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The Return of Rusty

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ClayJ

Re: The Return of Rusty

Gary, the extra C2 w/ pulley would fit the bill perfectly.

Jim, looks like CVF gives you multiple options when building your kit. Everything from different power steering pump keyways, the option to add a Saginaw pump, adding a Sanden Style AC Compressor and a 1 Wire Alternator upgrade. I've already done the alternator upgrade so would just need a different pulley to accommodate the serpentine belt.

Rusty 1981 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4 400 w/ RV cam, Edelbrock 1906 4bbl w/400 performer intake, C6 xmsn, NP 208 TC, 9" rear diff 3.50 gears, Proform HEI Distributor, Powermaster 1-wire alternator upgrade (75 Amp), Rough Country 2.5" Suspension Lift.

ArdWrknTrk

Re: The Return of Rusty

Administrator

In reply to this post by Gary Lewis

The pulley bore discrepancy is going to stymie someone without a lathe.

But 335 engines went away in '83, right?

U-techcenter is a screaming deal on all kinds of older Ford parts.
They had F-350 thru F-700 C&C as well as E-series cutaway's.

Jim,
Lil'Red is a '87 F250 HD, 4.10's, 1356 4x4, Zf-5, 3G, PMGR, Saginaw PS, desmogged with a Holley 80508 and Performer intake.
Too much other stuff to mention.

Gary Lewis

Re: The Return of Rusty

Administrator

In reply to this post by ClayJ

Clay - Email me your address unless I already have it. I'll try to get it out tomorrow.

Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
Blue: 2015 F150 Platinum 4x4 SuperCrew wearing Blue Jeans & sporting a 3.5L EB & Max Tow
Big Blue: 1985 F250HD 4x4: 460/ZF5/3.55's, D60 w/Ox locker & 10.25 Sterling/Trutrac, Blue Top & Borgeson, & EEC-V MAF/SEFI

ArdWrknTrk

Re: The Return of Rusty

Administrator

In reply to this post by ClayJ

Yeah.... Now.

But five years ago they didn't have much selection, and I ended up with an L&L alternator bracket.

Jim,
Lil'Red is a '87 F250 HD, 4.10's, 1356 4x4, Zf-5, 3G, PMGR, Saginaw PS, desmogged with a Holley 80508 and Performer intake.
Too much other stuff to mention.

ClayJ

Re: The Return of Rusty

Gotcha, 2020....what a time to be alive right??

ArdWrknTrk

Re: The Return of Rusty

Administrator

Don't push,,, 😉

Jim,
Lil'Red is a '87 F250 HD, 4.10's, 1356 4x4, Zf-5, 3G, PMGR, Saginaw PS, desmogged with a Holley 80508 and Performer intake.
Too much other stuff to mention.

ClayJ

Re: The Return of Rusty

Of course I kid. After getting my behind kicked earlier by that pulley and the garbage Chinese puller kit, I needed a laugh.

ArdWrknTrk

Re: The Return of Rusty

Administrator

And you deserve a laugh.

Tools that fail are infuriating!

Jim,
Lil'Red is a '87 F250 HD, 4.10's, 1356 4x4, Zf-5, 3G, PMGR, Saginaw PS, desmogged with a Holley 80508 and Performer intake.
Too much other stuff to mention.

ClayJ

Re: The Return of Rusty

In reply to this post by Gary Lewis

The pulley came in late Saturday and I wasn't able to get to installing it until this morning. Needless to say it and the pulley installer I loaned from O'reillys worked like a charm. Had the pulley installed and ready to go in five minutes. Amazing what the right/quality tools will do. Gary, thanks again for shipping everything over. Rusty is back up and on the road. He made the 12 mile trip into Glen Rose and back to return the installer kit and some used oil I had no problem. I also replaced the pressure hose and cleaned the return line and wrapped them in spiral wrap to protect from chafing since there are some close tolerances down there.

Gary Lewis

Re: The Return of Rusty

Administrator

Excellent!

Yes, good tools make ALL the difference. Glad it all worked out well.

Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

ClayJ

Re: The Return of Rusty

Man Rusty can't catch a break and neither can I. Now I have a leaking steering gear. Drove Rusty approx. 45 miles yesterday running back and forth to town and when I pulled back into the garage I could see fluid on the ground. Sure enough the lower seal on the steering gear is leaking. Any past lessons learned for changing out the assembly? I'm thinking the biggest hassle will be removing the pitman arm and the intermediate steering shaft from up top. Would an alignment be required after? As far as parts and availability it looks like there are multiple choices. Looks like Amazon has a Cardone unit P/N: 27-7516 (Prime) available for $165.44 and a post purchase rebate of $70 making the post rebate price $95.44 plus tax. Best price I've seen so far as well as no core charge.

Amazon Cardone Steering Gear 27-7516

Gary Lewis

Re: The Return of Rusty

Administrator

Clay - That's a bummer!

