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Re: T2K-CAR
 
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Yes, I need to focus. No, Focus! Ok, I got it, I got it, ....
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile
Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
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In reply to this post by Machspeed
I have dealt with FWD performance before. I have never actually met Cindy but when Karen, my first wife, passed away Dec 30 2005, I mentioned it in a thread either on Turbododge.com or Turbo-Mopar.com. She sent me a very nice sympathy note in an email to me.
The rods I ordered from her through FB messenger arrived yesterday bushed for the 0.927" Venolia pin, ARP bolts installed and ready to go into the short block. Meanwhile, I did a trial fit using the Stratus head to test a theory. One on the major issues in these hybrids as they are called, is oil flow and the returns to the sump. On the original 8 valve head, the ports are all on the back side (what would be the right side in a RWD vehicle) like a 300. Since these engines are OHC there are no push rod holes, but on the front side there are 3 large and one small oil returns, supply is the left front head bolt hole. The 2.4L DOHC head has it's oil returns as 1 strange one in the front (intake) side and 3 directly behind the 3 center rear headbolts, supply is left rear head bolt hole (more on that later). With the head placed on the block, the 3 rear oil returns are outside the rear of the block, just barely, inner edge is at or just in from the surface of the block as seen here:  My thoughts (I wish I had a Bridgeport) is to use my angle grinder to smooth the small bulges on the back side of the block at the head bolt locations and make a drain channel from square steel tubing. Using small bolts and some good high temperature and strength epoxy, attach it to the block, flush with the deck and then run a drain line into the crankcase. This will make the oil return a permanent metal part and do away with the snake nest of hoses that most of these conversions have for oil returns. Oil supply, plan is to drill an angled hole from the upper portion of the left front head bolt location in the block (which is one of the DOHC dowel pin locations) to the existing oil passage for the SOHC head and plug the top of that passage as it is outside the head gasket area. In the head, there is a cross passage from the left rear head bolt hole almost all the way to the left front head bolt hole. This feeds all the head supply to the lash adjusters and cam bearings. I will remove the plug on the back side of the head and extend that passage to the left front head bolt hole thus providing a route for the oil supply from the block. The existing front of the block oil drains will be plugged and the center one will probably be where I will connect the PCV valve so it will be pulling air from the crankcase and creating a down flow in the oil returns. The distributor on these is on the front of the block centered between # 2 & 3 cylinders. This puts it barely clearing the bottom front of the head and under the intake manifold. This is not a fun place to get to. There is a company that sells a distributor relocation kit the puts it on the end of the intake cam, like a number on Japanese engines. he also sells a set of terminals as the original Chrysler system uses a flat tab on the plug wires that becomes the internal portion of the cap (and you thought GM was cheap). His terminals snap into the cap like the OEM wires, but have posts instead of wires so any nice 8mm wire kit can be used. The distributor relocation requires some distributor changes as it reverses the rotation. The shutter vanes have to be relocated so the leading edge of the vanes coincide with the rotor being at one of the 4 towers. There is one vane with a hole in it that is unique to the turbocharged engines and they also use two Hall Effect Pickups, a reference and a sync, the latter is on the turbo models as they were the only multipoint EFI systems at that time. These have to be rewired in the harness as the trigger sequence is what times the injectors. The system has to see the window's double pulse first in the reference signal and then in the sync signal and since the HEPS are not 180° apart, close but not exact, the pulse timing tell the computer where #1 is from that. Similar to the narrow vane in the Ford TFI distributors being the #1 cylinder ID.
Bill AKA "LOBO" Profile
"Getting old is inevitable, growing up is optional" Darth Vader 1986 F350 460 converted to MAF/SEFI, E4OD 12X3 1/2 rear brakes, traction loc 3:55 gear, 160 amp 3G alternator Wife's 2011 Flex Limited Daily Driver 2009 Flex Limited with factory tow package Project car 1986 Chrysler LeBaron convertible 2.2L Turbo II, modified A413 |
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Ok, here are some pictures. First the approximate angle the engine sits at installed.
 Second, back side of the engine, I didn't have a bare one so the integrated turbo exhaust was on the head.  Hopefully the diagram will explain it. On the distributor, there is an adapter housing that bolts where the cam position sensor would go. The changes are first, the vane with the hole is the master and the reference HEP is what is used for ignition timing and will be on a TBI system or turbo. The SYNC HEP is the one used to synchronize the injectors to the valve timing and as such is roughly 180° opposite the reference HEP so that the injector pulse occurs on the intake stroke. The labels on the HEPs are as they are originally configured for counterclockwise as they are on the bottom side of the plastic housing. Assume the rotor is in line with the #1 cap tower, the Reference HEP has a solid vane just entering it, the SYNC HEP has the window in the vane just about to enter it as the first portion of the vane has passed through. When the direction of rotation is reversed, the vane position has toe be changed so that when the rotor is lined up with #1 tower, the above scenario but in a clockwise direction since the angular travel from Reference to SYNC is not 180° the functions of the two HEPS have to be swapped and the Reference HEP has to be placed between the rotor positions for Cyl #4 and Cyl #2. As built, the distributor has a straight portion that is used to attach a splash shield and the cap has a vent on that side. Looking down at the distributor #1 tower is at 10:30, #3 at 1:30, #4 at 4:30 and #2 at 7:30. When reconfigured, with the HEPs connected reversed but mounted normally, #1 is now at 4:30, #3 at 1:30, #4 at 10:30 and #2 at 7:30. With the HEP board rotated 180°, #1 is now back at 10:30, but #3 is now at 7:30, #4 is at 4:30 again, and #2 is at 1:30.  
Bill AKA "LOBO" Profile
"Getting old is inevitable, growing up is optional" Darth Vader 1986 F350 460 converted to MAF/SEFI, E4OD 12X3 1/2 rear brakes, traction loc 3:55 gear, 160 amp 3G alternator Wife's 2011 Flex Limited Daily Driver 2009 Flex Limited with factory tow package Project car 1986 Chrysler LeBaron convertible 2.2L Turbo II, modified A413 |
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On second thought, or as my 2nd cup of Joe kicks in, there isn't enough meat in the 2.4L sprocket to bore it far enough to take all of the keyway out. And I doubt the 2.5L sprocket would survive if turned down to fit inside. In fact, I don't see how to hold the 2.5L sprocket to turn it down that far as it would spring open and come off the mandrel. So ditch that plan.
I'm thinking now that it might work to make a shim that would press fit into the 2.4L sprocket and be held in with Locktite Red. Then put the sprocket in the mill and take out the portion of the shim that is at the keyway. That leaves you with a keyway that is 3.98mm/.157" wide when the keyway on the crank is 4.07mm/.160" wide. It would then be needle-file time. And, the keyway will be too deep and will have to either be filled with epoxy or a special key used. But it also means your keyway is wherever it is on the 2.4L sprocket. Can you live with that? 
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile
Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
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