T2K-CAR

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Re: T2K-CAR

85lebaront2
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Thanks!
Bill AKA "LOBO" Profile

"Getting old is inevitable, growing up is optional" Darth Vader 1986 F350 460 converted to MAF/SEFI, E4OD 12X3 1/2 rear brakes, traction loc 3:55 gear, 160 amp 3G alternator Wife's 2011 Flex Limited Daily Driver 2009 Flex Limited with factory tow package Project car 1986 Chrysler LeBaron convertible 2.2L Turbo II, modified A413

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Re: T2K-CAR

85lebaront2
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I set the crank at TDC 1-4 and then with the crank gear lined up with the crank key I used the arrow that the 2.4L has in line with one of the ribs on the gear to create a reference notch on the front cover. When the gear modifications are finished I will add a notch to the spacer behind the gear so it will be easy to line up.
Bill AKA "LOBO" Profile

"Getting old is inevitable, growing up is optional" Darth Vader 1986 F350 460 converted to MAF/SEFI, E4OD 12X3 1/2 rear brakes, traction loc 3:55 gear, 160 amp 3G alternator Wife's 2011 Flex Limited Daily Driver 2009 Flex Limited with factory tow package Project car 1986 Chrysler LeBaron convertible 2.2L Turbo II, modified A413

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Re: T2K-CAR

Gary Lewis
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That looks like you will be able to set it up perfectly, Bill.  
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
Blue: 2015 F150 Platinum 4x4 SuperCrew wearing Blue Jeans & sporting a 3.5L EB & Max Tow
Big Blue: 1985 F250HD 4x4: 460/ZF5/3.55's, D60 w/Ox locker & 10.25 Sterling/Trutrac, Blue Top & Borgeson, & EEC-V MAF/SEFI

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Re: T2K-CAR

85lebaront2
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I scored something on eBay recently. I had one of these on T2K-CAR MK I, but in the nearly 14 years since it was totaled some things (remotes) vanished. The company who made these (DesignTech) was located in Springfield VA, but like many good reasonably priced items, were purchased by another similar company (Directed Electronics), who made lesser quality but higher priced systems.

It came as no real surprise that they first raised prices, then stopped manufacturing the DesignTech items so replacement remotes are NLA. I went on eBay searching for remotes, but found a complete kit still in it's original package (date says copyright 2004) and immediately bought it.

Bill AKA "LOBO" Profile

"Getting old is inevitable, growing up is optional" Darth Vader 1986 F350 460 converted to MAF/SEFI, E4OD 12X3 1/2 rear brakes, traction loc 3:55 gear, 160 amp 3G alternator Wife's 2011 Flex Limited Daily Driver 2009 Flex Limited with factory tow package Project car 1986 Chrysler LeBaron convertible 2.2L Turbo II, modified A413

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Re: T2K-CAR

grumpin
That’s a score! Interesting device.
Dane
1986 F250HD SC XLT Lariat 4x4 460 C6-Sold
1992 Bronco XLT 4x4 351W E4OD
1998 GMC Sierra SLE K1500 350 4L60E
Arizona
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Re: T2K-CAR

Gary Lewis
Administrator
Nice!  Good find, Bill!  
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
Blue: 2015 F150 Platinum 4x4 SuperCrew wearing Blue Jeans & sporting a 3.5L EB & Max Tow
Big Blue: 1985 F250HD 4x4: 460/ZF5/3.55's, D60 w/Ox locker & 10.25 Sterling/Trutrac, Blue Top & Borgeson, & EEC-V MAF/SEFI

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Re: T2K-CAR

85lebaront2
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Yes it is, I had one on the original and on one of our minivans.

Finally had some halfway decent weather today and was able to do some work on the 2.5L hybrid head. I started with the hole for the oil feed from the left rear head bolt to the #6 intake cam bearing cap transfer slot. I had previously drilled the passage through to the left front head bolt hole so it could be fed from the 2.5L oil passage. I drilled it out so I could get a 1/8 NPT tap into the passage in order to plug it and prevent oil from pressurizing the area the 2.4L feed is in. I tapped the cross passage for 1/8 NPT and installed a hex socket plug. I then enlarged the outside hole to 3/8 NPT and tapped it so the area will be closed off.