On the steering gear, there are two levels. In my opinion you can get a bit less than new, and better than new. Here's my thinking.

The factory used the cast iron box for the bottom bearing, and all boxes are now worn. The rebuilders check how worn and use boxes that are in tolerance, meaning the bearing clearance is more than new but still acceptable. And what you get is in the luck of the draw.

But two outfits, Red Head and Bluetop, bore the box out and put in a real bearing. So they are better than new. But they are more expensive.

I've used a Cardone unit and it was far better than the one it replaced. However, since then I've bought Red Head.

Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

ArdWrknTrk

Re: The Return of Rusty

Administrator

In reply to this post by ClayJ

Do you know that the output shaft is sloppy?
If it's tight and only the seal is bad you can change it in the truck.

My only other advice is to be sure to check for cracks starting between the two rear bolts, and make sure the new one is properly torqued to avoid that problem in the future.

Jim,
Lil'Red is a '87 F250 HD, 4.10's, 1356 4x4, Zf-5, 3G, PMGR, Saginaw PS, desmogged with a Holley 80508 and Performer intake.
Too much other stuff to mention.

ClayJ

Re: The Return of Rusty

Jim, Everything seems fairly tight so I'm taking your advice to try the seal replacement first. I located a Gates seal replacement kit for the pitman shaft seal so hopefully that will do the trick.

Gary, remember all the funk and crud you scraped off Rusty's rear axle? The pitman arm and under side of the steering gear are coated with it. Not sure what this stuff is but boy is it stout.

ClayJ

Re: The Return of Rusty

In reply to this post by Gary Lewis

If the seal replacement doesn't work I'll probably go with a blue top unit. Both they and red head seem to have quality products but the blue top is slightly cheaper and matches the Ford blue valve covers and hei distributor that are on the engine.

Gary Lewis

Re: The Return of Rusty

Administrator

In reply to this post by ClayJ

I remember that crud! At one time the guys were calling the truck Crusty. And yes, it was hard and ON THERE!

Good luck on the seal. But your plans to go with Blue Top if that doesn't work would be what I'd do as well. Redhead has had some reported quality and customer service issues if you believe what you read on the internet. But Blue Top doesn't seem to have suffered that fate - yet.

Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

ClayJ

Re: The Return of Rusty

In reply to this post by ClayJ

Gary- I think I found an onion patch underneath all the crud on Rusty's steering components. So the initial plan was to remove the pitman arm and remove and replace the pitman arm shaft seal. Let's just say I didn't make it that far. There is dirt in the crevices of crevices. No wonder this truck was almost named CRusty. I also noticed that all the rubber dust boots are in very poor shape and most are cracked and have lost all their grease. So with it being a new year why not start a new project!! Here's what I'm thinking.

I've already removed the Moog Steering Stabilizer I installed last year and removed the steering gear.

o Order a Blue-Top 2757 Gear (Currently shows out of stock)
o Order the Steering Rod Kit (Bronco Graveyard)
o Order Borgeson Steering Shaft (Bronco Graveyard)

o Order the JBG 1.5-2" Front Leveling Springs- However, there is an interesting note I'd like some help with. The note says: Any 1980-96 Ford Bronco/F150 to be lifted 1.5-2" will have potential alignment problems unless the factory shims are at or near zero degrees. Verify what's on your truck prior to purchasing a suspension lift kit. Otherwise, a minimum of 4" of suspension lift will be required in order to achieve correct alignment.

How can I tell if Rusty is at or near zero degrees? I'd prefer to do the 1.5-2" lift vs 4" as Rusty is already running 31 inch Coopers for the time being.

o Install ordered parts
o Alignment

Gary Lewis

Re: The Return of Rusty

Administrator

Man, you are going to have a huge Bloomin' Onion when this is over!

I like your plans. But does the "steering rod kit" replace the tie rods?

On the springs, you are out of my league. But some of the others will surely know. As for the zero degree question, the only way I know is to take it to an alignment shop.

Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

ClayJ

Re: The Return of Rusty

Gary- It does indeed,
Includes: Drag Link, Tie Rods, Connecting Sleeves.

Hopefully someone can chime in on the alignment bushings. I'd hate to order the springs and not be able to use them. I certainly think the 1.5 to 2" lift will help as those 31's contact the radius arms at full tilt. Also, no real need to upgrade to 33's as the 31's handle just fine for what I do with Rusty.

salans7

Re: The Return of Rusty

When you put the taller springs into the truck, it will more than likely throw off the alignment (mainly camber, could affect others too though). That's why they suggest what I believe is adjustable eccentrics (bushings). Zero degrees would allow you some adjustment; any bushings tailored to a certain degree of alignment would not give you much adjustment.

However, if your front springs are completely sagged out, the 1.5-2" leveling springs may make up for that and you may not need the adjustable bushings. You wouldn't know until the springs were installed and you took it in for the alignment.

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