Not even in the shop manual.

So, my plan as of this 10 seconds in time is to carry on with the transformation w/o buying any headlights. It'll probably be quite some time before I need to install lights, and if I get there before I'm ready to spend any money I have the headlights that came out of Big Blue. But, probably by then the Koito's will be available.I've just updated the schematic for the smaller Key=On fuse, so I'm going to embed the PDB schematic here. That way as I update it this particular post will always be correct. But I have a question for y'all: Should I go back to the other posts where I've included the schematic and replace them with this "evergreen" version? I would hate it if someone used the wrong one as the wiring is evolving and getting closer to "correct". An advantage of doing it this way is that you/the reader can download a copy or zoom in to see detail. Thoughts?

Let's see if this helps:

Wow! The second one at $10 plus $6.15 for shipping is a STEAL! Compare that to $69.99 + $10.30 for the other one. They are both the right ones for our trucks.

And, I forgot - I'll take the pics around the resistor pack. Big Blue is in just the right shape to do that.

Or, you could go to Documenation/HVAC/HVAC Systems and on the Part Numbers tab you'll find:

That's a pretty good list from my standpoint. Well done!

Yes, nicely done! So it is tucked in ahead of the battery in that unused space. Cool!

Sometimes the other, non-Bullnose, projects make us appreciate our trucks. Perhaps that's what they are for?

Don't know when VSS was first used, but I've not seen a Bullnose with it. And even when it first started they used an adapter that gave both an electrical as well as mechanical connection.

Looking good, Shaun. Thought you'd settle on Ranger XLT.

So, if I put a power-robbing open air cleaner and a few lights on a roll bar, take out the D60 and the ZF5, Armor All the boots, and add some flashy wheels can I get that out of Big Blue?

You may have multiple problems. But first, when you say "adjustment screw", you do mean the curb idle adjusting screw shown below. Right? If that has no effect then you have a significant air leak. On the 300 six the carb attaching nuts have a tendency of loosening, so make sure it is tightened down, but don't break anything. If that isn't it check all of the hoses and vacuum caps for cracks. David will teach you how to do the smoke test to check for leaks if needed. I'll let someone else speak to the notch. And yes the computer is in limp mode. You will need to to replace the ignition system, but you may get by with the existing carb.

Yes, good price. Wish it was for our trucks. Note that the advert is wrong - it is not for a Bronco, but a Bronco II, as well as for the little Ranger.