Next I made a template for the Tempo water pump and Chrysler 2.5L water entrance hole and drew up the layout on a piece of 1/2" 6061 aluminum. Plan is to use the 3 M8 X 1.25 block holes and one of the M10 X 1.5 holes for the Alternator/AC compressor mount to attach a plate to the block, then use the 3 M8 X 1.25 fasteners the Tempo water pump has to mount it to the plate. Based on the measurements I made today, it looks like if I use either reduced head size or socket head M8 X 1.25 screws into the 2.5L block they will not interfere with the Tempo water pump flange and 3rd bolt.

Bill AKA "LOBO" Profile

"Getting old is inevitable, growing up is optional" Darth Vader 1986 F350 460 converted to MAF/SEFI, E4OD 12X3 1/2 rear brakes, traction loc 3:55 gear, 160 amp 3G alternator Wife's 2011 Flex Limited Daily Driver 2009 Flex Limited with factory tow package Project car 1986 Chrysler LeBaron convertible 2.2L Turbo II, modified A413

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Re: T2K-CAR

Gary Lewis
Administrator
That's looking good, Bill.  1/2" provides plenty of meat.

And the oil passages should work out nicely.  But what will you use to seal the threads?  Is that a steel fitting in an aluminum head?
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
Blue: 2015 F150 Platinum 4x4 SuperCrew wearing Blue Jeans & sporting a 3.5L EB & Max Tow
Big Blue: 1985 F250HD 4x4: 460/ZF5/3.55's, D60 w/Ox locker & 10.25 Sterling/Trutrac, Blue Top & Borgeson, & EEC-V MAF/SEFI

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Re: T2K-CAR

85lebaront2
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Yes it is, and is what Chrysler used. I have some nice hydraulic sealer that I bought when working on Mary's Cousin's G30 van.
Bill AKA "LOBO" Profile

"Getting old is inevitable, growing up is optional" Darth Vader 1986 F350 460 converted to MAF/SEFI, E4OD 12X3 1/2 rear brakes, traction loc 3:55 gear, 160 amp 3G alternator Wife's 2011 Flex Limited Daily Driver 2009 Flex Limited with factory tow package Project car 1986 Chrysler LeBaron convertible 2.2L Turbo II, modified A413

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Re: T2K-CAR

Gary Lewis
Administrator
Should work.  I like Loctite 56747 PST High Temperature Thread Sealant for Stainless Steel Fittings.  Jim put me onto that and I use it on lots and lots of things.  Seals nicely on hydraulic fittings, sets up enough to prevent bolts from backing out, and prevents galling.  But, it is pricey.
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
Blue: 2015 F150 Platinum 4x4 SuperCrew wearing Blue Jeans & sporting a 3.5L EB & Max Tow
Big Blue: 1985 F250HD 4x4: 460/ZF5/3.55's, D60 w/Ox locker & 10.25 Sterling/Trutrac, Blue Top & Borgeson, & EEC-V MAF/SEFI

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Re: T2K-CAR

mat in tn
In reply to this post by 85lebaront2
hopefully I'm not going to interrupt too much but I had a question not related to ford trucks and not specifically your car.  I thought of you when this car came in., we have an 89 "tc" in the shop. today I went in, and the young guy is scratching his head. looking all over for the knock sensor. he had just been on the phone with a Chrysler dealer who asked if it even had one.  anyway, I get into it with him and went over the customers complaint. falling flat above 2500. when pushed it seems to just slow down further. I asked what the fuel pressure tested at vs what it should be. he said that test showed 60 yet it was just a measurement and not sure what it should be. but he says you can rev it out fine in neutral. I explained that turbo differential against fuel pressure changes things and it is probably a failing fuel pump. wondering about a knock sensor though. i found nothing resembling one nor any wiring headed to or from where I suspect one should be. funny thing is that he kept correcting me when i called it a lebaron.
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Re: T2K-CAR

85lebaront2
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This post was updated on .
Ok, the 1989 TC by Maserati is what I assume you are dealing with. He is correct, it is not a Lebaron, it is based on the G body (Dodge Daytona), engine is unique to these, it is a 2.2L common block with a Maserati DOHC cylinder head.

