T2K-CAR
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Got the rest of the Saginaw pump system mounted, filled and bled (easier with the wheels off the ground), fabricated a temporary support for the exhaust pipe (it is in a ball type joint with spring clamps so the engine can move under torque load) so it won't fall all the way down and either drag or snag when moving the car. After that I set it down, cleaned off the flange where the hood seal/wiring cover goes and reinstalled it. Put the windshield washer tank in and connected the harness to it.
I started working on making sure I have an emergency hood release as the original location for it is not accessible with the pusher fan system. ZF pump.  Saginaw pump.  The Saginaw sits higher on the engine and further to the rear, ZF plastic tank actually is higher in the car than the Saginaw. Hood seal and washer tank.  Hood seal from the front. 
Bill AKA "LOBO" Profile
"Getting old is inevitable, growing up is optional" Darth Vader 1986 F350 460 converted to MAF/SEFI, E4OD 12X3 1/2 rear brakes, traction loc 3:55 gear, 160 amp 3G alternator Wife's 2011 Flex Limited Daily Driver 2009 Flex Limited with factory tow package Project car 1986 Chrysler LeBaron convertible 2.2L Turbo II, modified A413 |
Re: T2K-CAR
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Lots of progress there, Bill.
 Is that Sag one of the common ones? It looks it, but it is hard to tell. Anyway, if so it'll be easier to find down the road than the ZF, so there's some comfort there.
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile
Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
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The bracket is common to all 2.2/2.5L engines in cars with power steering and a Saginaw pump, lines are somewhat vehicle specific due to length and routing, also the year makes a slight difference, somewhere between 1986 and 1989, the rack mounting bolts were changed from 8 mm to 10 mm as the 8 mm ones were prone to coming loose or breaking, and even pulling out of the nut plates welded inside the K member. The 10 mm nut plates are probably 13 mm long and the bolts are also longer.
My lines had the holes for the 8 mm bolts, I just enlarged them for the 10 mm bolts the 1989 K member has in it. Did finally find my hood cable and a week ago I had a neighbor come over an we installed the hood (bonnet for those from the continent) and yesterday I got it adjusted. It is only on the safety catch as without a dashboard to mount the release handle on it is a royal pain to open. 
Bill AKA "LOBO" Profile
"Getting old is inevitable, growing up is optional" Darth Vader 1986 F350 460 converted to MAF/SEFI, E4OD 12X3 1/2 rear brakes, traction loc 3:55 gear, 160 amp 3G alternator Wife's 2011 Flex Limited Daily Driver 2009 Flex Limited with factory tow package Project car 1986 Chrysler LeBaron convertible 2.2L Turbo II, modified A413 |
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Let's hope the shielding on the RCA cables is good.
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile
Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
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Got the top hold down brackets on today, went to Ace and bought 4 #10-32 X 3/4 oval head Phillips CRES screws and # 8 oval head Phillips CRES sheet metal screws.
 
Bill AKA "LOBO" Profile
"Getting old is inevitable, growing up is optional" Darth Vader 1986 F350 460 converted to MAF/SEFI, E4OD 12X3 1/2 rear brakes, traction loc 3:55 gear, 160 amp 3G alternator Wife's 2011 Flex Limited Daily Driver 2009 Flex Limited with factory tow package Project car 1986 Chrysler LeBaron convertible 2.2L Turbo II, modified A413 |
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I'm using a small dab of grease where I torque down powder against powder or paint, and it seems to help. I'd like to use grease on the powder-coated threads, but if I do have to re-paint that makes it more difficult.
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile
Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
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Re: T2K-CAR
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Got the dash in yesterday and today I started dying it to the maroon or burgundy color to match the rest of the interior. This only the top portion, the lower sections I am doing separately since they have to be installed after the upper and steering column are in.
You can see the amplifier location (ribbed black box) where it will be under the passenger seat. 
Bill AKA "LOBO" Profile
"Getting old is inevitable, growing up is optional" Darth Vader 1986 F350 460 converted to MAF/SEFI, E4OD 12X3 1/2 rear brakes, traction loc 3:55 gear, 160 amp 3G alternator Wife's 2011 Flex Limited Daily Driver 2009 Flex Limited with factory tow package Project car 1986 Chrysler LeBaron convertible 2.2L Turbo II, modified A413 |
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What are you using to dye them? And, will you also be doing other parts in the interior with the same dye?
Anyway, looks good.
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile
Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
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Haven't updated this in a while, but major milestone today, windshield is installed, I had it shipped to a local company and since he had a job just up the road, he was able to do it for their minimum charge of 1 hr labor, $95. I had all the old glass out, trim off and everything pretty well cleaned.
From the front:  From inside:  Top left corner, they use a polyurethane adhesive: 
Bill AKA "LOBO" Profile
"Getting old is inevitable, growing up is optional" Darth Vader 1986 F350 460 converted to MAF/SEFI, E4OD 12X3 1/2 rear brakes, traction loc 3:55 gear, 160 amp 3G alternator Wife's 2011 Flex Limited Daily Driver 2009 Flex Limited with factory tow package Project car 1986 Chrysler LeBaron convertible 2.2L Turbo II, modified A413 |