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The Return of Rusty

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Gary Lewis

Re: The Return of Rusty

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Right, Shaun. I'd not put the original bushing in and then take it to the alignment shop. You are likely to have to remove that bushing and order one of these Moog adjustable eccentrics.

Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
Blue: 2015 F150 Platinum 4x4 SuperCrew wearing Blue Jeans & sporting a 3.5L EB & Max Tow
Big Blue: 1985 F250HD 4x4: 460/ZF5/3.55's, D60 w/Ox locker & 10.25 Sterling/Trutrac, Blue Top & Borgeson, & EEC-V MAF/SEFI

ArdWrknTrk

Re: The Return of Rusty

Administrator

In reply to this post by ClayJ

Clay, I can't tell you how to determine the alignment bushings on a 150.

But I'm going to make two suggestions.

1) Before you change any of the steering, get under there with a steam Jenny and blast all that crud off.
Maybe you can find someone like a truck repair shop who has one and is willing to do it for you?
While they're great for blasting grease, mud and paint off the undercarriage, this type of live steam power washer will melt and blow all the grease out of any joints, replacing it with water and condensation.
So you're going to want to grease your ball joints after.

2) When you install new springs go ahead and drive Rusty over some trails or something for a few days before getting an alignment.
New springs need too be exercised before they'll settle down to their proper ride height.
There's no point going for an alignment and then have them taking a set.

Doing this driving on dirt is not going to tear up the tires if the alignment is out of whack, and the springs do need to flex.

Jim,
Lil'Red is a '87 F250 HD, 4.10's, 1356 4x4, Zf-5, 3G, PMGR, Saginaw PS, desmogged with a Holley 80508 and Performer intake.
Too much other stuff to mention.

ClayJ

Re: The Return of Rusty

In reply to this post by salans7

Shaun, I've done some reading and it seems most guys go with the adjustable bushings like you said so I'll add those to the list. Heck, i may as well rebuild the entire front end to include upper and lower ball joints while I'm in this far.

Jim, since I've already started the tear down it looks like I'll be doing the clean up by hand with a non metallic scraper and plenty of brake cleaner. I could get all the components replaced within a few months, budget allowing, and hit some dirt before heading to the alignment shop.
Does anyone have a current discount code for Blue Top Steering?

Thanks for all the advice guys, I really appreciate it. All suggestions are welcome.

Rusty 1981 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4 400 w/ RV cam, Edelbrock 1906 4bbl w/400 performer intake, C6 xmsn, NP 208 TC, 9" rear diff 3.50 gears, Proform HEI Distributor, Powermaster 1-wire alternator upgrade (75 Amp), Rough Country 2.5" Suspension Lift.

ArdWrknTrk

Re: The Return of Rusty

Administrator

I didn't realize you were into it already, Clay.

They say "It's only new once" so I guess if you're going in you might as well go deep.

Jim,
Lil'Red is a '87 F250 HD, 4.10's, 1356 4x4, Zf-5, 3G, PMGR, Saginaw PS, desmogged with a Holley 80508 and Performer intake.
Too much other stuff to mention.

Gary Lewis

Re: The Return of Rusty

Administrator

I think you have a solid plan, but I do like the idea of replacing the ball joints while in there. You'll have the top joint busted loose to put the eccentric in, so why not do it "right".

Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

ClayJ

Re: The Return of Rusty

Ok gents, I went conservative and sent Rusty's old steering gear and pitman arm into Blue Top Steering for a rebuild as they were out of stock part number 2757 for a few weeks. I must say the rebuilt gear was packaged very well and it sure looks sharp with that blue top. It matches my valve covers perfectly. I left the steering linkage alone besides replacing a dust boot for the center link to pitman arm connection. Just not ready to bite off a complete front end build just yet. Good news is the steering feels great. No need to reinstall the Monroe steering stabilizer I had put on last year. Here's a before and after of Rusty's steering gear.

grumpin

Re: The Return of Rusty

Looks nice!

Dane
1986 F250HD SC XLT Lariat 4x4 460 C6-Sold
1992 Bronco XLT 4x4 351W E4OD
1998 GMC Sierra SLE K1500 350 4L60E
Arizona

Gary Lewis

Re: The Return of Rusty

Administrator

In reply to this post by ClayJ

Yes, that does look great! I'm glad that it tightened up the steering so well that you don't need the damper. I'd often wondered if that might be the case, and you've proven it.

Sure glad Rusty has found such a good home.

Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

Machspeed

Re: The Return of Rusty

Administrator

In reply to this post by ClayJ

That looks great, Clay! I've heard great things about Blue Top Steering. Seems there's another outfit with an equal reputation.

I've replace much of the front end on my Truck twice now. The last time I did it, probably a couple years ago, I thought the steering box was probably the issue. However, when I raised the truck and got the wheels off the ground to eval, I realized my front end was shot! In fact, it was scary worn out. I replaced everything with MOOG, the best I could get and if feels good again. Still, it is concerning to me the wear rate of the OEM stuff and the previous stuff I put on.

