Gary Lewis

Looking good! Well done. And good luck on the vacuum. Let it sit for a while and it'll help boil some of the moisture out.

I hate to bring this up being so old but it is time to do this to my truck and have a question. First I could not find this in Documentation did it get left out? Maybe in the "up grade: area? If I under stand the control using the #1 port we have the water shut off in AC max & vent, is this true? What would happen if we tee'd into port #3? We then also have the water off in normal would this be a issue? I am also thinking if the water was off in any of the control settings moving the temp control would do nothing right? Dave ---- No problem bringing it up. If you tap into #3 then you won't have any temp control. And, as you said, the temp lever would do nothing. And it is in Documentation/HVAC/HVAC Systems and on the Heat Shut-Off tab. Is there a better place?

We are a hugging congregation too, so it wasn't going to work very well for us. But, I fear you are right - our congregation will be smaller when this is over.

Looks good!

Me - Not AT church, but from 11:00 to just now we were together via Zoom and Facebook Live. We cancelled all services as of last Sunday and have gone on-line.

Thanks, good to be back! Not that I'd ever really left...and I have been reading up on some threads periodically. But with one thing and another the truck has taken a back seat for a while, so not a whole lot of cause to post here. Although now that spring has arrived, I expect that to change somewhat. And it was definitely a lonely ride to the wing joint to pick up dinner, but the truck *has* made some new friends recently. At the last robotics competition before the season got cancelled, the organizers gave us half of the competition carpet, on the condition we could haul it home that night: Are you taking classes from home? Nope! Those of us who have finally graduated have no need for online learning. Sorry, forgot you'd graduated. Good job! As for the robotics competition, so many things have been canceled it makes me wonder what life will be like afterward. But, these sacrifices are pretty small in comparison to what some are making. I won't complain.

Ok folks, some questions for which I'd like answers. But first, I think I have the new Literature page working properly. Please take a look, but here are the notable changes: The years across the top are links which will take you to the page for that year and which shows the covers to all the literature, and which you can click to be taken to it I changed from check marks (a "P" on iDevices) to On Site, which means it is on the site, or Have, which means I own it but haven't gotten it on the site. All of the On Sites are links which you can click to be taken there And now for the questions: 1. I also included the EVTM's, which are publications and several are on the site. But they aren't on the annual pages. And, if I go that way I'll need to add all of the factory shop manuals I have. But I don't have the whole shop manual on, and don't intend to do. Help? 2. I've also added another tab that has links to the stuff that is under the Misc tab. It sure seems to clutter things up. Should I take that tab off?

Looks good, Ron. Do you have a recommendation on tubing size?

Looks great, Ron! Well done.

Bill - You triggered a thought and perhaps identified the connector. I wondered how many times and where C128 is mentioned in the '85 EVTM. Then I remembered that I have a copy of that EVTM in PDF and it has been OCR'd. So I opened it up and searched. It is shown in both the start circuit awa the backup light circuit, but nowhere else in circuits. But then why is it an 18-pin connector? The key was that while on Page 32 it is said to have 18 pins, which is what I was looking for last night, on Page 82 it is said to have 4 pins. And I know where that connector is, I just didn't pay any attention yesterday as it couldn't be the one as it wasn't big enough. Page 32 on the left and Page 82 on the right:

Maybe just a speaker patch?

Yep, it has plenty of gas tanks. Yep, it is ORANGE! Would be just right in certain college towns. But apparently the engine wasn't important in the advert as it doesn't say much about it other than "VERY HEALTHY RUNNING V8 ENGING".

And it surely has the 300 six under the hood. Not sure what else to say, but they were minimalists. There ain't much there!

I scraped off the bigger clumps of the stuff, but I'd like to clean it all off. I often use Lacquer Thinner for difficult stuff like this, but I'm not sure if it will damage the plastic or not... I don't know what it'll do, but you could test it on the inside of the case somewhere. It doesn't soften all plastics and might not this.

Gary has enough challenges right now with his own wiring issues. It is amazing what people do to vehicles, and what can happen to them w/o modification. In the last week I've found at least 10 atrocities, from wire that had chafed and worn through the insulation to cuts and the ends just twisted together - some w/o tape.