I do have the information, including wiring diagrams, but there are two engine codes, VIN P or VIN R.

According to the VIN R information, knock sensor has an 18 ga BK/RD shielded cable and is on the rear of valve cover, top of engine.

Fuel pressure is 53-57 psi, vacuum connected at idle (I am not sure this is correct on the test conditions, my procedure from my factory service manual is that pressure with no vacuum). There is a way to "hotwire" the Automatic Shutdown Relay which powers the coil, fuel pump and injectors and I can tell you how to do it if needed. These systems run some really high fuel pressures, mine currently (when it's on the road) with 15 psi boost and 55 psi static pressure will hit 70 psi under boost. If the pump is bad (it is 34 years old) do not get a cheap replacement, I believe the originals were Walbro. Fuel filters are generally located near the right side rear suspension attachment.

If you need more, shoot me an email and I can save it to pdfs and send it to you.
Bill AKA "LOBO" Profile

"Getting old is inevitable, growing up is optional" Darth Vader 1986 F350 460 converted to MAF/SEFI, E4OD 12X3 1/2 rear brakes, traction loc 3:55 gear, 160 amp 3G alternator Wife's 2011 Flex Limited Daily Driver 2009 Flex Limited with factory tow package Project car 1986 Chrysler LeBaron convertible 2.2L Turbo II, modified A413

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Re: T2K-CAR

mat in tn
this is exactly why I thought of you when this came in. thanks for the reply. yes, we are dealing with the Maserati. one of the things that I noticed was that the fuel tank was weeping. possibly just the sender or pump gasket but surface rust is very evident and often a sign of greater inside corrosion. I said that the tank, pump and sender need to be on the quote first thing. fix what you find first especially if it's related to the complaint. yes, the individual may choose to fix a little piece at a time but when billing hours and having to possibly do things twice or more and holding up a lift in the process, you quote the best option.
dealing with mostly fords I don't claim any expertise in the realm of Maserati/Chryslers. i may reach out if this continues. customers call at this point.
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Re: T2K-CAR

85lebaront2
Administrator
No problem, I do have a lot of Chrysler information. Gas tank is probably same as a Dodge Daytona, but many of those tanks are the same, just be sure that the sump for the EFI pump is there.
Bill AKA "LOBO" Profile

"Getting old is inevitable, growing up is optional" Darth Vader 1986 F350 460 converted to MAF/SEFI, E4OD 12X3 1/2 rear brakes, traction loc 3:55 gear, 160 amp 3G alternator Wife's 2011 Flex Limited Daily Driver 2009 Flex Limited with factory tow package Project car 1986 Chrysler LeBaron convertible 2.2L Turbo II, modified A413

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Re: T2K-CAR

85lebaront2
Administrator
In reply to this post by Gary Lewis
I figured I needed to get the crank gear finished up so I would at least have a reference for the accessory drive setup. I started by taking the 2.5L gear and cutting away everything behind the front round area then reducing the diameter down close to the keyway. This gave me an OD of around 34mm. The ID of the 2.4L gear is 29.96mm so it had to be opened up. The issue is the gears are extremely hard, the 2.4L one appears to be powdered metal and the 2.5L one may also be, but it cuts a little better.

After the initial machining and checking against the cam gears for position, I realized that the 2.5L gear needed a quite thin outer face, but it could be stepped where the recess in the 2.4L gear is. I at least need the pilot and bolt circle for the crank pulley, the holes can be extended into the 2.4L gear to positively locate it on the adapter.

I had both pieces pretty well finished and did a trial fit, went together fairly well with a slight press fit. A quick check of position showed me I needed to move the gear out on the crank by about 1/4".