John

"Blackie" - 1986 F150 4x4 - Mildly warmed over 351W HO - Original owner

FuzzFace2

Re: The Return of Rusty

I did a Red Head box on my 81 F100 shortly after I got it on the road and it did tighten up the steering.
It was cheaper than the Blue Top box and why I went with it.

I had rebuilt the suspension (poly bushings) before getting it on the road but my issue is the kingpins are to tight, machine shop did the job wrong. Either I have gotten use to it or it is loosing up but it still will not retune to center in a turn.

If I knew my rotors & calipers would fit the ball joint beams I may do a swap as a buddy may have a set once he gets his truck on the road, this virus has slowed down work on his project and help I can give him.
Dave ----

Dave G.
81 F100 flare side 300 six / AA OD / NP435 / 2.75 gear
http://cars.grantskingdom1.com/index.php/1980-Ford-F100?page=1
81 F100 style side 300 six/SROD parts truck -RIP
http://cars.grantskingdom1.com/index.php/1981-Ford-F100

ClayJ

Re: The Return of Rusty

In reply to this post by Machspeed

Thanks John. However, the good times were short lived. Backing out of the driveway this morning and heard a loud pop towards the front passenger side wheel well. Lo and behold the coil spring had broken near the top! Prior to posting, I just finished pulling both front shocks and coil springs which appear fairly tired. Also, if anyone is wondering the lower coil spring nut will need a 1 1/8" socket. I've also heard a 29mm will work but the fastener is SAE. Had to make a trip to town and pick up a socket to get it removed. Since my hand has been forced I decided to order the Rough Country 2.5 inch lift kit with the leaf spring upgrade option for the rear. Good to know that Rough Country does offer a 10% military discount. All you have to do is call and ask. I was wanting to lift the truck slightly anyway to fully clear the 31" tires Rusty currently wears. With the 2.5 lift RC recommends a maximum 32x11.50 tire. So maybe that's what I'll upgrade to when i buy new rubber. Fix Or Repair Daily!!! Oh and if you look at the bottom pic you can see where the 31's have been rubbing on the radius arm.

Gary Lewis

Re: The Return of Rusty

Administrator

Bummer! You can't catch a break! Well, maybe you are catching breaks? Broken springs?

Anyway, I do remember those tires rubbing so understand the desire to fix that. And while the broken spring is a pain, it does allow you to do the lift.

By the way, I'd start soaking things with PB Blaster now. And every day until you start pulling it apart. Those bolts in the back are frequently pretty rusted.

I assume the RC kit comes with the right rear u-bolts?

Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

ClayJ

Re: The Return of Rusty

Gary,
I expected the fasteners to be pretty rough so I've already hit them with rust penetrant. Yes, the kit does come with new U bolts for the rear. Here's a picture of the kit

Do you remember what the rear suspension on Rusty looks like? Doesn't look stock to me. Seems there's an overload setup bolted to the top of the original leaf pack.

Gary Lewis

Re: The Return of Rusty

Administrator

That kit looks good.

And yes, I do remember an overload spring on there that wasn't stock.

Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

ClayJ

Re: The Return of Rusty

The operation has begun. So far not so bad but I'm also taking my time replacing worn bushings and rubber along the way. I did decide to order the steering link kit from Jeff's bronco graveyard so that's en route. Biggest pain has been installing the passenger I beam drop bracket. Man i wish i had a lift.

Gary Lewis

Re: The Return of Rusty

Administrator

Rusty would be right at home on a lift. And, by the way, my lift is the best $2K I've spent.

Anyway, take your time and do it the way you want it done. Preaching to the choir hear, but no shortcuts or you may have to go back.

Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

ClayJ

Re: The Return of Rusty

I hear ya Gary. No going back. I have ordered new ball joints and adjustable camber bushings which are on the way. However I'm thinking I really don't want to open the can of worms that could be removing the front drive shafts and I may be money ahead letting the shop do the alignment and camber bushings at the same time. On a side note I've noticed I have an engine oil pan leak on the driver side, so that'll need to be fixed under the engine install warranty.

Gary Lewis

Re: The Return of Rusty

Administrator

If I remember correctly the dipstick goes into the pan on the driver's side and they are known to leak. So certainly have the shop do it.

Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

ClayJ

Re: The Return of Rusty

So the lift install on Rusty is proceeding fairly well. I'm almost done with the front end and can then start tackling the rear. My opinion of the Rough Country lift is meh. I've had to alter both radius arm drop brackets slightly as they didn't line up perfectly with the original radius arm brackets. Seems like something pretty easy for them to mess up. I also don't understand why both driver and passenger I beam drop brackets have you drill another hole in each when they could've easily done that at the factory. We're talking about 1/2" and 9/16" holes here so be prepared. Especially if you're doing F150 yoga on the floor like I was. However I digress, I've replaced both TTB pivot bushings, both radius arm bushings, the lower coil spring isolater x 2, both front coil springs and front shocks. I'm still waiting on my new steering link kit from JBG and I can call the front done until I take it in for ball joints and camber bushings.

Gary Lewis

Re: The Return of Rusty

Administrator

Rusty is going to be so proud! Those 31's will be just right.

Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

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