Ha! I might forget a lot of things, but drinking coffee wouldn't be one of them...lol. My apologies Gary...I didn't realize that those threads were misplaced. I do usually go directly to the Ebay section for my posts, but if I missed it I missed it. Full disclosure I am in a bit of a stupor sometimes at 3 and 4am when I am doing this...lol. I would prefer to be sleeping at those times instead of being online, but sometimes I am reluctantly awake:nabble_smiley_cry: No problemo. We appreciate the sleuthing you get done in your stupor.

The neutral safety switch came into being in '84, I think, and the various EVTM's show the wiring to it differently and, I think, none show it correctly. But it appears that Ckt 32 comes from the ignition switch to the clutch switch, then out of the cab and down the frame rail to C128, which is said to be "near the dual brake warning switch on LH side of crossmember." At C128 it either wraps back if the vehicle has a manual trans or goes to the neutral safety switch on an auto. From there it goes back through C128 and up the frame rail to C121, which is "below the junction block" on the firewall near the steering column, where it splits with one side going to the start relay on the passenger's side and the other going to the ignition module on the driver's side. Yesterday I couldn't find either of those connectors. Which is strange because C128 is said to be an 18-pin connector, so should be pretty obvious. But if I get to the shop today I'm going to go over it very closely and trace the circuit. Somewhere there's a disconnect in it and I'm going to find it. Then, I may do some "simplification", but not 'til I figure out what is going on. For reference, here's where the EVTM's show the connectors"

Not a bad price. Good luck on the loan.

Yes, Big Blue has that stuff. It is really, REALLY hard to get off.

Sam - By "literature link in the Documentation thread" do you mean that if you click on Documentation and then click on Literature that nothing happens? If so, that's by design - it is just supposed to be a placeholder so you go to the pages below it. But I've now put the spreadsheet on a clickable page called Literature, so does that fix the problem you were seeing?

Ok, I'll admit it, I messed up. Orange/black, brown/orange, black/orange. Man, did I have it wrong. But it is right now and everything but the starter and fuel pump relay are working. More 'bout that in a minute, but I did find a problem in my design - the blower relay is pulled in all the time if the blower switch is in high, whether the key is off or on. So I have to change the blower relay such that its coil is powered by the Key-On relay - instead of the 30a fuse I currently have powering the coil. Now for the Start relay. I did as you suggested, Jim, and put a mini-fuse in the clutch switch. No go, literally. So I checked and I have 12v to both sides of the fuse, but it doesn't get to my Start relay. Then I checked between the ignition model and my relay and the red/light blue wire does connect the two, just like it should. But, there's no connection from under the hood to inside the cab, meaning to the clutch switch. I think this is the problem I was having intermittently before the transformation, but it has come back in spades. And apparently it wasn't the tilt column. In any event, the first diagram below shows that I have power from the ignition switch to the clutch switch. The second diagram shows where I don't have power. In both diagrams I've circled the connectors where I think the problem might lie. So tomorrow I hope to figure out where the problem is, and those connectors are where I'll start.

Do wires know what colors they wear? Looks like I put the relay in the brown/orange wire instead of the orange/black wire. So instead of the relay, should it pull in, grounding the motor it'll ground the 30a fuse. Gotta go........

Thanks, guys. I'll do some more playing with it and create a page for Literature and put it on it. But, do you think we should keep the individual year-by-year pages? Also, I've just realized there are other docs that aren't on a yearly basis, and those are under Misc. Gotta figure out what to do with them.....

There were other things on, inc the door-open buzzer, which got obnoxious so I closed the doors. I'll check to see what it pulls by itself. Hooked up the starter battery through a fuse so I could test things. Tried the starter relay, but someone put a clutch switch in the circuit, so it doesn't come in. And the same guy hasn't installed the slave cylinder, so he's a bit reluctant to push the pedal down for fear it'll over-extend the slave. I'll see if there's power to the switch and maybe jumper it. Tried the headlights and the high and low beam outputs work perfectly, so I need to get the wire. And will check the Key-On relay, which will be obvious via the voltmeter which replaced the ammeter. Tried the blower motor, and no dice on any speed. Not sure what that means, but I'll check that out after this coffee/brownie break. Can't be the relay I put in as it only put it in the ..... wrong wire? Uh Oh! Gotta go look!