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I finally decided to rough cut the 2.5L crank gear down to see what diameter I could get down to and still keep the strength at the keyway. I did this with an abrasive cutoff disc on my pneumatic angle grinder. I just cut the solid areas between the oval openings on the back side and then doing the same at the ovals. I cut in on the OD at the outer end of the teeth for the belt. I ended up with a 36.25 mm "snout"
  I will have to (a) cut the snout so I have the proper distance to the end of the hole on the old gear and (b) open up the bore in the 2.4L gear so the 36.25 mm snout can be pressed into it. The other issue is the outer face of the old gear is where the crank pulley attaches and has to remain out from the block face in order to line up with the accessories, in particular the water pump and alternator. On this, I may end up cutting the flange off of the 2.4L gear and using the back side of the adapter (made from the 2.5L gear) as the flange for the belt. The final piece of this puzzle will be the intermediate shaft gear, the original 2.5L gear is wide enough for the 28 mm belt width, but the position it needs to be in places the hub so far out it doesn't engage the key. I think I have an extra one of these, but if not I do have two extra older square tooth gears I can use. Plan is to face the short side of the hub off to the disc portion of the gear, then take another gear and cut the hub out leaving enough of the disc so that with it's short side removed it, with a portion of it's disc, can be turned into a hub putting the gear in alignment with the cam and crank gears by attaching it with short screws and nuts. I will most likely remove the protruding hub inside the front of the gear so I have enough length on the securing bolt. The actual belt, careful measuring using the NAPA belt that came with the original head, gave me the following tooth counts: Tensioner all the way extended, 150 teeth, tensioner all the way retracted, 155 teeth. In perusing my comprehensive list of Dayco timing belts by length, I found a 152 tooth belt, 28 mm wide, T number T270. This fits a 1995-1997 Volvo V6 so is not difficult to find and one is on it's way.
Bill AKA "LOBO" Profile
"Getting old is inevitable, growing up is optional" Darth Vader 1986 F350 460 converted to MAF/SEFI, E4OD 12X3 1/2 rear brakes, traction loc 3:55 gear, 160 amp 3G alternator Wife's 2011 Flex Limited Daily Driver 2009 Flex Limited with factory tow package Project car 1986 Chrysler LeBaron convertible 2.2L Turbo II, modified A413 |
Re: T2K-CAR
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Bill - I’ve got it, I’ve got it, I ain’t got it. Somewhere about where the crank pulley attaches I get lost.
But at least I followed until there, and I do understand that you found the right belt. So that sounds good. 
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile
Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
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Ok, that I can get my head around.
But I am still getting lost on terminology. I thought a polygroove belt is the same as a serp belt but in a serpentine system there is only one belt. In a polygroove system there is two or more. So how can you have a polygroove belt and a serpentine belt in the same system? I’m obviously missing something. 
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile
Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
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Let me try to explain what the difference is (a) polygroove is a description of the belt design, they are better suited for tight turns than a V belt (b) serpentine is a description of the belt routing, ie, like a serpent's path.
Most true serpentine belts systems use flat polygroove belts for there flexibility, greater grip and ability to drive from either side. I will give some examples: 1994 Taurus 3.8L V6. Crank turns clockwise along with everything except the water pump.  1995 Lincoln Continental 4.6L DOHC V8 sideways as it is a Taurus based chassis. Everything turns clockwise.  2003 E series with V8 or V10 everything except the water pump turns clockwise.  Hope these help in understanding. FWIW, I have two 48" mower decks, one a 1991 Ford (deck is actually a 1989) and a 2001 New Holland where the deck V belt follows a serpentine path. Note that the tensioner is normally the last item before the drive pulley.
Bill AKA "LOBO" Profile
"Getting old is inevitable, growing up is optional" Darth Vader 1986 F350 460 converted to MAF/SEFI, E4OD 12X3 1/2 rear brakes, traction loc 3:55 gear, 160 amp 3G alternator Wife's 2011 Flex Limited Daily Driver 2009 Flex Limited with factory tow package Project car 1986 Chrysler LeBaron convertible 2.2L Turbo II, modified A413 |
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Gary, quit overthinking and look at the rotation directions, On the Taurus, V8 & V10 mod motors other than the Lincoln Continental, the water pump rotates backwards from the crank. This involves using the back (flat) side of the belt to achieve it. On the Continental and the 7.5L (460) all drive/driven pulleys turn the same direction, clockwise and are driven by the ribbed side of the belt.