I first undercut the back of the outer section to fit into the recess on the 2.4L gear front face, then reduced the thickness until I had about a 1/8" flange at the front of the 2.4L gear. I had previously inserted it and taken an H drill through the M8X1.25 threaded holes to mark where the pulley bolts would end up. After doing this I put the two pieces together and discovered that I had a slight taper on the hub, but figured it would still go together and being tight shouldn't hurt, wrong answer, as I pressed them together I heard a nice "pop" and they slid fairly easily the rest of the way. Here is the, hopefully, finished hub and the now split gear. I do have another gear, I had gotten just in case.


Bill AKA "LOBO" Profile

"Getting old is inevitable, growing up is optional" Darth Vader 1986 F350 460 converted to MAF/SEFI, E4OD 12X3 1/2 rear brakes, traction loc 3:55 gear, 160 amp 3G alternator Wife's 2011 Flex Limited Daily Driver 2009 Flex Limited with factory tow package Project car 1986 Chrysler LeBaron convertible 2.2L Turbo II, modified A413

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Re: T2K-CAR

Gary Lewis
Administrator
Oops!  Powdered metal?  Glad you have a spare.

And I'm glad you are making progress.  Looking good!
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
Blue: 2015 F150 Platinum 4x4 SuperCrew wearing Blue Jeans & sporting a 3.5L EB & Max Tow
Big Blue: 1985 F250HD 4x4: 460/ZF5/3.55's, D60 w/Ox locker & 10.25 Sterling/Trutrac, Blue Top & Borgeson, & EEC-V MAF/SEFI

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Re: T2K-CAR

ArdWrknTrk
Administrator
In reply to this post by 85lebaront2
Ouch!  
How much taper are you finding in your lathe?
Do you know if it's bed twist or the headstock out of line?

That's some tricky fitting with not much to spare.
I'm sure you'll get it done in the end!  
 Jim,
Lil'Red is a '87 F250 HD, 4.10's, 1356 4x4, Zf-5, 3G, PMGR, Saginaw PS, desmogged with a Holley 80508 and Performer intake.
Too much other stuff to mention.
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Re: T2K-CAR

85lebaront2
Administrator
It was setup error, the two parts of the tool carriage have an angle scale for setting a taper cut. The bolts that lock it are only accessible with the upper section moved almost to where the screw comes out of the nut, like one more turn. I cleaned everything and set the scale to 0°, rechecked over the full travel and it is parallel now. Since I did a truing cut on the hub, I will not have to take as much out of the gear as before.
Bill AKA "LOBO" Profile

"Getting old is inevitable, growing up is optional" Darth Vader 1986 F350 460 converted to MAF/SEFI, E4OD 12X3 1/2 rear brakes, traction loc 3:55 gear, 160 amp 3G alternator Wife's 2011 Flex Limited Daily Driver 2009 Flex Limited with factory tow package Project car 1986 Chrysler LeBaron convertible 2.2L Turbo II, modified A413

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Re: T2K-CAR

85lebaront2
Administrator
Here is the (mostly) finished crank gear:


I need to take a little of the back of the "hub" and then will epoxy it into the 2.4L gear and drill and tap the 5 locations for the pulley bolts. With it lined up with the 2.4L cam gears, it will need a 0.256" spacer inside the hub so that when the bolt is tightened it will be a positive stop.
 
Bill AKA "LOBO" Profile

"Getting old is inevitable, growing up is optional" Darth Vader 1986 F350 460 converted to MAF/SEFI, E4OD 12X3 1/2 rear brakes, traction loc 3:55 gear, 160 amp 3G alternator Wife's 2011 Flex Limited Daily Driver 2009 Flex Limited with factory tow package Project car 1986 Chrysler LeBaron convertible 2.2L Turbo II, modified A413

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Re: T2K-CAR

Gary Lewis
Administrator
Sounds like you have a plan, Stan, but I'm not sure I follow it.  However, I'll look forward to the pics that explain it as I'm sure it'll work out.  
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
Blue: 2015 F150 Platinum 4x4 SuperCrew wearing Blue Jeans & sporting a 3.5L EB & Max Tow
Big Blue: 1985 F250HD 4x4: 460/ZF5/3.55's, D60 w/Ox locker & 10.25 Sterling/Trutrac, Blue Top & Borgeson, & EEC-V MAF/SEFI

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