I have always referred to a single drive belt running multiple accessories as a serpentine and flat ribbed belt as a polygroove especially if it is only running one or two accessories.  Arrows note direction of belt travel.
Bill AKA "LOBO" Profile
"Getting old is inevitable, growing up is optional" Darth Vader 1986 F350 460 converted to MAF/SEFI, E4OD 12X3 1/2 rear brakes, traction loc 3:55 gear, 160 amp 3G alternator Wife's 2011 Flex Limited Daily Driver 2009 Flex Limited with factory tow package Project car 1986 Chrysler LeBaron convertible 2.2L Turbo II, modified A413 |
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If I’d never been accused of overthinking then I might be offended, but I have and I am so I won’t.
 But to be clear, in your way of thinking a serpentine system uses a polygroove belt to drive things with both sides of the belt. And a system that uses a polygroove belt to drive things off just the ribbed side of the belt is a polygroove system. Right?
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile
Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
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That is how I differentiate the two, I may not be totally correct. It is more a way of understanding what I am working on than a "politically correct" name.
I currently have a 1993 GMC 3500 HD 6.5L turbodiesel sitting here I need to figure out what it needs and get the needed parts ordered for it. It belongs to a wrecker company in Hampton, he brought it over on his low deck roll back.    It has the Roosamaster injection pump and it is leaking probably from the input shaft seals. Since it has been sitting for 10 years (basically since I moved from Newport News) I haven't gotten it started yet and Being nearly 30 years old, I suspect the turbo may need replacing also.
Bill AKA "LOBO" Profile
"Getting old is inevitable, growing up is optional" Darth Vader 1986 F350 460 converted to MAF/SEFI, E4OD 12X3 1/2 rear brakes, traction loc 3:55 gear, 160 amp 3G alternator Wife's 2011 Flex Limited Daily Driver 2009 Flex Limited with factory tow package Project car 1986 Chrysler LeBaron convertible 2.2L Turbo II, modified A413 |
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Nice to see you with a GMC Bill!
Dane
1986 F250HD SC XLT Lariat 4x4 460 C6-Sold 1992 Bronco XLT 4x4 351W E4OD 1998 GMC Sierra SLE K1500 350 4L60E Arizona |
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Back to our regularly scheduled program. I did some more work on the timing belt system for the hybrid 2.5L. First I found a belt the correct length and width, and surprisingly is actually for a 2.4L DOHC Chrysler engine, it is a Gates T246, 150 teeth and 29mm width.
 Here are the cams timed (no valve gear at present).  Crank gear, not completely finished, bolts were for turning things through at least two crank revolutions.  Automatic tensioner after turning through two crank revolutions.  Here is one of the stumbling blocks, this is the intermediate shaft gear from the back. I either had to adapt an extra cam gear (if I wanted to maintain the correct ratio) or modify a 1989 gear to be in the correct plane as the others. Since I will be running an intake cam driven distributor, or possibly a DIS system, correct ratio wasn't needed, I used a 40 tooth 1989 gear rather than trying to make a 42 tooth cam gear fit. One of the concerns was the clearance between the belt where it leaves that gear and the front seal housing casting.  I cut a square tooth (pre-1989) gear down to make a 10mm thick spacer so I didn't have to figure out a way to make keyway in it. This puts the intermediate shaft gear in plane with the cam gears and retains the key on the shaft so it can't slip (it drives the oil pump gear).
Bill AKA "LOBO" Profile
"Getting old is inevitable, growing up is optional" Darth Vader 1986 F350 460 converted to MAF/SEFI, E4OD 12X3 1/2 rear brakes, traction loc 3:55 gear, 160 amp 3G alternator Wife's 2011 Flex Limited Daily Driver 2009 Flex Limited with factory tow package Project car 1986 Chrysler LeBaron convertible 2.2L Turbo II, modified A413 |
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That's a good idea, Bill! Good thinking.
And the tensioner looks about right. Right? So, what's next?
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile
Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
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In reply to this post by 85lebaront2
Progress!!!
Jim,
Lil'Red is a '87 F250 HD, 4.10's, 1356 4x4, Zf-5, 3G, PMGR, Saginaw PS, desmogged with a Holley 80508 and Performer intake. Too much other stuff to mention. |
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